[AT] New to me

Mon Sep 26 06:44:53 PDT 2022

Just wanted to give everyone a little update. As you recall, I ordered the studs through Napa. They ordered them because a store in Kentucky showed inventory. But of course, as it often turns out, the store in fact did not have any. So they tried to order from the manufacturer who said those studs have been discontinued and they canceled the order.

As you may also recall, my local store had three. But I needed 4(hence the order). So what I did was I bought those three and I made my own 4th stud out of a grade 5, 4” bolt.  Can you spot the homemade stud?  (-:

 I hope the lack of black oxide treatment doesn’t matter in my lifetime.   Seriously doubt it.  The length of the nut end thread is not quite as long but it doesn’t matter in this case.  Still plenty long enough.

PS: Cecil, here you can see the very different thread lengths of typical tap-ended studs that are used for manifolds.

Spencer

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 19, 2022, at 10:11 AM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> AI just learned something.  I have wrenched for 60 years and did not know there was a difference in the threads on each end of the studs.   There is some grade 8 threaded rod available.  I would suggest cutting studs to length and then using loctite in the block.  
> Cecil
> 
> On 9/19/2022 8:28 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>> Thanks Cecil.   For manifold studs where the stud is exposed to the water jacket, you actually need “tap end” studs, not double ended stud.   Having an end with short threads ensures that you can seat the thread completely against the block without the stud going into the jacket cavitiy.  That fact and thread sealant will make sure it doesn’t leak. 
>> 
>> Here’s a link to McMaster Carr’s page for that type of stud:
>> 
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/tap-end-studs/thread-size~3-8-16/
>> 
>> Notice they don’t go over 3 inches either. It’s so weird.   I don’t know why the world suddenly has it out for the tap ended studs that are longer than 3 inches.
>> 
>> Spencer
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Sep 19, 2022, at 8:43 AM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods/thread-size~3-8-16/material~steel/threading~threaded-on-both-ends/
>>> 
>>> Cecil
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 9/18/2022 10:02 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>> Thanks John.   It was tricky to find it.  
>>>> 
>>>> The Allis is going down with a fight.  As you may remember, this tractor had an all fuel manifold. In addition that manifold was in absolutely horrible shape. It’s the worst manifold I’ve ever seen I’m pretty sure.  Was glad the seller had a new repo gas  manifold that came with the tractor.
>>>> 
>>>> The manifold studs that I was so very careful to extract and clean up turn out not to be long enough(4 of them anyways) for the new gas manifold that came with the tractor.  So I had to buy longer studs. 
>>>> 
>>>> Finding studs that weren’t a $50 kit from an eBay seller actually turned out to be a lot harder than I thought. I eventually found some but if you ever run across some 3/8–16 studs in the 3 to 5 inch length grab them and keep them because one day soon they will be extinct.
>>>> 
>>>> Spencer 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 18, 2022, at 8:55 AM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Good find!! I've ran into internal wiring bad on those as well as the insulators  for models like you have with a kill switch through the side. Fortunately we have a machine to test them on so I can "run" the magneto without the cap and look to see if any internal sparking going on. Even then it can drive you nuts. Sometimes you can unhook the coil and condenser and just play around with a meter looking for continuity, but if its not grounded and just "leaking or jumping an arc, you'll never find it. FYI if you are having to bench test, I normally put a small adjustable wrench on the drive lug, turning mags by hand gets old real quick!!
>>>>> 
>>>>> John Hall
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 9/17/2022 10:58 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>> Just a quick update. If you remember, I couldn’t get a spark from magneto at a spark plug terminal. I was getting a great spark at the coil so it wasn’t the points or the coil.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The mag did not yield to my persistence easily.  The problem did turn out to be in the inner base. Thanks to Brice’s patient consulting and many different tests I ultimately found that I could create a spark at a test rod placed through the base to the coil when  the base was in place but not tightened down.  But if I tightened the base down the spark would be very weak and intermittent.  Started looking all around and eventually found this. It’s a crack in the kill switch wire Apparently the base would push the wire close enough to ground to eat or share  the spark (leaving my test spark weak and intermittent) when tightened but not when the base was simply “in place”.  Leaving the kill switch wire disconnected and tucked out of the way the magneto worked great.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> By the way, the crack was never visible. It was on the bottom of the wire.  