[AT] Need some help, hard starting CR950 Briggs

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Tue Feb 15 08:14:31 PST 2022


There are 2 types of ether starting fluid.  20% and 50%

Cecil

On 2/15/2022 8:19 AM, Indiana Robinson wrote:
> Thanks guys...I need to use it this week and maybe next week. I'll be 
> trying some things, especially Steve's LP trick. I wonder where I put 
> those torches. :-)
> One thing on my side now is that it will be 50 degrees today and 60 
> tomorrow. I may not need anything extra. I do know that one problem is 
> the thick oil in the tank and it not having a way to clutch out the 
> pump for starting.
> I'll try to keep you posted.
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2022 at 9:59 AM Stuart Harner <stuart at harnerfarm.net 
> <mailto:stuart at harnerfarm.net>> wrote:
>
>     Remember the old fire triangle? Fuel-Air-Heat.
>
>     With the ever more restrictive regulations filtering down to the
>     smaller engines the manufacturers have had to lean out the mix as
>     far as possible. If you were to put a pyrometer on one my guess is
>     that at operating temperature they are running on the lean side of
>     peak.
>
>     As air temp drops it gets more dense but without a choke to
>     compensate the mix is just too lean to light off. To make things
>     worse they have taken all of the adjustments away from the end
>     user to prevent us from becoming criminals against the
>     regulations. I suspect it also makes the carbs easier and cheaper
>     to manufacture. If a bad one slips through, just replace it or the
>     engine because it is cheaper than figuring out the problem. We see
>     this in a lot more then carburetors.
>
>     Changing to a lighter hydraulic fluid will help make it easier to
>     spin the engine faster when pulling the starter. I am not sure if
>     that will help make a hotter spark or not considering it probably
>     has electronic ignition anyway. Faster starting RPM could help
>     with sucking in more fuel each stroke but then that means more air
>     to, so back to lean.
>
>     I suspect that Farmer's engine sputters once in a while is that
>     the raw fuel builds up enough in the cylinder to cause a rich
>     enough mixture to fire once or twice. Once that is burned off,
>     back to square one.
>
>     I am not sure that adjusting the valves would help any unless
>     there is a way to lengthen the duration. Taking out all the
>     backlash might cause the valve to open a fraction sooner, but once
>     everything is warm and expanded there is a risk of it not closing
>     fully and burning the valve or seat.
>
>     To get a more rich mixture for starting you could try to restrict
>     air (like the old choke plates did) or add fuel like a primer does.
>
>     I have a Knipco stye heater that will not light off at any air
>     temp unless I use both hands and cover as much of the air intake
>     as possible. It lights in less than a second and then runs fine. I
>     have tried different nozzles and moving the igniter around, but it
>     still needs less air to get going.
>
>     On the 1978 motorcycle I once had it was a victim of early
>     tampering with emissions on motorcycles. When new it would not
>     start on a cool day and it had a manual choke. I rigged up a way
>     to inject a little ether into the airbox that was buried under the
>     seat. Had to put 10,000 miles on that bike before it got over that
>     problem.
>
>     The idea of using an unlit torch to add a little fuel sounds like
>     a good one. Red Green would just slap a little piece of duct tape
>     on the air intake until it warms up.
>
>     Best of luck to Farmer getting this working.
>
>     Stuart
>
>
>     On 2/14/22 01:34, Greg Hass wrote:
>>     I have a JD Zero Turn with 27 hp. Briggs engine and electric
>>     start. Anything around 45 to 50 degrees and it just wouldn't
>>     start. It does not idle good either, but the book says that is
>>     because of emissions control. My brother has a Simplicity zero
>>     turn 3 years old and several times has tried to start it in 40
>>     degree and it just won't fire so it is not just my mower. Both
>>     engines have fixed jets so no adjustment is possible. It is
>>     possible other things could be wrong, but my only other idea is
>>     to make sure it has fresh WINTER blend gas.
>>            Greg Hass
>>
>>
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>>     On Sun, Feb 13, 2022 at 8:15 AM Moe Fretz <tubetester at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:tubetester at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>         Try this site, they should be able to help  you.
>>
>>         http://ppeten.com/forums/search.php?search_id=newposts
>>
>>
>>         On Sat, Feb 12, 2022 at 18:51 Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com
>>         <mailto:meulenms at gmx.com>> wrote:
>>
>>             Hi Farmer,
>>              Just a thought, my log splitter was hard to start in
>>             cold weather, until I changed the hydraulic fluid from
>>             the OEM  fluid to transmission fluid,a whole world of
>>             difference.
>>
>>             Mike M
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>             On 2/12/2022 9:24 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>             Hi farmer:  I'd have to think you've already been down
>>>             this road, but, I'll say for the record that I've had
>>>             pretty decent luck downloading manuals from the Briggs
>>>             site.  But I haven't done it lately, and it's always
>>>             20-year old stuff when I do.   The other thing I'll
>>>             mention is the good old unlit propane torch in the
>>>             intake trick.  That's my go-to when they're almost
>>>             trying to start.  There's spark and fuel but the modern
>>>             carburetors are set lean for emissions and it just seems
>>>             that the choke doesn't quite get the mixture rich enough.
>>>
>>>             Good luck,
>>>             Steve O.
>>>
>>>             On Sat, Feb 12, 2022 at 7:43 PM Indiana Robinson
>>>             <robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>             <mailto:robinson46176 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>                 We have a log splitter a couple of years old that
>>>                 has a OHV CR950 Briggs. It only has a few hours on
>>>                 it but has become quite hard to start (recoil
>>>                 start). It is way too recent for my knowledge
>>>                 base... It seems that most things are these days.
>>>                 Apparently the OHV Brigg's have a cam bump
>>>                 "compression relief" I also understand that there is
>>>                 an important valve adjustment procedure that can
>>>                 normally improve starting problems. We can't find a
>>>                 site that gives a clear and understandable
>>>                 explanation of the procedure.
>>>                 Does anyone know of a site with a clear description
>>>                 of how to do it? It will usually start if it is
>>>                 sitting in the sun and the temp is at least 50...
>>>                 Yesterday at 45 degrees it "ALMOST" started 837
>>>                 times... It keeps firing enough to keep you trying
>>>                 and trying...
>>>                 Thanks
>>>
>>>                 -- 
>>>                 -- 
>>>
>>>                 Francis Robinson
>>>                 aka "farmer"
>>>                 Central Indiana USA
>>>                 robinson46176 at gmail.com <mailto:robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>         -- 
>>         Moe Fretz
>>
>>         L’Orignal ON,
>>         Canada
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>
> -- 
> -- 
>
> Francis Robinson
> aka "farmer"
> Central Indiana USA
> robinson46176 at gmail.com <mailto:robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>
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