[AT] Drill bits for drilling our old tractor steel and iron.

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Fri Oct 25 12:20:21 PDT 2019


I have used masonry bits to drill out set screws many times.  I 
resharpen them to a left hand cut then use a reversible drill and many 
times when the screw gets hot enough the bit hangs and the screw backs 
out.    For daily use I keep a set of Drill Hog bits. They have a 
lifetime warranty and free replacement.  I had a set of the USA made 
bits that have a lifetime warranty and get a the Ag expositions.  They 
have a free replacement and free sharpening.  However, when I had them 
resharpened, they would not cut and also were very soft.   Whoever 
sharpened them got them to hot when grinding.  I have had a couple of 
the Drill Doctors, but gave up on trying to get them to sharpen a bit 
correctly. I just use my eyeball...  After 50 years, it is not too 
hard.  I do have a drill grinder for bits 3/4 and larger.
Cecil

On 10/25/2019 12:32 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> Excellent point regarding the masonry bits, Spencer.  I had nearly 
> forgotten, but we actually included a masonry bit in the Vice-Grip 
> experiment I mentioned earlier.  We used it straight from the 
> package.  It didn't look real sharp, but we also made no attempt to 
> resharpen as that defeats our purpose.  It made a few holes, requiring 
> a lot of downforce and making plenty of heat in the process.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 1:13 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com 
> <mailto:spencer at rdfarms.com>> wrote:
>
>     I’ll defer to others, but I just use quality high speed bits, use
>     them carefully, slowly, well oiled and kept as sharp as I can
>     manage with a high end “Drill Doctor”.
>
>     I use Cobalt also for the really tough stuff.
>
>     If you don’t need to be very precise and just need to get a hole
>     in the something that is very very hard, masonry bits actually
>     work quite well.   They have to be new or resharpened.  But like I
>     said I find the holes are not as precise.   So don’t make
>     pacemakers, aircraft or nuclear parts with them. People laugh at
>     this until they follow my advice and try it. And then they come
>     back and thank me.
>
>
>
>     Sent from my iPhone
>
>>     On Oct 25, 2019, at 3:06 AM, deanvp at att.net
>>     <mailto:deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>>
>>     
>>
>>     The closest drill bits I have that I would call decent are a set
>>     of reverse direction drill bits made by Irwin that are Cobalt. 
>>     I’ve used them for removing broken off bolts, etc. but even those
>>     are not worth writing home about.  On grade 5 bolts they are ok
>>     but on really hard stuff they don’t cut the mustard. Cobalt drill
>>     bits do have a negative and that is they are very brittle. But… 
>>     what brand and version of drill bits have you guys found that are
>>     better than the average bear and work good on our old iron which
>>     seems harder than the current stuff. I’m fed up with my multiple
>>     indexes of drill bits that might work in wood if I was patient.
>>     On steel a nail might work better. :-) I know its going to cost
>>     and I’m prepared for that. What is the “Snap-On” of drill bits? 
>>     What have you had a long and successful relationship with.
>>     However, I am convinced that no matter how good they are I will
>>     break anything less than 1/8”  So a set from 1/8 to ½” in 1/64^th
>>     “  increments is about my style. Or as an alternative. What drill
>>     bit sharpener do you recommend? I do have a lot of drill bits
>>     that could be sharpened. Not sure some of them are worth it though.
>>
>>     Dean VP
>>
>>     Snohomish, WA 98290
>>
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