When I disconnected it from the points post and lifted it up I was able to see it. The act of lifting it up widened it quite a bit. The crack was not originally this gaping canyon you see here.  Insulation had completely fossilized.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> To give you an idea how long it took me to figure this out, let me just say that I actually sprained a finger from tripping the impulse so much.  (-:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:52 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I'm sure an AC C is a money pit about anywhere in NC. If it weren't for collectors, you couldn't give an old small Deere away. The IH offset models still seem to be holding fairly strong prices if they are in decent shape with fast hitch due to so many still being used by gardeners.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I've got a 44 DC Case I pull wagons with. Fires up instantly in any weather. Doesn't use oil or leak antifreeze. Looks horrible, tires are rough. I bet I couldn't get $800 for it. Now if it were an Farmall H or M, probably worth 1/2 again more.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I think a LOT of pre 1960 tractors are to the point it costs way more to keep them in great shape than they will ever sell for. I've got 2 Super A's that are needing tires. I use the tractors so I won't hesitate to replace the tires when needed as I don't really care what the tractors would sell for.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On 9/11/2022 11:56 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>>>> Thanks.  Based on experience and my thumb I feel pretty confident it should at least pop off. Once I get it popping off I’ll do the leak down test.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I’m actually not sure what I’m gonna do with this tractor.  This is Farmall/IH country. And like the rest of the US, tractors this old just aren’t generating much interest.  So based on these two facts I’m not sure I can even find anyone locally that’s interested in doing the final cleaning, gasket replacement and cosmetic restoration.  And like the dog analogy, I’m not sure if I’ll find a better home for it or I’ll just keep it as a companion for joy rides.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Maybe it will pull the tedder when I do hay.   But the Pacer might get jealous (-:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Sep 11, 2022, at 10:23 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On magnetos I just say the heck with it and replace all the usual suspects that cause trouble. Standard Magneto is still probably the best and cheapest source of parts.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> One thing I've started using is a leak down tester, got mine from Harbor Freight.  I will say you gotta watch the starting crank when using it, best to have 2 people I've found.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/11/2022 9:38 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> I’ve been pretty quiet. I thought life would get less busy as I got older but it hasn’t really turned out that way.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I did manage to score a new (to me) tractor. It’s an Allis Chalmers ‘C’; 1947.  I didn’t really intend to get it, but it was sort of like picking up a rescue dog just because you couldn’t stand to see it put down..  Belonged to an old man who bought it because a ‘C’ was the tractor he learned to drive on 75 years ago.  He just never had the energy, health, time to work on it.  He had done some work and had pretty much disassembled it. Because of its state and condition he just really never had any active buyers. It looked destined for an estate sale where the junk man picked it up for pennies.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Anyways, he had lots of new parts (gauges, manifolds, decals, fenders, etc) and had done a pretty decent job restoring the gas tank. Right now the magneto is not making any spark but with the help of Brice Adams I’ve narrowed it down to something in the rotor cap or the inner base simply eating the spark. I get a nice blue spark jumping directly to the coil button so I feel confident that a tuneup for magneto will bring it to life.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Right now I managed to pull the manifold studs without breaking a single one. I even got the nuts off. So after soaking in parts cleaner tonight I’ll chase all the threads, clean and file mating surfaces, and get them back in the engine. One of the new parts he had was a brand new manifold and manifold gasket.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I haven’t done a compression test, but the engine does put plenty of pressure on the thumb when turning it by hand so it should start at least.   The old manifold was an all-fuel manifold. It looked original based on it’s nearly completely disintegrated condition. Engine serial number does have a G suffix(think that means gas engine) so maybe it got a gas engine  swap sometime in its history and they simply reused the all-fuel manifold? No idea. I just want the engine to pop before I route fuel lines and worry about power, performance, and idle smoothness.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> That’s it for now,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
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