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<DIV>If you are talking about making a flat bottom hole, use a brad point drill
designed for wood. Does an excellent job and fairly cheap.</DIV>
<DIV>Ron</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 02:50:56 +0000 (UTC) <A
href="mailto:jdnut@aol.com">jdnut@aol.com</A> writes:</DIV>
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<DIV style="COLOR: black; FONT: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks to
all that have read this thread and especially those that have
contributed.
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV> I should have mentioned that the tubular semi hollow brake rivets
that I plan to use essentially need a 180 degree countersink. The one at
the bottom of the link that Cecil sink is what I think I need, but at around
$90 per countersink..... I was looking at something a little more reasonable.
It has been awhile since I looked at my projects in detail, I have the
feeling that some of the holes were 9/64 and some had been worn such that 5/32
was a bit loose. The service brake in the BR is essentially a thin piece
of spring steel with the lining riveted to the inside of the "circle" and when
applied, the circle tightens around a cylinder on a shaft from the
transmission/differential. Not sure if the gluing would work for
something that flexes a bit. Anyway, thanks so much for all the effort
that has gone into this. I am thinking that I can do some practice, and
I can see if I use the idea that Carl mentions below with the pointed punch.
I have also considered using a backing washer of the right size, .... if
the correct police want to crawl under my BR to see that, they are more than
welcome. My tractors are for use, not really for fancy shows anyway.
</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Thanks again, take care, happy new year,</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>John Maxwell </DIV>
<DIV>Ferndale CA (BTW Brad, quite familiar with Morro Bay, CA, taught
at Cal Poly SLO for 28 years.... we would often take guests to Dorn's for
dinner, also as escape from the summer heat when I lived in Atascadero,
CA)<BR><BR></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>