[AT] tractor electrical question

Thu Aug 26 06:08:49 PDT 2021

If it were me , I would spend a little money on an electronic ign. and do
away with the points . That usually solves the problem 99% of the time .
The only problem with that is , if you ever forget and leave your switch on
, it will fry a lot of things .

On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 7:33 AM Aaron Dickinson <a_dickinson at att.net> wrote:

> That tractor is a little new for me, but are any of the safety switches
> inline with that supply. If the switch is a contact switch there could be
> corrosion on the contacts causing them to heat while running and possibly
> bleed off voltage? Our zero turn mower has a seat switch in the seat that
> literally gives you a hot seat.
>
> Aaron Dickinson
> Mason, MI
>
> *From:* John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
> *Sent:* ‎Thursday‎, ‎August‎ ‎26‎, ‎2021 ‎12‎:‎00‎ ‎AM
> *To:* Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid also. You would assume a
> new OEM coil to be good but who knows. All I know is it acts the same with
> both coils. I will note that the new coil had to be rotated 180 in the
> bracket to get it to hook up. The power is going in the plus side, just
> like schematic shows. Maybe they just put it in wrong at factory?
>
> John
>
> On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:
>
> Generally most coils have a resistor before them to lower the voltage so
> they don't burn up the points. Some applications have a booster wire from
> the small  terminal on the starter solenoid. Since there is a voltage drop
> when cranking, this booster wire temporarily raises the voltage to help
> during starting.
>
> If everything else is fine. A coil that fails as it warms up is a coil
> getting close, to well, failing.
>
> Jason
>
> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 10:22 PM Howard Pletcher <hrpletch at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Is that the original coil?
>>
>> I'm not familiar with the 454, but in the truck world, most coils are
>> intended for 6V use.  There is a resistor wire in the harness that drops
>> the voltage while the current is flowing with the points closed.  But there
>> are also coils intended for 12V use with no resistor wire.  If that is not
>> the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.
>>
>> Since it seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably run another
>> wire from the ignition switch to the coil to bypass any possible resistor
>> wire.
>>
>> Howard
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have found is the
>>> diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and is tied in on this
>>> particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side opposite the alternator
>>> is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.
>>>
>>> John Hall
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>> > Maybe there’s an external resistor?
>>> >
>>> > Spencer
>>> >
>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> >> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Got what I hope is a simple question. On my IH 454 tractor, is the
>>> voltage going to the coil a constant 12V? I'm having some issues with it
>>> running bad when it gets hot (I've already replaced everything but the plug
>>> wires). Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from battery to the
>>> coil, the problem goes away. Take it off problem comes back, put it back it
>>> goes away, take it off, it comes back. So I am tracing the wiring but this
>>> one isn't simple, new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel solenoids,
>>> safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check voltage at the coil, the fuel
>>> solenoid, and there is one small terminal on starter solenoid that all read
>>> 12V if the switch is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I guess the
>>> pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop to just under 6V, fuel
>>> solenoid stays the same. So shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?
>>> >>
>>> >> John Hall
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>>
>>
>> --
>> Howard
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