[AT] not antique but tractor related.

Mon Jul 22 07:37:13 PDT 2019

Thinking out loud a bit here... do you know if the clutch is actually
clicking in when it is supposed to? I had a problem many moons ago where I
replaced a compressor clutch and didn't get the spacing right when I put it
back together. The clutch would not click reliably but once it pulled in,
things worked OK until it needed to cycle again. Clutch wear, voltage
dropout in the harness, heat, mechanical spacing wherever the compressor
stops, battery voltage all play into whether the magnetic clutch has enough
strength to start the engagement process. The magnetic fields drop off at
the square of the distance so they're not real strong at the start of the
engagement but once they get closer, they generate a lot of force.

Can you actually see the clutch end of the compressor? I don't know how
this beast is set up for accessibility. Is this something you could try
giving it a tap when it's not engaging and see if it works? Giving the
clutch a little "encouragement" to engage helped me find the issue when I
screwed up the clutch replacement...

Just my $0.02

Ken in AZ

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 5:18 AM Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:

> Hose was not kinked, and it was on the ground for a few minutes.  The
> blast of gas wa over 6 ft from the condenser.   I am pretty sure the
> condenser is clean as I blow it out daily.  This problem starts when the
> tractor has been sitting in the hot sun not running and then started up...
> When the evaporator is hot and not been used....  I have been looking at
> the aftermarket parts, and there are 2 different types of upgrades for Hew
> Holland Air conditioning switches.  There is an electronic one and then the
> old fashioned bulb type.  I ordered the electronic one from Amazon, it was
> the same price as Tractor parts asap, but free shipping....
> Cecil
> On 7/22/2019 6:39 AM, bloomis at charter.net wrote:
>
> First the symptoms sound like a switch or clutch opening they way it works
> OK then just stops. Dirty evap filters will cause the same symptoms as no
> load which could have caused the LP switch to open if it was low on
> refrigerant. Or even the evaporator to ice over regardless of how hot. Not
> likely but possible.
>
> Cecil, when you say the condenser dropped to the ground do you mean you
> had it propped somewhere and it slipped off and fell all while being
> connected by hoses? Then a blast of gas? Did a hose kink at that time
> creating a restriction and over pressure? Kink a tube on the condenser? As
> to Spencer’s suggestions, a plugged condenser can certainly be a
> possibility. Unless you can see through it well you may not be cleaning it
> deep enough. Not anything you’re doing, it’s the design. Fin spacing and
> depth get to the point where dirt, and again as Spencer stated add a bit of
> oil or moisture and you wind up with baked on cement that really can’t be
> cleaned. I pulled a condenser out of an ice machine at a soul food place
> that was caked with grease and flour. Took it to a self car wash and the
> hot water and soap along with condenser cleaner didn’t touch it. Replaced
> the leased machine. But that is more likely to cause constant issues and
> not intermittent cut outs. Which again points to electrical. A PITA for
> sure and I get why you’re not too keen on doing in heat and humidity. Kicks
> the crap out of me anymore working in that.
>
> Brad.
>
>
>
> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Cecil Bearden
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2019 8:08 PM
> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] not antique but tractor related.
>
>
>
> Filters were the evaporator intake filters.  I have to blow out the
> condensor sometimes 4 times a day.  Especially if baling bluestem hay when
> it has gone to seed.  I forgot to mention that when I had to problem the
> other afternoon, the tractor was runnin with the A/C on and I pulled the
> condensor and the hyd cooler out of the rack in front of the radiator to
> clean off the usual trash.  The condensor dropped down on the ground and
> after a few minutes while I was cleaning the radiator, there was a blast of
> freon from the back of the engine like a popoff valve blowing off.  I shut
> off the A/C ASAP.  I added a little Freon when I found the plugged
> filters.  The problem seems to start when I start up in the afternoon with
> a hot evaporator.  As I said there are a bunch of New Holland and some of
> the last Ford tractors that have a switch installed to turn on the
> compressor.
>
> A thought occurred that it might be a circuit breaker that is a thermal
> type and the electric  load compounded with the heat of the interior might
> be causing the breaker to open.  I chased a blower problem like this for 3
> months and $300 parts before I found the circuit breaker and replaced it
> with a fuse.  It worked fine with the heater, but the A/C would load the
> breaker...
> Cecil
>
> On 7/21/2019 9:48 PM, bradloomis at charter.net wrote:
>
> If it’s that hot and cutting out on a HP switch, it could be actual high
> pressure. I’d be leery of bypassing a HP safety. Is there a possibility of
> non-condensables in the system? Of course that would mean you’ve had the
> system open or it has run in a vacuum with a leak. I never did automotive
> A/C only commercial and industrial refrigeration. In commercial 134a does
> not do well with dirty condensers. Can’t tell you home many compressors
> I’ve replaced on beverage coolers like every convenience store in the world
> has because the condensers suck a zillion tons of dust and lint a day. R12
> would tolerate periods of high discharge way better than 134a. It doesn’t
> do well in my vehicles either. If it gets really hot as California can, any
> extra load on the engine, be it my VW diesel or my truck, you can tell the
> A/C output drops 10-20°. Temporary, but noticeable on a really hot day.
>
> Are the air filters you speak of on the evaporator or condenser? Clean
> your condenser, again. Or you have an electrical issue that is causing
> something to open, the clutch, a safety, overload. Harder to track for sure
> as you’d have to ohm those items when the A/C quits while it’s hot.
>
> Best I can think of.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Cecil Bearden
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2019 7:32 PM
> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] not antique but tractor related.
>
>
>
> I have worked on vehicle air conditioning systems since I was 13 yrs old.
> That is about 52 years.  I have seen a lot of crazy problems and fixed
> every one that I was asked to work on.  Having said that, I am stumped.
> The TS110 money pit has always had a great air conditioner.  a couple of
> weeks ago I was cutting hay in a field a little ways from home, so I had
> the atv to travel back and forth in case of breakdown, etc...  I baled for
> about 3 hours, then stopped for lunch.  I returned and started the tractor
> and noted the a/c was not working.  The compressor was not turning.  I
> tried many different thing including bypassing the low pressure cutout that
> had been replaced a day earlier.  It finally started working after I had
> the doors open to the wind and the interior of the cab cooled off.  This
> took about an hour.  It worked fine.  I put it in the shed.  2 days later I
> had to bale another field and got started about 1pm.  It was hot and the
> A/c would work for about 2 or 3 minutes then quit for 10 to 15 then run
> just a little then quit again.  I spent the next 3 hours in a 95deg
> greenhouse.    I spent last Friday morning checking the freon levels and
> the switch connections.  I found the air filters were really badly
> plugged.  I found the only ones were 65 miles away and got them.  Without
> the filters the A/C worked fine and had the correct pressures for a R134
> system.   Today I got started baling about 10 am and baled until 5pm and
> only once was it blowing not real cold, but other wise worked fine...
> Later this evening it was starting to rain and I went to back it into the
> shed, the interior of the cab was hotter  than a 2 dollar pistol.  The A/C
> would not blow anything but hot air.  The heater does not work on this so,
> it is not heater hoses.  When the interior is hot, the system will not get
> started....    I am thinking a high pressure cutout switch.  I really hat
> to bypass things, but I have seen so many NH tractors at sales of this
> vintage that have an extra switch in the cab for turning on the A/C clutch,
> I think maybe it is a design defect as there are so many......  Anyone had
> any experience like this???
> Cecil
>
>
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