[AT] Questions on a 1953 John Deere M
toma at risingnet.net
toma at risingnet.net
Wed Jul 7 09:45:38 PDT 2021
Multigrade oil defaults to the lower number whether the engine does not get hot enough or it breaks down.
I would not take a chance on it
--
Sent from myMail for Android Wednesday, 07 July 2021, 08:01AM -07:00 from Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net :
>Steve:
>I had 15-40 Mystic in my Ingersoll compressor with the 3-71
> Detroit engine. It started rattling when the outside temp got up
> to 80deg. I changed it to straight 40W mystic and the rattling
> stopped. This is why it is not recommended in the older engines
> as they run cooler than the late model ones. If it was running at
> 190 It may have made a difference. It usually runs at about 170
> deg even in 100 deg heat.
>Cecil
>On 7/7/2021 8:56 AM, Stephen Offiler
> wrote:
>>Straight 30 is thinner than 15W-40 when the engine
>> is at operating temperature.
>>
>>SO
>>
>>
>>On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 7:48 AM
>> hfleming < hfleming at moosebird.net > wrote:
>>>Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil. I suspect
>>> I will go with 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already
>>> using it in the 72 IH 1300 I have, along with a 48 Ford
>>> 8N. If oil pressure becomes a problem will look at
>>> straight 30W.
>>>
>>>Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find
>>> out. I do know the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder
>>> is damaged, so I am going to have to deal with the
>>> shortly, along with the brakes that barely work at the
>>> moment (oil soaked) and the front axle pivot bushing that
>>> appear to no longer exist.
>>>Thanks!
>>>Howard
>>>
>>>On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>>>Seriously, farmer? ;-)
>>>>
>>>>Well, if so, I'd say no. One reason is that, once
>>>> upon a time, full synth oils gained a reputation for
>>>> creating leakers (from memory, not reliable). The
>>>> chemistry was not fully compatible with the elastomers
>>>> used in the seals. Here in the modern day you don't
>>>> hear about that any more. I don't know if the
>>>> elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has
>>>> changed. If it's the modern seals that keep synth
>>>> from leaking, then, I guess you don't want to expose
>>>> old seals to it.
>>>>
>>>>And the best applications for the higher-cost full
>>>> synth oils are those with real temperature extremes.
>>>> It flows better at extreme cold temperatures, and it
>>>> resists cooking at extreme high temperatures (like you
>>>> find in modern turbocharged engines).
>>>>
>>>>SO
>>>>
>>>>On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at
>>>> 12:21 PM Indiana Robinson < robinson46176 at gmail.com >
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>Hi Steve:
>>>>>I would be interested in your thoughts on using
>>>>> full synthetic oils in such an engine...
>>>>>The cost difference is actually minimal in the
>>>>> larger picture unless it is a big burner or
>>>>> leaker. My father used to joke that some of those
>>>>> old tractors with big oil filler openings needed
>>>>> them so that they could stop every round and
>>>>> quickly pour in more oil out of a milk can... :-)
>>>>>On Mon, Jul 5,
>>>>> 2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler < soffiler at gmail.com >
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>I would not use a thin oil in an
>>>>>> old and presumably worn engine. I think
>>>>>> 15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great choice.
>>>>>> Aside from the brands mentioned, you can also
>>>>>> find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most
>>>>>> places (like Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA,
>>>>>> etc). Then again, the benefit of
>>>>>> straight-weight oil is that there's more oil
>>>>>> in there vs multi-viscosity. The "viscosity
>>>>>> improver" additives take up
>>>>>> significant volume. I'd still avoid thin
>>>>>> stuff, climate dependent. I still see
>>>>>> straight SAE 30 and 40 on the store shelves;
>>>>>> haven't seen 10 or 20 in quite a while.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>SO
>>>>>>
>>>>>>SO
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Sun, Jul
>>>>>> 4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M < meulenms at gmx.com >
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40.
>>>>>>> Pretty cheap at Wally World or Rural King.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Mike M
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>Awww yes,
>>>>>>>> the old oil debate.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Diesel
>>>>>>>> oil is recommended because some of
>>>>>>>> them have a sf rating which is better
>>>>>>>> for your engine than the modern sj
>>>>>>>> rating. Read the fine print on the
>>>>>>>> back, if it has a sf rating it is
>>>>>>>> better than anything available when it
>>>>>>>> was new. If not I wouldn't use it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>15w40 is
>>>>>>>> what I use, but mostly because it is
>>>>>>>> easy to find.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>--
>>>>>>>> Henry Miller
>>>>>>>> hank at millerfarm.com
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03,
>>>>>>>> Howard Fleming wrote:
>>>>>>>>>Happy 4th all. Have some
>>>>>>>>> questions I hope you'll can help me
>>>>>>>>> with.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Bought this home yesterday:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Looking for general suggestions
>>>>>>>>> of things to check, and
>>>>>>>>> recommendations on oil (engine,
>>>>>>>>> transmission and hydraulic).
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>So far, I have changed the oil,
>>>>>>>>> using 10w-20 oil to get it running
>>>>>>>>> and home. I plan on switching to a
>>>>>>>>> diesel rated oil, what oil and
>>>>>>>>> rating would you recommend? Manual
>>>>>>>>> calls for 10w in the winter, and 20w
>>>>>>>>> in the summer, but things have
>>>>>>>>> changed since then.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>While changing the engine oil
>>>>>>>>> filter, found that the lower and
>>>>>>>>> upper plates are missing, I have
>>>>>>>>> replacements for them on the way.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Ignition switch needs to be
>>>>>>>>> replaced (or repaired), it is not
>>>>>>>>> supplying power to the coil, but
>>>>>>>>> otherwise is working. Generator is
>>>>>>>>> charging the battery.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Other than the ignition switch
>>>>>>>>> (and lights), and possibly the
>>>>>>>>> temperature gauge for the engine,
>>>>>>>>> everything appears to be working.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>>>>>Howard
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Attachments:
>>>>>>>>>* efmbhejchalfekdf.jpeg
>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>--
>>>>>--
>>>>>
>>>>>Francis Robinson
>>>>>aka "farmer"
>>>>>Central Indiana USA
>>>>>robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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