[AT] not antique but tractor related.

Mon Jul 22 05:18:32 PDT 2019

Hose was not kinked, and it was on the ground for a few minutes. The 
blast of gas wa over 6 ft from the condenser.   I am pretty sure the 
condenser is clean as I blow it out daily.  This problem starts when the 
tractor has been sitting in the hot sun not running and then started 
up...  When the evaporator is hot and not been used....  I have been 
looking at the aftermarket parts, and there are 2 different types of 
upgrades for Hew Holland Air conditioning switches.  There is an 
electronic one and then the old fashioned bulb type.  I ordered the 
electronic one from Amazon, it was the same price as Tractor parts asap, 
but free shipping....
Cecil

On 7/22/2019 6:39 AM, bloomis at charter.net wrote:
>
> First the symptoms sound like a switch or clutch opening they way it 
> works OK then just stops. Dirty evap filters will cause the same 
> symptoms as no load which could have caused the LP switch to open if 
> it was low on refrigerant. Or even the evaporator to ice over 
> regardless of how hot. Not likely but possible.
>
> Cecil, when you say the condenser dropped to the ground do you mean 
> you had it propped somewhere and it slipped off and fell all while 
> being connected by hoses? Then a blast of gas? Did a hose kink at that 
> time creating a restriction and over pressure? Kink a tube on the 
> condenser? As to Spencer’s suggestions, a plugged condenser can 
> certainly be a possibility. Unless you can see through it well you may 
> not be cleaning it deep enough. Not anything you’re doing, it’s the 
> design. Fin spacing and depth get to the point where dirt, and again 
> as Spencer stated add a bit of oil or moisture and you wind up with 
> baked on cement that really can’t be cleaned. I pulled a condenser out 
> of an ice machine at a soul food place that was caked with grease and 
> flour. Took it to a self car wash and the hot water and soap along 
> with condenser cleaner didn’t touch it. Replaced the leased machine. 
> But that is more likely to cause constant issues and not intermittent 
> cut outs. Which again points to electrical. A PITA for sure and I get 
> why you’re not too keen on doing in heat and humidity. Kicks the crap 
> out of me anymore working in that.
>
> Brad.
>
> *From:*AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Cecil 
> Bearden
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2019 8:08 PM
> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] not antique but tractor related.
>
> Filters were the evaporator intake filters.  I have to blow out the 
> condensor sometimes 4 times a day.  Especially if baling bluestem hay 
> when it has gone to seed.  I forgot to mention that when I had to 
> problem the other afternoon, the tractor was runnin with the A/C on 
> and I pulled the condensor and the hyd cooler out of the rack in front 
> of the radiator to clean off the usual trash.  The condensor dropped 
> down on the ground and after a few minutes while I was cleaning the 
> radiator, there was a blast of freon from the back of the engine like 
> a popoff valve blowing off.  I shut off the A/C ASAP.  I added a 
> little Freon when I found the plugged filters.  The problem seems to 
> start when I start up in the afternoon with a hot evaporator.  As I 
> said there are a bunch of New Holland and some of the last Ford 
> tractors that have a switch installed to turn on the compressor.
>
> A thought occurred that it might be a circuit breaker that is a 
> thermal type and the electric  load compounded with the heat of the 
> interior might be causing the breaker to open.  I chased a blower 
> problem like this for 3 months and $300 parts before I found the 
> circuit breaker and replaced it with a fuse.  It worked fine with the 
> heater, but the A/C would load the breaker...
> Cecil
>
> On 7/21/2019 9:48 PM, bradloomis at charter.net 
> <mailto:bradloomis at charter.net> wrote:
>
>     If it’s that hot and cutting out on a HP switch, it could be
>     actual high pressure. I’d be leery of bypassing a HP safety. Is
>     there a possibility of non-condensables in the system? Of course
>     that would mean you’ve had the system open or it has run in a
>     vacuum with a leak. I never did automotive A/C only commercial and
>     industrial refrigeration. In commercial 134a does not do well with
>     dirty condensers. Can’t tell you home many compressors I’ve
>     replaced on beverage coolers like every convenience store in the
>     world has because the condensers suck a zillion tons of dust and
>     lint a day. R12 would tolerate periods of high discharge way
>     better than 134a. It doesn’t do well in my vehicles either. If it
>     gets really hot as California can, any extra load on the engine,
>     be it my VW diesel or my truck, you can tell the A/C output drops
>     10-20°. Temporary, but noticeable on a really hot day.
>
>     Are the air filters you speak of on the evaporator or condenser?
>     Clean your condenser, again. Or you have an electrical issue that
>     is causing something to open, the clutch, a safety, overload.
>     Harder to track for sure as you’d have to ohm those items when the
>     A/C quits while it’s hot.
>
>     Best I can think of.
>
>     Brad
>
>     *From:*AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>     <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Cecil
>     Bearden
>     *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2019 7:32 PM
>     *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>     *Subject:* Re: [AT] not antique but tractor related.
>
>     I have worked on vehicle air conditioning systems since I was 13
>     yrs old.  That is about 52 years.  I have seen a lot of crazy
>     problems and fixed every one that I was asked to work on.  Having
>     said that, I am stumped.  The TS110 money pit has always had a
>     great air conditioner.  a couple of weeks ago I was cutting hay in
>     a field a little ways from home, so I had the atv to travel back
>     and forth in case of breakdown, etc...  I baled for about 3 hours,
>     then stopped for lunch.  I returned and started the tractor and
>     noted the a/c was not working.  The compressor was not turning.  I
>     tried many different thing including bypassing the low pressure
>     cutout that had been replaced a day earlier.  It finally started
>     working after I had the doors open to the wind and the interior of
>     the cab cooled off. This took about an hour.  It worked fine.  I
>     put it in the shed.  2 days later I had to bale another field and
>     got started about 1pm.  It was hot and the A/c would work for
>     about 2 or 3 minutes then quit for 10 to 15 then run just a little
>     then quit again.  I spent the next 3 hours in a 95deg
>     greenhouse.    I spent last Friday morning checking the freon
>     levels and the switch connections.  I found the air filters were
>     really badly plugged.  I found the only ones were 65 miles away
>     and got them.  Without the filters the A/C worked fine and had the
>     correct pressures for a R134 system.   Today I got started baling
>     about 10 am and baled until 5pm and only once was it blowing not
>     real cold, but other wise worked fine...   Later this evening it
>     was starting to rain and I went to back it into the shed, the
>     interior of the cab was hotter  than a 2 dollar pistol.  The A/C
>     would not blow anything but hot air.  The heater does not work on
>     this so, it is not heater hoses.  When the interior is hot, the
>     system will not get started....    I am thinking a high pressure
>     cutout switch.  I really hat to bypass things, but I have seen so
>     many NH tractors at sales of this vintage that have an extra
>     switch in the cab for turning on the A/C clutch, I think maybe it
>     is a design defect as there are so many......  Anyone had any
>     experience like this???
>     Cecil
>
>
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