[AT] grease in steering gearbox

Thu Jun 9 07:01:23 PDT 2005

During radiation treatments they said I might lose hair in "the effected
area."  I said I would just go for a comb over.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldajohnson at bellsouth.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] grease in steering gearbox

> Hair plugs Roger, Hair Plugs!
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roger Welsch" <captneb at micrord.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 8:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] grease in steering gearbox
>
>
> > Welch plug?  Has my fame spread?  Word of my recent health problems?
What
> > is a Welch plug?  And please, no smart remarks.....
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Chris Britton" <c.britton at worldnet.att.net>
> > To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 7:11 AM
> > Subject: [AT] grease in steering gearbox
> >
> >
> > > >I would think that it would easier just to replace the seals, most
> seals
> > > >can
> > > >be found at your local Bearing and seal store.  I just replaced  the
> > seals
> > > >on
> > >
> > > I'm going to guess you don't work on ford steering boxes too often..
> > nothing
> > > easy
> > > about the ordeal at all.  First.. there are 2 style boxes on the 8n,
> early
> > > and late.
> > > In either case.. the seal doesn't go bad due to a bearing.. but rather
a
> > > bushing.
> > > R&R procedure is to remove the grill, remove the headlamps, remove the
> > fuel
> > > line,
> > > drain gas tank... remove steering wheel, remove hood and integral gas
> > > tank... This
> > > is a tad bulky as the hood, doglegs and gastank and tank frame come
off
> as
> > a
> > > unit..
> > > block and tackle is helpfull, or a few friends.. as the hood has to
come
> > > more or less
> > > straight up due to the radiator clearance between the hood and the gas
> > tank.
> > > Next is battery, battery box .  Then you pull all the instrumentation,
> > tach
> > > cable, oil line,
> > > oil gauge, remove wires to the ammeter, voltage regulator wire
> > > terminal/ignition reesistor,
> > > ignition switch.. etc.  Next you pull the dash cowling.
> > > After al this, the steering box is visible... to pull the sector seals
> you
> > > have to pull the draglink
> > > arms from the sectors.. usually not easy.. they never pop right off
even
> > > with a 3-jaw puller
> > >  then remove the top of the box and the side covers, then you pull the
> > > sectors, and the wormshaft
> > > and ballnut.
> > >
> > > At this point you then remove the box from the chassie, and hammer out
a
> > > welch plug int he bottom
> > > so that you can snatch the lower thrust bearing race.  Also have to
> snatch
> > > the top thrust bearing race from
> > > the box cover... it's usually easier to simply weld a bead around the
> face
> > > of the race and let it draw and
> > > fall out.. then tap new races in using a socket or seat tool.
> > >
> > > Now, on the old style box, there is no real sector backlash
adjustment,
> so
> > > you use the sector side covers as the backlash adjustment, as they are
> not
> > > perfectly round.. but are eccentric.. so as you turn them in the
> housing,
> > > you can try to find a more snug spot on the sector bushings.  if all
the
> > > adjustment is gone, you have to drive out the bushings , size new
ones,
> > and
> > > then reinstall.. at the same time you change the worn seals.  On the
new
> > > style boxes the bushings are a tad less important with the adjustable
> > > sectors... however it is good measure to remove/size/install new
> bushings
> > > and seals anyway.
> > > Clean sump, and reassemble box.  The leading sector has a master tooth
> and
> > > must be mated correctly with the ballnut and trailing sector or the
> > steering
> > > will be off.  With new races and bearings, you have to set the preload
> by
> > > using metal shim/gaskets between the box cover and the box.  There is
> also
> > a
> > > bearing at the top of the steering tube.. usually good measure to r&r
> that
> > > as well.  Refill, and then reassemble tractor in reverse order.
> > >
> > > Parts wise.. if your sectors are bad, or if the ballnut/wormshaft is
> bad..
> > > it's usually cheaper to buy a complete box from a salvage yard..  The
> > > wormshaft/ballnut assembly alone is a couple hundred bucks..   I've
seen
> > > boxes complete go between 250 and 450.
> > > The issue is with the sector shaft.  If the shaft seal diamaters are
> > worn..
> > > and they usually are.. due to the leaky seal... then you replace
them..
> > that
> > > gets spendy real fast.  It doesn't take too much wear to still have an
> oil
> > > leak after a rebuild.. that's why the cornhead grease works so good.
> it's
> > > actually designed for gearboxes, and is made to flow back into the
sump
> > and
> > > is very sticky.
> > >
> > > Again.. it's not an easy to get to deal as with a cub, wher ethe box
is
> > > setting out to the right of the tractor.
> > >
> > > >my Old Sun-Master rotary mower took 1 day to get them at Napa. Now  I
> > don't
> > > >have any leaks so I won't be worrying about the thing going dry and
> > wiping
> > > >out
> > > >an expensive gear box.
> > >
> > > We've found that grease is very acceptable.  Many of us have N's with
> > grease
> > > filled boxes that are going on decades old... that's not too bad for
an
> > > otherwise worn out part.
> > >
> > > >Like I keep saying, short cuts in  mechanical work can only get you
in
> > > >trouble later on.
> > >
> > > Later on..Yep.. like 10 or 20 or 30 years...  I'll take those
numbers...
> > > Considering that the grease costs about 6 bucks, and gets you years to
> > > decades down the road in about 20 minutes.  As with anything.. it's a
> > > cost/benefit.  you have to run the numbers.
> > > You have to take into consideration use and condition of the tractor.
> If
> > > it's the machine that you drive a couple times a year to do this or
that
> > > around the hunting camp.. it's hard to justify 200-500$ in parts, and
a
> > > couple full days labor, and a few specialized tools, or some machine
> work
> > > costs to get it to a point that 6$ and 20 minutes of grease will.
Yes..
> > > it's a pay me now.. or pay me later... but inthis case.. the pay me
> later
> > is
> > > no more expensive than the pay me now price.  Whereas in general.. pay
> me
> > > now/later problems get more expensive as time goes on.  Once your
> steering
> > > box parts are worn enough to leak.. especially the early ones.. it's
> > pretty
> > > much a swap out or 100% new parts... so the pay me later issue is
moot..
> > > costs the same now or later.. and 6$ of grease can make later years
and
> > > years away without any other detriment to the system.
> > >
> > > Soundguy
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > >
> > >
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