[AT] Rivets and rivet countersink, added thanks

[rdhaskell at juno.com]

If you are talking about making a flat bottom hole, use a brad point
drill designed for wood.  Does an excellent job and fairly cheap.
Ron

On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 02:50:56 +0000 (UTC) jdnut at aol.com writes:
Thanks to all that have read this thread and especially those that have
contributed.  


 I should have mentioned that the tubular semi hollow brake rivets that I
plan to use essentially need a 180 degree countersink.  The one at the
bottom of the link that Cecil sink is what I think I need, but at around
$90 per countersink..... I was looking at something a little more
reasonable.  It has been awhile since I looked at my projects in detail,
I have the feeling that some of the holes were 9/64 and some had been
worn such that 5/32 was a bit loose.  The service brake in the BR is
essentially a thin piece of spring steel with the lining riveted to the
inside of the "circle" and when applied, the circle tightens around a
cylinder on a shaft from the transmission/differential.  Not sure if the
gluing would work for something that flexes a bit.  Anyway, thanks so
much for all the effort that has gone into this.  I am thinking that I
can do some practice, and I can see if I use the idea that Carl mentions
below with the pointed punch.  I have also considered using a backing
washer of the right size, .... if the correct police want to crawl under
my BR to see that, they are more than welcome.  My tractors are for use,
not really for fancy shows anyway.  


Thanks again, take care, happy new year,


John Maxwell 
Ferndale CA   (BTW Brad, quite familiar with Morro Bay, CA, taught at Cal
Poly SLO for 28 years.... we would often take guests to Dorn's for
dinner, also as escape from the summer heat when I lived in Atascadero,
CA)
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