[AT] New to me

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Mon Sep 19 07:10:12 PDT 2022 

AI just learned something.  I have wrenched for 60 years and did not 
know there was a difference in the threads on each end of the studs.   
There is some grade 8 threaded rod available.  I would suggest cutting 
studs to length and then using loctite in the block.
Cecil

On 9/19/2022 8:28 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> Thanks Cecil.   For manifold studs where the stud is exposed to the 
> water jacket, you actually need “tap end” studs, not double ended 
> stud.   Having an end with short threads ensures that you can seat the 
> thread completely against the block without the stud going into the 
> jacket cavitiy.  That fact and thread sealant will make sure it 
> doesn’t leak.
>
> Here’s a link to McMaster Carr’s page for that type of stud:
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/tap-end-studs/thread-size~3-8-16/
>
> Notice they don’t go over 3 inches either. It’s so weird.   I don’t 
> know why the world suddenly has it out for the tap ended studs that 
> are longer than 3 inches.
>
> Spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Sep 19, 2022, at 8:43 AM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods/thread-size~3-8-16/material~steel/threading~threaded-on-both-ends/
>>
>> Cecil
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/18/2022 10:02 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>> Thanks John.   It was tricky to find it.
>>>
>>> The Allis is going down with a fight.  As you may remember, this 
>>> tractor had an all fuel manifold. In addition that manifold was in 
>>> absolutely horrible shape. It’s the worst manifold I’ve ever seen 
>>> I’m pretty sure.  Was glad the seller had a new repo gas  manifold 
>>> that came with the tractor.
>>>
>>> The manifold studs that I was so very careful to extract and clean 
>>> up turn out not to be long enough(4 of them anyways) for the new gas 
>>> manifold that came with the tractor.  So I had to buy longer studs.
>>>
>>> Finding studs that weren’t a $50 kit from an eBay seller actually 
>>> turned out to be a lot harder than I thought. I eventually found 
>>> some but if you ever run across some 3/8–16 studs in the 3 to 5 inch 
>>> length grab them and keep them because one day soon they will be 
>>> extinct.
>>>
>>> Spencer
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Sep 18, 2022, at 8:55 AM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Good find!! I've ran into internal wiring bad on those as well as 
>>>> the insulators  for models like you have with a kill switch through 
>>>> the side. Fortunately we have a machine to test them on so I can 
>>>> "run" the magneto without the cap and look to see if any internal 
>>>> sparking going on. Even then it can drive you nuts. Sometimes you 
>>>> can unhook the coil and condenser and just play around with a meter 
>>>> looking for continuity, but if its not grounded and just "leaking 
>>>> or jumping an arc, you'll never find it. FYI if you are having to 
>>>> bench test, I normally put a small adjustable wrench on the drive 
>>>> lug, turning mags by hand gets old real quick!!
>>>>
>>>> John Hall
>>>>
>>>> On 9/17/2022 10:58 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>> Just a quick update. If you remember, I couldn’t get a spark from 
>>>>> magneto at a spark plug terminal. I was getting a great spark at 
>>>>> the coil so it wasn’t the points or the coil.
>>>>>
>>>>> The mag did not yield to my persistence easily.  The problem did 
>>>>> turn out to be in the inner base. Thanks to Brice’s patient 
>>>>> consulting and many different tests I ultimately found that I 
>>>>> could create a spark at a test rod placed through the base to the 
>>>>> coil when  the base was in place but not tightened down.  But if I 
>>>>> tightened the base down the spark would be very weak and 
>>>>> intermittent.  Started looking all around and eventually found 
>>>>> this. It’s a crack in the kill switch wire Apparently the base 
>>>>> would push the wire close enough to ground to eat or share  the 
>>>>> spark (leaving my test spark weak and intermittent) when tightened 
>>>>> but not when the base was simply “in place”.  Leaving the kill 
>>>>> switch wire disconnected and tucked out of the way the magneto 
>>>>> worked great.
>>>>>
>>>>> By the way, the crack was never visible. It was on the bottom of 
>>>>> the wire.  When I disconnected it from the points post and lifted 
>>>>> it up I was able to see it. The act of lifting it up widened it 
>>>>> quite a bit. The crack was not originally this gaping canyon you 
>>>>> see here.  Insulation had completely fossilized.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To give you an idea how long it took me to figure this out, let me 
>>>>> just say that I actually sprained a finger from tripping the 
>>>>> impulse so much.  (-:
>>>>>
>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:52 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm sure an AC C is a money pit about anywhere in NC. If it 
>>>>>> weren't for collectors, you couldn't give an old small Deere 
>>>>>> away. The IH offset models still seem to be holding fairly strong 
>>>>>> prices if they are in decent shape with fast hitch due to so many 
>>>>>> still being used by gardeners.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've got a 44 DC Case I pull wagons with. Fires up instantly in 
