<div dir="ltr"><div>Hi Cecil:</div><div>I can offer only one bit of advice on this...</div><div>If you find yourself holding a sledge hammer, take a moment to look around you for something cheap to smash...</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>.<br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 10:37 AM Ken Knierim <<a href="mailto:ken.knierim@gmail.com">ken.knierim@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Thinking out loud a bit here... do you know if the clutch is actually clicking in when it is supposed to? I had a problem many moons ago where I replaced a compressor clutch and didn't get the spacing right when I put it back together. The clutch would not click reliably but once it pulled in, things worked OK until it needed to cycle again. Clutch wear, voltage dropout in the harness, heat, mechanical spacing wherever the compressor stops, battery voltage all play into whether the magnetic clutch has enough strength to start the engagement process. The magnetic fields drop off at the square of the distance so they're not real strong at the start of the engagement but once they get closer, they generate a lot of force. <div><br></div><div>Can you actually see the clutch end of the compressor? I don't know how this beast is set up for accessibility. Is this something you could try giving it a tap when it's not engaging and see if it works? Giving the clutch a little "encouragement" to engage helped me find the issue when I screwed up the clutch replacement...</div><div><br></div><div>Just my $0.02</div><div><br></div><div>Ken in AZ</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 5:18 AM Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net" target="_blank">crbearden@copper.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>Hose was not kinked, and it was on the ground for a few minutes.
The blast of gas wa over 6 ft from the condenser. I am pretty
sure the condenser is clean as I blow it out daily. This problem
starts when the tractor has been sitting in the hot sun not
running and then started up... When the evaporator is hot and not
been used.... I have been looking at the aftermarket parts, and
there are 2 different types of upgrades for Hew Holland Air
conditioning switches. There is an electronic one and then the
old fashioned bulb type. I ordered the electronic one from
Amazon, it was the same price as Tractor parts asap, but free
shipping....<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="gmail-m_-1759935963078113669gmail-m_-1705453023226946849moz-cite-prefix">On 7/22/2019 6:39 AM,
<a class="gmail-m_-1759935963078113669gmail-m_-1705453023226946849moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:bloomis@charter.net" target="_blank">bloomis@charter.net</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div class="gmail-m_-1759935963078113669gmail-m_-1705453023226946849WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">First the
symptoms sound like a switch or clutch opening they way it
works OK then just stops. Dirty evap filters will cause the
same symptoms as no load which could have caused the LP
switch to open if it was low on refrigerant. Or even the
evaporator to ice over regardless of how hot. Not likely but
possible.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Cecil, when
you say the condenser dropped to the ground do you mean you
had it propped somewhere and it slipped off and fell all
while being connected by hoses? Then a blast of gas? Did a
hose kink at that time creating a restriction and over
pressure? Kink a tube on the condenser? As to Spencer’s
suggestions, a plugged condenser can certainly be a
possibility. Unless you can see through it well you may not
be cleaning it deep enough. Not anything you’re doing, it’s
the design. Fin spacing and depth get to the point where
dirt, and again as Spencer stated add a bit of oil or
moisture and you wind up with baked on cement that really
can’t be cleaned. I pulled a condenser out of an ice machine
at a soul food place that was caked with grease and flour.
