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<p>There are 2 types of ether starting fluid. 20% and 50% <br>
</p>
<p>Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/15/2022 8:19 AM, Indiana Robinson
wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAMe_8WX_xgUcvynae8oRxPn=pnXvjoyxSyJK7JbFu2-04W_nqw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div>Thanks guys...I need to use it this week and maybe next
week. I'll be trying some things, especially Steve's LP trick.
I wonder where I put those torches. :-) <br>
</div>
<div>One thing on my side now is that it will be 50 degrees
today and 60 tomorrow. I may not need anything extra. I do
know that one problem is the thick oil in the tank and it not
having a way to clutch out the pump for starting.</div>
<div>I'll try to keep you posted.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 14, 2022 at 9:59
AM Stuart Harner <<a href="mailto:stuart@harnerfarm.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">stuart@harnerfarm.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<p>Remember the old fire triangle? Fuel-Air-Heat.</p>
<p>With the ever more restrictive regulations filtering down
to the smaller engines the manufacturers have had to lean
out the mix as far as possible. If you were to put a
pyrometer on one my guess is that at operating temperature
they are running on the lean side of peak.</p>
<p>As air temp drops it gets more dense but without a choke
to compensate the mix is just too lean to light off. To
make things worse they have taken all of the adjustments
away from the end user to prevent us from becoming
criminals against the regulations. I suspect it also makes
the carbs easier and cheaper to manufacture. If a bad one
slips through, just replace it or the engine because it is
cheaper than figuring out the problem. We see this in a
lot more then carburetors.</p>
<p>Changing to a lighter hydraulic fluid will help make it
easier to spin the engine faster when pulling the starter.
I am not sure if that will help make a hotter spark or not
considering it probably has electronic ignition anyway.
Faster starting RPM could help with sucking in more fuel
each stroke but then that means more air to, so back to
lean.</p>
<p>I suspect that Farmer's engine sputters once in a while
is that the raw fuel builds up enough in the cylinder to
cause a rich enough mixture to fire once or twice. Once
that is burned off, back to square one.</p>
<p>I am not sure that adjusting the valves would help any
unless there is a way to lengthen the duration. Taking out
all the backlash might cause the valve to open a fraction
sooner, but once everything is warm and expanded there is
a risk of it not closing fully and burning the valve or
seat.</p>
<p>To get a more rich mixture for starting you could try to
restrict air (like the old choke plates did) or add fuel
like a primer does.</p>
<p>I have a Knipco stye heater that will not light off at
any air temp unless I use both hands and cover as much of
the air intake as possible. It lights in less than a
second and then runs fine. I have tried different nozzles
and moving the igniter around, but it still needs less air
to get going.</p>
<p>On the 1978 motorcycle I once had it was a victim of
early tampering with emissions on motorcycles. When new it
would not start on a cool day and it had a manual choke. I
rigged up a way to inject a little ether into the airbox
that was buried under the seat. Had to put 10,000 miles on
that bike before it got over that problem.</p>
<p>The idea of using an unlit torch to add a little fuel
sounds like a good one. Red Green would just slap a little
piece of duct tape on the air intake until it warms up.</p>
<p>Best of luck to Farmer getting this working.</p>
<p>Stuart<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div>On 2/14/22 01:34, Greg Hass wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">I have a JD Zero Turn with 27 hp. Briggs
engine and electric start. Anything around 45 to 50
degrees and it just wouldn't start. It does not idle
good either, but the book says that is because of
emissions control. My brother has a Simplicity zero turn
3 years old and several times has tried to start it in
40 degree and it just won't fire so it is not just my
mower. Both engines have fixed jets so no adjustment is
possible. It is possible other things could be wrong,
but my only other idea is to make sure it has fresh
WINTER blend gas.
<div> Greg Hass</div>
<div><br>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 13, 2022
at 8:15 AM Moe Fretz <<a
href="mailto:tubetester@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">tubetester@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div dir="auto">Try this site, they should be able
to help you. </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<div><a
href="http://ppeten.com/forums/search.php?search_id=newposts"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">http://ppeten.com/forums/search.php?search_id=newposts</a></div>
<br>
</div>
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<div><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Feb 12,
2022 at 18:51 Mike M <<a
href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">meulenms@gmx.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Hi Farmer,<br>
Just a thought, my log splitter was hard to
start in cold weather, until I changed the
hydraulic fluid from the OEM fluid to
transmission fluid,a whole world of
difference.<br>
<br>
Mike M</div>
<div><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 2/12/2022 9:24 PM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi farmer: I'd have to think
you've already been down this road, but,
I'll say for the record that I've had
pretty decent luck downloading manuals
from the Briggs site. But I haven't done
it lately, and it's always 20-year old
stuff when I do. The other thing I'll
mention is the good old unlit propane
torch in the intake trick. That's my
go-to when they're almost trying to
start. There's spark and fuel but the
modern carburetors are set lean for
emissions and it just seems that the choke
doesn't quite get the mixture rich enough.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Good luck,</div>
<div>Steve O.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat,
Feb 12, 2022 at 7:43 PM Indiana Robinson
<<a
href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>We have a log splitter a couple
of years old that has a OHV CR950
Briggs. It only has a few hours on
it but has become quite hard to
start (recoil start). It is way too
recent for my knowledge base... It
seems that most things are these
days. Apparently the OHV Brigg's
have a cam bump "compression relief"
I also understand that there is an
important valve adjustment procedure
that can normally improve starting
problems. We can't find a site that
gives a clear and understandable
explanation of the procedure.</div>
<div>Does anyone know of a site with a
clear description of how to do it?
It will usually start if it is
sitting in the sun and the temp is
at least 50... Yesterday at 45
degrees it "ALMOST" started 837
times... It keeps firing enough to
keep you trying and trying...<br>
</div>
<div>Thanks<br>
</div>
<div><br>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>-- <br>
<br>
Francis Robinson<br>
aka "farmer"<br>
Central Indiana USA<br>
<a
href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br>
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<div dir="ltr">Moe Fretz <br>
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<div>-- <br>
<br>
Francis Robinson<br>
aka "farmer"<br>
Central Indiana USA<br>
<a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br>
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