>>>>>> any weather. Doesn't use oil or leak antifreeze. Looks horrible, 
>>>>>> tires are rough. I bet I couldn't get $800 for it. Now if it were 
>>>>>> an Farmall H or M, probably worth 1/2 again more.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I think a LOT of pre 1960 tractors are to the point it costs way 
>>>>>> more to keep them in great shape than they will ever sell for. 
>>>>>> I've got 2 Super A's that are needing tires. I use the tractors 
>>>>>> so I won't hesitate to replace the tires when needed as I don't 
>>>>>> really care what the tractors would sell for.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 9/11/2022 11:56 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>>> Thanks.  Based on experience and my thumb I feel pretty 
>>>>>>> confident it should at least pop off. Once I get it popping off 
>>>>>>> I’ll do the leak down test.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I’m actually not sure what I’m gonna do with this tractor.  This 
>>>>>>> is Farmall/IH country. And like the rest of the US, tractors 
>>>>>>> this old just aren’t generating much interest.  So based on 
>>>>>>> these two facts I’m not sure I can even find anyone locally 
>>>>>>> that’s interested in doing the final cleaning, gasket 
>>>>>>> replacement and cosmetic restoration.  And like the dog analogy, 
>>>>>>> I’m not sure if I’ll find a better home for it or I’ll just keep 
>>>>>>> it as a companion for joy rides.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Maybe it will pull the tedder when I do hay.   But the Pacer 
>>>>>>> might get jealous (-:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Sep 11, 2022, at 10:23 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> On magnetos I just say the heck with it and replace all the 
>>>>>>>> usual suspects that cause trouble. Standard Magneto is still 
>>>>>>>> probably the best and cheapest source of parts.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> One thing I've started using is a leak down tester, got mine 
>>>>>>>> from Harbor Freight.  I will say you gotta watch the starting 
>>>>>>>> crank when using it, best to have 2 people I've found.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> John Hall
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 9/11/2022 9:38 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I’ve been pretty quiet. I thought life would get less busy as 
>>>>>>>>> I got older but it hasn’t really turned out that way.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I did manage to score a new (to me) tractor. It’s an Allis 
>>>>>>>>> Chalmers ‘C’; 1947.  I didn’t really intend to get it, but it 
>>>>>>>>> was sort of like picking up a rescue dog just because you 
>>>>>>>>> couldn’t stand to see it put down..  Belonged to an old man 
>>>>>>>>> who bought it because a ‘C’ was the tractor he learned to 
>>>>>>>>> drive on 75 years ago.  He just never had the energy, health, 
>>>>>>>>> time to work on it.  He had done some work and had pretty much 
>>>>>>>>> disassembled it. Because of its state and condition he just 
>>>>>>>>> really never had any active buyers. It looked destined for an 
>>>>>>>>> estate sale where the junk man picked it up for pennies.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Anyways, he had lots of new parts (gauges, manifolds, decals, 
>>>>>>>>> fenders, etc) and had done a pretty decent job restoring the 
>>>>>>>>> gas tank. Right now the magneto is not making any spark but 
>>>>>>>>> with the help of Brice Adams I’ve narrowed it down to 
>>>>>>>>> something in the rotor cap or the inner base simply eating the 
>>>>>>>>> spark. I get a nice blue spark jumping directly to the coil 
>>>>>>>>> button so I feel confident that a tuneup for magneto will 
>>>>>>>>> bring it to life.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Right now I managed to pull the manifold studs without 
>>>>>>>>> breaking a single one. I even got the nuts off. So after 
>>>>>>>>> soaking in parts cleaner tonight I’ll chase all the threads, 
>>>>>>>>> clean and file mating surfaces, and get them back in the 
>>>>>>>>> engine. One of the new parts he had was a brand new manifold 
>>>>>>>>> and manifold gasket.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I haven’t done a compression test, but the engine does put 
>>>>>>>>> plenty of pressure on the thumb when turning it by hand so it 
>>>>>>>>> should start at least.   The old manifold was an all-fuel 
>>>>>>>>> manifold. It looked original based on it’s nearly completely 
>>>>>>>>> disintegrated condition. Engine serial number does have a G 
>>>>>>>>> suffix(think that means gas engine) so maybe it got a gas 
>>>>>>>>> engine  swap sometime in its history and they simply reused 
>>>>>>>>> the all-fuel manifold? No idea. I just want the engine to pop 
>>>>>>>>> before I route fuel lines and worry about power, performance, 
>>>>>>>>> and idle smoothness.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That’s it for now,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> AT mailing list
>>>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> AT mailing list
>>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.antique-tractor.com/pipermail/at-antique-tractor.com/attachments/20220919/45f90003/attachment.htm>

More information about the AT mailing list