[AT] tractor electrical question
John Hall
jtchall at nc.rr.com
Thu Aug 26 14:09:55 PDT 2021
They list 2 coils, I got the 396546r93, its almost double and what was
in stock.
John
On 8/26/2021 9:08 AM, Jason wrote:
>
> The coil you should have gotten sb 396547r93. Which is a 12v internal
> resistor coil.
>
> It's unlikely if you have the right coil, that both old and new are bad.
>
> Which leads to condenser, wiring, or ignition switch
>
> Jason
>
> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 11:00 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com
> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid also. You would
> assume a new OEM coil to be good but who knows. All I know is it
> acts the same with both coils. I will note that the new coil had
> to be rotated 180 in the bracket to get it to hook up. The power
> is going in the plus side, just like schematic shows. Maybe they
> just put it in wrong at factory?
>
> John
>
> On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:
>> Generally most coils have a resistor before them to lower the
>> voltage so they don't burn up the points. Some applications have
>> a booster wire from the small terminal on the starter solenoid.
>> Since there is a voltage drop when cranking, this booster wire
>> temporarily raises the voltage to help during starting.
>>
>> If everything else is fine. A coil that fails as it warms up is a
>> coil getting close, to well, failing.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 10:22 PM Howard Pletcher
>> <hrpletch at gmail.com <mailto:hrpletch at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Is that the original coil?
>>
>> I'm not familiar with the 454, but in the truck world, most
>> coils are intended for 6V use. There is a resistor wire in
>> the harness that drops the voltage while the current is
>> flowing with the points closed. But there are also coils
>> intended for 12V use with no resistor wire. If that is not
>> the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.
>>
>> Since it seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably
>> run another wire from the ignition switch to the coil to
>> bypass any possible resistor wire.
>>
>> Howard
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com
>> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have found
>> is the
>> diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and is
>> tied in on this
>> particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side opposite
>> the alternator
>> is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>>
>> On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> > Maybe there’s an external resistor?
>> >
>> > Spencer
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
>> <jtchall at nc.rr.com <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Got what I hope is a simple question. On my IH 454
>> tractor, is the voltage going to the coil a constant 12V?
>> I'm having some issues with it running bad when it gets
>> hot (I've already replaced everything but the plug
>> wires). Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from
>> battery to the coil, the problem goes away. Take it off
>> problem comes back, put it back it goes away, take it
>> off, it comes back. So I am tracing the wiring but this
>> one isn't simple, new enough there are tons of gauges,
>> fuel solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check
>> voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is one
>> small terminal on starter solenoid that all read 12V if
>> the switch is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I
>> guess the pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop
>> to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the same. So
>> shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?
>> >>
>> >> John Hall
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>> --
>> Howard
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