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<p>Steve:</p>
<p>I had 15-40 Mystic in my Ingersoll compressor with the 3-71
Detroit engine. It started rattling when the outside temp got up
to 80deg. I changed it to straight 40W mystic and the rattling
stopped. This is why it is not recommended in the older engines
as they run cooler than the late model ones. If it was running at
190 It may have made a difference. It usually runs at about 170
deg even in 100 deg heat.<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/7/2021 8:56 AM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAP6upcjaJGg+fJL5nLCOA4sFfXhzCSbGqfDrT_aQoqTvHiuB_A@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="ltr">Straight 30 is thinner than 15W-40 when the engine
is at operating temperature.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>SO</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 7:48 AM
hfleming <<a href="mailto:hfleming@moosebird.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">hfleming@moosebird.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div
style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana,Geneva,sans-serif">
<p>Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil. I suspect
I will go with 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already
using it in the 72 IH 1300 I have, along with a 48 Ford
8N. If oil pressure becomes a problem will look at
straight 30W.<br>
<br>
Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find
out. I do know the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder
is damaged, so I am going to have to deal with the
shortly, along with the brakes that barely work at the
moment (oil soaked) and the front axle pivot bushing that
appear to no longer exist.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Howard</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div>On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:</div>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding:0px
0.4em;border-left:2px solid rgb(16,16,255);margin:0px">
<div dir="ltr">Seriously, farmer? ;-)
<div> </div>
<div>Well, if so, I'd say no. One reason is that, once
upon a time, full synth oils gained a reputation for
creating leakers (from memory, not reliable). The
chemistry was not fully compatible with the elastomers
used in the seals. Here in the modern day you don't
hear about that any more. I don't know if the
elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has
changed. If it's the modern seals that keep synth
from leaking, then, I guess you don't want to expose
old seals to it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>And the best applications for the higher-cost full
synth oils are those with real temperature extremes.
It flows better at extreme cold temperatures, and it
resists cooking at extreme high temperatures (like you
find in modern turbocharged engines).</div>
<div> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at
12:21 PM Indiana Robinson <<a
href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Hi Steve:</div>
<div>I would be interested in your thoughts on using
full synthetic oils in such an engine...</div>
<div>The cost difference is actually minimal in the
larger picture unless it is a big burner or
leaker. My father used to joke that some of those
old tractors with big oil filler openings needed
them so that they could stop every round and
quickly pour in more oil out of a milk can... :-)</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Mon, Jul 5,
2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler <<a
href="mailto:soffiler@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">soffiler@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">I would not use a thin oil in an
old and presumably worn engine. I think
15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great choice.
Aside from the brands mentioned, you can also
find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most
places (like Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA,
etc). Then again, the benefit of
straight-weight oil is that there's more oil
in there vs multi-viscosity. The "viscosity
improver" additives take up
significant volume. I'd still avoid thin
stuff, climate dependent. I still see
straight SAE 30 and 40 on the store shelves;
haven't seen 10 or 20 in quite a while.</div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div> </div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Jul
4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M <<a
href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">meulenms@gmx.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40.
Pretty cheap at Wally World or Rural King.<br>
<br>
Mike M<br>
<br>
<div>On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller
wrote:</div>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding:0px
0.4em;border-left:2px solid
rgb(16,16,255);margin:0px">
<div style="font-family:Arial">Awww yes,
the old oil debate. </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial">Diesel
oil is recommended because some of
them have a sf rating which is better
for your engine than the modern sj
rating. Read the fine print on the
back, if it has a sf rating it is
better than anything available when it
was new. If not I wouldn't use it. </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial">15w40 is
what I use, but mostly because it is
easy to find. </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div
id="gmail-m_-75980844583658738gmail-m_5616827899536387956gmail-m_1727168744348615256gmail-m_-8301065807030119371sig11221025">
<div>-- </div>
<div> Henry Miller</div>
<div> <a
href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">hank@millerfarm.com</a></div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div>On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03,
Howard Fleming wrote:</div>
<blockquote
id="gmail-m_-75980844583658738gmail-m_5616827899536387956gmail-m_1727168744348615256gmail-m_-8301065807030119371qt">
<div>Happy 4th all. Have some
questions I hope you'll can help me
with.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Bought this home yesterday:</div>
<div><img moz-do-not-send="true"></div>
<div> </div>
<div>Looking for general suggestions
of things to check, and
recommendations on oil (engine,
transmission and hydraulic).</div>
<div> </div>
<div>So far, I have changed the oil,
using 10w-20 oil to get it running
and home. I plan on switching to a
diesel rated oil, what oil and
rating would you recommend? Manual
calls for 10w in the winter, and 20w
in the summer, but things have
changed since then.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>While changing the engine oil
filter, found that the lower and
upper plates are missing, I have
replacements for them on the way.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Ignition switch needs to be
replaced (or repaired), it is not
supplying power to the coil, but
otherwise is working. Generator is
charging the battery.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Other than the ignition switch
(and lights), and possibly the
temperature gauge for the engine,
everything appears to be working.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>Howard</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
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-- <br>
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>-- <br>
<br>
Francis Robinson<br>
aka "farmer"<br>
Central Indiana USA<br>
<a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br>
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