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They list 2 coils, I got the 396546r93, its almost double and what
was in stock.<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/26/2021 9:08 AM, Jason wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:CANbPaNGfw3cGgRNNP7z+_PnAiND7aZ7Wd9ftKbubihM4XHPh5A@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="auto">The coil you should have gotten sb 396547r93.
Which is a 12v internal resistor coil.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">It's unlikely if you have the right coil, that
both old and new are bad.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Which leads to condenser, wiring, or ignition
switch </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Jason</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 11:00 PM
John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div> There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid also.
You would assume a new OEM coil to be good but who knows.
All I know is it acts the same with both coils. I will note
that the new coil had to be rotated 180 in the bracket to
get it to hook up. The power is going in the plus side, just
like schematic shows. Maybe they just put it in wrong at
factory?<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<div>On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="auto">Generally most coils have a resistor
before them to lower the voltage so they don't burn up
the points. Some applications have a booster wire from
the small terminal on the starter solenoid. Since there
is a voltage drop when cranking, this booster wire
temporarily raises the voltage to help during starting.
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">If everything else is fine. A coil that
fails as it warms up is a coil getting close, to well,
failing.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Jason</div>
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<br>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021,
10:22 PM Howard Pletcher <<a
href="mailto:hrpletch@gmail.com" rel="noreferrer
noreferrer" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">hrpletch@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Is that the
original coil?</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">I'm not
familiar with the 454, but in the truck world,
most coils are intended for 6V use. There is a
resistor wire in the harness that drops the
voltage while the current is flowing with the
points closed. But there are also coils intended
for 12V use with no resistor wire. If that is not
the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Since it
seems to work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably
run another wire from the ignition switch to the
coil to bypass any possible resistor wire.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
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<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 25,
2021 at 11:08 PM John Hall <<a
href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" rel="noreferrer
noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have
found is the <br>
diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and
is tied in on this <br>
particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side
opposite the alternator <br>
is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
> Maybe there’s an external resistor?<br>
><br>
> Spencer<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
><br>
>> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall
<<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Got what I hope is a simple question. On
my IH 454 tractor, is the voltage going to the
coil a constant 12V? I'm having some issues with
it running bad when it gets hot (I've already
replaced everything but the plug wires). Found out
today that if I run a jumper wire from battery to
the coil, the problem goes away. Take it off
problem comes back, put it back it goes away, take
it off, it comes back. So I am tracing the wiring
but this one isn't simple, new enough there are
tons of gauges, fuel solenoids, safety switches,
etc. Anyway, if I check voltage at the coil, the
fuel solenoid, and there is one small terminal on
starter solenoid that all read 12V if the switch
is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I guess
the pts are closing) then the coil and starter
drop to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the
same. So shouldn't there always be 12V at the
coil?<br>
>><br>
>> John Hall<br>
>>
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-- <br>
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<div dir="ltr">Howard</div>
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