[AT] Questions on a 1953 John Deere M

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Wed Jul 7 08:01:04 PDT 2021


Steve:

I had 15-40 Mystic in my Ingersoll compressor with the 3-71 Detroit 
engine.  It started rattling when the outside temp got up to 80deg.  I 
changed it to straight 40W mystic and the rattling stopped.  This is why 
it is not recommended in the older engines as they run cooler than the 
late model ones.  If it was running at 190 It may have made a 
difference.  It usually runs at about 170 deg even in 100 deg heat.
Cecil

On 7/7/2021 8:56 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> Straight 30 is thinner than 15W-40 when the engine is at operating 
> temperature.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 7:48 AM hfleming <hfleming at moosebird.net 
> <mailto:hfleming at moosebird.net>> wrote:
>
>     Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil.  I suspect I will go
>     with 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already using it in the
>     72 IH 1300 I have, along with a 48 Ford 8N.  If oil pressure
>     becomes a problem will look at straight 30W.
>
>     Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find out.  I
>     do know the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder is damaged, so I
>     am going to have to deal with the shortly, along with the brakes
>     that barely work at the moment (oil soaked) and the front axle
>     pivot bushing that appear to no longer exist.
>
>     Thanks!
>
>     Howard
>
>
>     On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>     Seriously, farmer?  ;-)
>>     Well, if so, I'd say no.  One reason is that, once upon a time,
>>     full synth oils gained a reputation for creating leakers (from
>>     memory, not reliable).  The chemistry was not fully compatible
>>     with the elastomers used in the seals.  Here in the modern day
>>     you don't hear about that any more.  I don't know if the
>>     elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has changed.  If
>>     it's the modern seals that keep synth from leaking, then, I guess
>>     you don't want to expose old seals to it.
>>     And the best applications for the higher-cost full synth oils are
>>     those with real temperature extremes. It flows better at extreme
>>     cold temperatures, and it resists cooking at extreme high
>>     temperatures (like you find in modern turbocharged engines).
>>     SO
>>
>>     On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:21 PM Indiana Robinson
>>     <robinson46176 at gmail.com <mailto:robinson46176 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>         Hi Steve:
>>         I would be interested in your thoughts on using full
>>         synthetic oils in such an engine...
>>         The cost difference is actually minimal in the larger picture
>>         unless it is a big burner or leaker. My father used to joke
>>         that some of those old tractors with big oil filler openings
>>         needed them so that they could stop every round and quickly
>>         pour in more oil out of a milk can...  :-)
>>
>>         On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler
>>         <soffiler at gmail.com <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>             I would not use a thin oil in an old and presumably worn
>>             engine.  I think 15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great
>>             choice. Aside from the brands mentioned, you can also
>>             find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most places (like
>>             Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA, etc).  Then again, the
>>             benefit of straight-weight oil is that there's more oil
>>             in there vs multi-viscosity. The "viscosity improver"
>>             additives take up significant volume.  I'd still avoid
>>             thin stuff, climate dependent.  I still see straight SAE
>>             30 and 40 on the store shelves; haven't seen 10 or 20 in
>>             quite a while.
>>             SO
>>             SO
>>
>>             On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com
>>             <mailto:meulenms at gmx.com>> wrote:
>>
>>                 I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40. Pretty cheap at
>>                 Wally World or Rural King.
>>
>>                 Mike M
>>
>>                 On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller wrote:
>>>                 Awww yes, the old oil debate.
>>>                 Diesel oil is recommended because some of them have
>>>                 a sf rating which is better for your engine than the
>>>                 modern sj rating. Read the fine print on the back,
>>>                 if it has a sf rating it is better than anything
>>>                 available when it was new. If not I wouldn't use it.
>>>                 15w40 is what I use, but mostly because it is easy
>>>                 to find.
>>>                 -- 
>>>                   Henry Miller
>>>                 hank at millerfarm.com <mailto:hank at millerfarm.com>
>>>                 On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03, Howard Fleming wrote:
>>>
>>>                     Happy 4th all. Have some questions I hope you'll
>>>                     can help me with.
>>>                     Bought this home yesterday:
>>>                     Looking for general suggestions of things to
>>>                     check, and recommendations on oil (engine,
>>>                     transmission and hydraulic).
>>>                     So far, I have changed the oil, using 10w-20 oil
>>>                     to get it running and home.  I plan on switching
>>>                     to a diesel rated oil, what oil and rating would
>>>                     you recommend?  Manual calls for 10w in the
>>>                     winter, and 20w in the summer, but things have
>>>                     changed since then.
>>>                     While changing the engine oil filter, found that
>>>                     the lower and upper plates are missing, I have
>>>                     replacements for them on the way.
>>>                     Ignition switch needs to be replaced (or
>>>                     repaired), it is not supplying power to the
>>>                     coil, but otherwise is working.  Generator is
>>>                     charging the battery.
>>>                     Other than the ignition switch (and lights), and
>>>                     possibly the temperature gauge for the engine,
>>>                     everything appears to be working.
>>>                     Thanks,
>>>                     Howard
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>>
>>         -- 
>>         -- 
>>
>>         Francis Robinson
>>         aka "farmer"
>>         Central Indiana USA
>>         robinson46176 at gmail.com <mailto:robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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