[AT] Drill bits for drilling our old tractor steel and iron.
Cecil Bearden
crbearden at copper.net
Fri Oct 25 12:20:21 PDT 2019
I have used masonry bits to drill out set screws many times. I
resharpen them to a left hand cut then use a reversible drill and many
times when the screw gets hot enough the bit hangs and the screw backs
out. For daily use I keep a set of Drill Hog bits. They have a
lifetime warranty and free replacement. I had a set of the USA made
bits that have a lifetime warranty and get a the Ag expositions. They
have a free replacement and free sharpening. However, when I had them
resharpened, they would not cut and also were very soft. Whoever
sharpened them got them to hot when grinding. I have had a couple of
the Drill Doctors, but gave up on trying to get them to sharpen a bit
correctly. I just use my eyeball... After 50 years, it is not too
hard. I do have a drill grinder for bits 3/4 and larger.
Cecil
On 10/25/2019 12:32 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> Excellent point regarding the masonry bits, Spencer. I had nearly
> forgotten, but we actually included a masonry bit in the Vice-Grip
> experiment I mentioned earlier. We used it straight from the
> package. It didn't look real sharp, but we also made no attempt to
> resharpen as that defeats our purpose. It made a few holes, requiring
> a lot of downforce and making plenty of heat in the process.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 1:13 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com
> <mailto:spencer at rdfarms.com>> wrote:
>
> I’ll defer to others, but I just use quality high speed bits, use
> them carefully, slowly, well oiled and kept as sharp as I can
> manage with a high end “Drill Doctor”.
>
> I use Cobalt also for the really tough stuff.
>
> If you don’t need to be very precise and just need to get a hole
> in the something that is very very hard, masonry bits actually
> work quite well. They have to be new or resharpened. But like I
> said I find the holes are not as precise. So don’t make
> pacemakers, aircraft or nuclear parts with them. People laugh at
> this until they follow my advice and try it. And then they come
> back and thank me.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 25, 2019, at 3:06 AM, deanvp at att.net
>> <mailto:deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The closest drill bits I have that I would call decent are a set
>> of reverse direction drill bits made by Irwin that are Cobalt.
>> I’ve used them for removing broken off bolts, etc. but even those
>> are not worth writing home about. On grade 5 bolts they are ok
>> but on really hard stuff they don’t cut the mustard. Cobalt drill
>> bits do have a negative and that is they are very brittle. But…
>> what brand and version of drill bits have you guys found that are
>> better than the average bear and work good on our old iron which
>> seems harder than the current stuff. I’m fed up with my multiple
>> indexes of drill bits that might work in wood if I was patient.
>> On steel a nail might work better. :-) I know its going to cost
>> and I’m prepared for that. What is the “Snap-On” of drill bits?
>> What have you had a long and successful relationship with.
>> However, I am convinced that no matter how good they are I will
>> break anything less than 1/8” So a set from 1/8 to ½” in 1/64^th
>> “ increments is about my style. Or as an alternative. What drill
>> bit sharpener do you recommend? I do have a lot of drill bits
>> that could be sharpened. Not sure some of them are worth it though.
>>
>> Dean VP
>>
>> Snohomish, WA 98290
>>
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