[AT] not antique but tractor related.
Indiana Robinson
robinson46176 at gmail.com
Mon Jul 22 08:02:07 PDT 2019
Hi Cecil:
I can offer only one bit of advice on this...
If you find yourself holding a sledge hammer, take a moment to look around
you for something cheap to smash...
.
On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:37 AM Ken Knierim <ken.knierim at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thinking out loud a bit here... do you know if the clutch is actually
> clicking in when it is supposed to? I had a problem many moons ago where I
> replaced a compressor clutch and didn't get the spacing right when I put it
> back together. The clutch would not click reliably but once it pulled in,
> things worked OK until it needed to cycle again. Clutch wear, voltage
> dropout in the harness, heat, mechanical spacing wherever the compressor
> stops, battery voltage all play into whether the magnetic clutch has enough
> strength to start the engagement process. The magnetic fields drop off at
> the square of the distance so they're not real strong at the start of the
> engagement but once they get closer, they generate a lot of force.
>
> Can you actually see the clutch end of the compressor? I don't know how
> this beast is set up for accessibility. Is this something you could try
> giving it a tap when it's not engaging and see if it works? Giving the
> clutch a little "encouragement" to engage helped me find the issue when I
> screwed up the clutch replacement...
>
> Just my $0.02
>
> Ken in AZ
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 5:18 AM Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Hose was not kinked, and it was on the ground for a few minutes. The
>> blast of gas wa over 6 ft from the condenser. I am pretty sure the
>> condenser is clean as I blow it out daily. This problem starts when the
>> tractor has been sitting in the hot sun not running and then started up...
>> When the evaporator is hot and not been used.... I have been looking at
>> the aftermarket parts, and there are 2 different types of upgrades for Hew
>> Holland Air conditioning switches. There is an electronic one and then the
>> old fashioned bulb type. I ordered the electronic one from Amazon, it was
>> the same price as Tractor parts asap, but free shipping....
>> Cecil
>> On 7/22/2019 6:39 AM, bloomis at charter.net wrote:
>>
>> First the symptoms sound like a switch or clutch opening they way it
>> works OK then just stops. Dirty evap filters will cause the same symptoms
>> as no load which could have caused the LP switch to open if it was low on
>> refrigerant. Or even the evaporator to ice over regardless of how hot. Not
>> likely but possible.
>>
>> Cecil, when you say the condenser dropped to the ground do you mean you
>> had it propped somewhere and it slipped off and fell all while being
>> connected by hoses? Then a blast of gas? Did a hose kink at that time
>> creating a restriction and over pressure? Kink a tube on the condenser? As
>> to Spencer’s suggestions, a plugged condenser can certainly be a
>> possibility. Unless you can see through it well you may not be cleaning it
>> deep enough. Not anything you’re doing, it’s the design. Fin spacing and
>> depth get to the point where dirt, and again as Spencer stated add a bit of
>> oil or moisture and you wind up with baked on cement that really can’t be
>> cleaned. I pulled a condenser out of an ice machine at a soul food place
>> that was caked with grease and flour. Took it to a self car wash and the
>> hot water and soap along with condenser cleaner didn’t touch it. Replaced
>> the leased machine. But that is more likely to cause constant issues and
>> not intermittent cut outs. Which again points to electrical. A PITA for
>> sure and I get why you’re not too keen on doing in heat and humidity. Kicks
>> the crap out of me anymore working in that.
>>
>> Brad.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Cecil Bearden
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2019 8:08 PM
>> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [AT] not antique but tractor related.
>>
>>
>>
>> Filters were the evaporator intake filters. I have to blow out the
>> condensor sometimes 4 times a day. Especially if baling bluestem hay when
>> it has gone to seed. I forgot to mention that when I had to problem the
>> other afternoon, the tractor was runnin with the A/C on and I pulled the
>> condensor and the hyd cooler out of the rack in front of the radiator to
>> clean off the usual trash. The condensor dropped down on the ground and
>> after a few minutes while I was cleaning the radiator, there was a blast of
>> freon from the back of the engine like a popoff valve blowing off. I shut
>> off the A/C ASAP. I added a little Freon when I found the plugged
>> filters. The problem seems to start when I start up in the afternoon with
>> a hot evaporator. As I said there are a bunch of New Holland and some of
>> the last Ford tractors that have a switch installed to turn on the
>> compressor.