Took it to a self car wash and the hot water and soap along
with condenser cleaner didn’t touch it. Replaced the leased
machine. But that is more likely to cause constant issues
and not intermittent cut outs. Which again points to
electrical. A PITA for sure and I get why you’re not too
keen on doing in heat and humidity. Kicks the crap out of me
anymore working in that. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Brad.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
<div>
<div style="border-color:rgb(225,225,225) currentcolor currentcolor;border-style:solid none none;border-width:1pt medium medium;padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span style="color:windowtext"> AT
<a class="gmail-m_-1759935963078113669gmail-m_-1705453023226946849moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank"><at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com></a> <b>On
Behalf Of </b>Cecil Bearden<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, July 21, 2019 8:08 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="gmail-m_-1759935963078113669gmail-m_-1705453023226946849moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] not antique but tractor
related.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p>Filters were the evaporator intake filters. I have to blow
out the condensor sometimes 4 times a day. Especially if
baling bluestem hay when it has gone to seed. I forgot to
mention that when I had to problem the other afternoon, the
tractor was runnin with the A/C on and I pulled the condensor
and the hyd cooler out of the rack in front of the radiator to
clean off the usual trash. The condensor dropped down on the
ground and after a few minutes while I was cleaning the
radiator, there was a blast of freon from the back of the
engine like a popoff valve blowing off. I shut off the A/C
ASAP. I added a little Freon when I found the plugged
filters. The problem seems to start when I start up in the
afternoon with a hot evaporator. As I said there are a bunch
of New Holland and some of the last Ford tractors that have a
switch installed to turn on the compressor. <u></u><u></u></p>
<p>A thought occurred that it might be a circuit breaker that is
a thermal type and the electric load compounded with the heat
of the interior might be causing the breaker to open. I
chased a blower problem like this for 3 months and $300 parts
before I found the circuit breaker and replaced it with a
fuse. It worked fine with the heater, but the A/C would load
the breaker... <br>
Cecil<u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 7/21/2019 9:48 PM, <a href="mailto:bradloomis@charter.net" target="_blank">bradloomis@charter.net</a> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">If it’s
that hot and cutting out on a HP switch, it could be
actual high pressure. I’d be leery of bypassing a HP
safety. Is there a possibility of non-condensables in the
system? Of course that would mean you’ve had the system
open or it has run in a vacuum with a leak. I never did
automotive A/C only commercial and industrial
refrigeration. In commercial 134a does not do well with
dirty condensers. Can’t tell you home many compressors
I’ve replaced on beverage coolers like every convenience
store in the world has because the condensers suck a
zillion tons of dust and lint a day. R12 would tolerate
periods of high discharge way better than 134a. It doesn’t
do well in my vehicles either. If it gets really hot as
California can, any extra load on the engine, be it my VW
diesel or my truck, you can tell the A/C output drops
10-20°. Temporary, but noticeable on a really hot day. </span><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Are the
air filters you speak of on the evaporator or condenser?
Clean your condenser, again. Or you have an electrical
issue that is causing something to open, the clutch, a
safety, overload. Harder to track for sure as you’d have
to ohm those items when the A/C quits while it’s hot. </span><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Best I can
think of.</span><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext">Brad</span><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:windowtext"> </span><u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div style="border-color:rgb(225,225,225) currentcolor currentcolor;border-style:solid none none;border-width:1pt medium medium;padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span style="color:windowtext"> AT <a href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank"><at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com></a>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Cecil Bearden<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, July 21, 2019 7:32 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] not antique but tractor
related.</span><u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have worked on vehicle air conditioning
systems since I was 13 yrs old. That is about 52 years. I
have seen a lot of crazy problems and fixed every one that I
was asked to work on. Having said that, I am stumped. The
TS110 money pit has always had a great air conditioner. a
couple of weeks ago I was cutting hay in a field a little
ways from home, so I had the atv to travel back and forth in
case of breakdown, etc... I baled for about 3 hours, then
stopped for lunch. I returned and started the tractor and
noted the a/c was not working. The compressor was not
turning. I tried many different thing including bypassing
the low pressure cutout that had been replaced a day
earlier. It finally started working after I had the doors
open to the wind and the interior of the cab cooled off.
This took about an hour. It worked fine. I put it in the
shed. 2 days later I had to bale another field and got
started about 1pm. It was hot and the A/c would work for
about 2 or 3 minutes then quit for 10 to 15 then run just a
little then quit again. I spent the next 3 hours in a 95deg
greenhouse. I spent last Friday morning checking the
freon levels and the switch connections. I found the air
filters were really badly plugged. I found the only ones
were 65 miles away and got them. Without the filters the
A/C worked fine and had the correct pressures for a R134
system. Today I got started baling about 10 am and baled
until 5pm and only once was it blowing not real cold, but
other wise worked fine... Later this evening it was
starting to rain and I went to back it into the shed, the
interior of the cab was hotter than a 2 dollar pistol. The
A/C would not blow anything but hot air. The heater does
not work on this so, it is not heater hoses. When the
interior is hot, the system will not get started.... I am
thinking a high pressure cutout switch. I really hat to
bypass things, but I have seen so many NH tractors at sales
of this vintage that have an extra switch in the cab for
turning on the A/C clutch, I think maybe it is a design
defect as there are so many...... Anyone had any experience
like this???<br>
Cecil<br>
<br>
<br>
<u></u><u></u></p>
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</blockquote></div><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div>-- <br><br>Francis Robinson<br>aka "farmer"<br>Central Indiana USA<br><a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br></div></div></div>