[AT] Questions on a 1953 John Deere M

Wed Jul 7 06:56:05 PDT 2021

Straight 30 is thinner than 15W-40 when the engine is at operating
temperature.

SO

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 7:48 AM hfleming <hfleming at moosebird.net> wrote:

> Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil.  I suspect I will go with
> 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already using it in the 72 IH 1300 I
> have, along with a 48 Ford 8N.  If oil pressure becomes a problem will look
> at straight 30W.
>
> Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find out.  I do know
> the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder is damaged, so I am going to have
> to deal with the shortly, along with the brakes that barely work at the
> moment (oil soaked) and the front axle pivot bushing that appear to no
> longer exist.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Howard
>
>
> On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> Seriously, farmer?  ;-)
>
> Well, if so, I'd say no.  One reason is that, once upon a time, full synth
> oils gained a reputation for creating leakers (from memory, not reliable).
> The chemistry was not fully compatible with the elastomers used in the
> seals.  Here in the modern day you don't hear about that any more.  I don't
> know if the elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has changed.  If
> it's the modern seals that keep synth from leaking, then, I guess you don't
> want to expose old seals to it.
>
> And the best applications for the higher-cost full synth oils are those
> with real temperature extremes.  It flows better at extreme cold
> temperatures, and it resists cooking at extreme high temperatures (like you
> find in modern turbocharged engines).
>
> SO
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:21 PM Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve:
>> I would be interested in your thoughts on using full synthetic oils in
>> such an engine...
>> The cost difference is actually minimal in the larger picture unless it
>> is a big burner or leaker. My father used to joke that some of those old
>> tractors with big oil filler openings needed them so that they could stop
>> every round and quickly pour in more oil out of a milk can...  :-)
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would not use a thin oil in an old and presumably worn engine.  I
>>> think 15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great choice.  Aside from the brands
>>> mentioned, you can also find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most places
>>> (like Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA, etc).  Then again, the benefit of
>>> straight-weight oil is that there's more oil in there vs multi-viscosity.
>>> The "viscosity improver" additives take up significant volume.  I'd still
>>> avoid thin stuff, climate dependent.  I still see straight SAE 30 and 40 on
>>> the store shelves; haven't seen 10 or 20 in quite a while.
>>>
>>> SO
>>>
>>> SO
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40. Pretty cheap at Wally World or
>>>> Rural King.
>>>>
>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Awww yes, the old oil debate.
>>>>
>>>> Diesel oil is recommended because some of them have a sf rating which
>>>> is better for your engine than the modern sj rating. Read the fine print on
>>>> the back, if it has a sf rating it is better than anything available when
>>>> it was new. If not I wouldn't use it.
>>>>
>>>> 15w40 is what I use, but mostly because it is easy to find.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>   Henry Miller
>>>>   hank at millerfarm.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03, Howard Fleming wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Happy 4th all. Have some questions I hope you'll can help me with.
>>>>
>>>> Bought this home yesterday:
>>>>
>>>> Looking for general suggestions of things to check, and recommendations
>>>> on oil (engine, transmission and hydraulic).
>>>>
>>>> So far, I have changed the oil, using 10w-20 oil to get it running and
>>>> home.  I plan on switching to a diesel rated oil, what oil and rating would
>>>> you recommend?  Manual calls for 10w in the winter, and 20w in the summer,
>>>> but things have changed since then.
>>>>
>>>> While changing the engine oil filter, found that the lower and upper
>>>> plates are missing, I have replacements for them on the way.
>>>>
>>>> Ignition switch needs to be replaced (or repaired), it is not supplying
>>>> power to the coil, but otherwise is working.  Generator is charging the
>>>> battery.
>>>>
>>>> Other than the ignition switch (and lights), and possibly the
>>>> temperature gauge for the engine, everything appears to be working.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Howard
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>
>>
>> --
>> --
>>
>> Francis Robinson
>> aka "farmer"
>> Central Indiana USA
>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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