>>
>> A thought occurred that it might be a circuit breaker that is a thermal
>> type and the electric load compounded with the heat of the interior might
>> be causing the breaker to open. I chased a blower problem like this for 3
>> months and $300 parts before I found the circuit breaker and replaced it
>> with a fuse. It worked fine with the heater, but the A/C would load the
>> breaker...
>> Cecil
>>
>> On 7/21/2019 9:48 PM, bradloomis at charter.net wrote:
>>
>> If it’s that hot and cutting out on a HP switch, it could be actual high
>> pressure. I’d be leery of bypassing a HP safety. Is there a possibility of
>> non-condensables in the system? Of course that would mean you’ve had the
>> system open or it has run in a vacuum with a leak. I never did automotive
>> A/C only commercial and industrial refrigeration. In commercial 134a does
>> not do well with dirty condensers. Can’t tell you home many compressors
>> I’ve replaced on beverage coolers like every convenience store in the world
>> has because the condensers suck a zillion tons of dust and lint a day. R12
>> would tolerate periods of high discharge way better than 134a. It doesn’t
>> do well in my vehicles either. If it gets really hot as California can, any
>> extra load on the engine, be it my VW diesel or my truck, you can tell the
>> A/C output drops 10-20°. Temporary, but noticeable on a really hot day.
>>
>> Are the air filters you speak of on the evaporator or condenser? Clean
>> your condenser, again. Or you have an electrical issue that is causing
>> something to open, the clutch, a safety, overload. Harder to track for sure
>> as you’d have to ohm those items when the A/C quits while it’s hot.
>>
>> Best I can think of.
>>
>> Brad
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Cecil Bearden
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2019 7:32 PM
>> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [AT] not antique but tractor related.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have worked on vehicle air conditioning systems since I was 13 yrs
>> old. That is about 52 years. I have seen a lot of crazy problems and
>> fixed every one that I was asked to work on. Having said that, I am
>> stumped. The TS110 money pit has always had a great air conditioner. a
>> couple of weeks ago I was cutting hay in a field a little ways from home,
>> so I had the atv to travel back and forth in case of breakdown, etc... I
>> baled for about 3 hours, then stopped for lunch. I returned and started
>> the tractor and noted the a/c was not working. The compressor was not
>> turning. I tried many different thing including bypassing the low pressure
>> cutout that had been replaced a day earlier. It finally started working
>> after I had the doors open to the wind and the interior of the cab cooled
>> off. This took about an hour. It worked fine. I put it in the shed. 2
>> days later I had to bale another field and got started about 1pm. It was
>> hot and the A/c would work for about 2 or 3 minutes then quit for 10 to 15
>> then run just a little then quit again. I spent the next 3 hours in a
>> 95deg greenhouse. I spent last Friday morning checking the freon levels
>> and the switch connections. I found the air filters were really badly
>> plugged. I found the only ones were 65 miles away and got them. Without
>> the filters the A/C worked fine and had the correct pressures for a R134
>> system. Today I got started baling about 10 am and baled until 5pm and
>> only once was it blowing not real cold, but other wise worked fine...
>> Later this evening it was starting to rain and I went to back it into the
>> shed, the interior of the cab was hotter than a 2 dollar pistol. The A/C
>> would not blow anything but hot air. The heater does not work on this so,
>> it is not heater hoses. When the interior is hot, the system will not get
>> started.... I am thinking a high pressure cutout switch. I really hat
>> to bypass things, but I have seen so many NH tractors at sales of this
>> vintage that have an extra switch in the cab for turning on the A/C clutch,
>> I think maybe it is a design defect as there are so many...... Anyone had
>> any experience like this???
>> Cecil
>>
>>
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--
--
Francis Robinson
aka "farmer"
Central Indiana USA
robinson46176 at gmail.com
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