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<p>I have used masonry bits to drill out set screws many times. I
resharpen them to a left hand cut then use a reversible drill and
many times when the screw gets hot enough the bit hangs and the
screw backs out. For daily use I keep a set of Drill Hog bits.
They have a lifetime warranty and free replacement. I had a set
of the USA made bits that have a lifetime warranty and get a the
Ag expositions. They have a free replacement and free
sharpening. However, when I had them resharpened, they would not
cut and also were very soft. Whoever sharpened them got them to
hot when grinding. I have had a couple of the Drill Doctors, but
gave up on trying to get them to sharpen a bit correctly. I just
use my eyeball... After 50 years, it is not too hard. I do have
a drill grinder for bits 3/4 and larger. <br>
Cecil<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/25/2019 12:32 PM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Excellent point regarding the masonry bits,
Spencer. I had nearly forgotten, but we actually included a
masonry bit in the Vice-Grip experiment I mentioned earlier. We
used it straight from the package. It didn't look real sharp,
but we also made no attempt to resharpen as that defeats our
purpose. It made a few holes, requiring a lot of downforce and
making plenty of heat in the process.
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<div>SO</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 1:13
PM Spencer Yost <<a href="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">spencer@rdfarms.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="auto">I’ll defer to others, but I just use quality
high speed bits, use them carefully, slowly, well oiled and
kept as sharp as I can manage with a high end “Drill
Doctor”.
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<div>I use Cobalt also for the really tough stuff.</div>
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<div>If you don’t need to be very precise and just need to
get a hole in the something that is very very hard,
masonry bits actually work quite well. They have to be
new or resharpened. But like I said I find the holes are
not as precise. So don’t make pacemakers, aircraft or
nuclear parts with them. People laugh at this until they
follow my advice and try it. And then they come back and
thank me.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Oct 25, 2019, at 3:06 AM, <a
href="mailto:deanvp@att.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">deanvp@att.net</a> wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">The closest drill bits I have
that I would call decent are a set of reverse
direction drill bits made by Irwin that are
Cobalt. I’ve used them for removing broken off
bolts, etc. but even those are not worth writing
home about. On grade 5 bolts they are ok but on
really hard stuff they don’t cut the mustard.
Cobalt drill bits do have a negative and that is
they are very brittle. But… what brand and
version of drill bits have you guys found that are
better than the average bear and work good on our
old iron which seems harder than the current
stuff. I’m fed up with my multiple indexes of
drill bits that might work in wood if I was
patient. On steel a nail might work better. :-) I
know its going to cost and I’m prepared for that.
What is the “Snap-On” of drill bits? What have
you had a long and successful relationship with.
However, I am convinced that no matter how good
they are I will break anything less than 1/8” So
a set from 1/8 to ½” in 1/64<sup>th “ </sup> increments
is about my style. Or as an alternative. What
drill bit sharpener do you recommend? I do have a
lot of drill bits that could be sharpened. Not
sure some of them are worth it though.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Dean VP</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Snohomish, WA 98290</p>
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