[AT] Progress
Robert Brooks
rbrooks at hvc.rr.com
Mon Jan 10 09:10:53 PST 2022
Spencer
Nice job!!
On 1/10/2022 11:42 AM, Brad Loomis wrote:
> That looks like a great solution. I have to ask, is it well balanced
> enough that if a wheel hits an obstruction the whole works won't go
> butt over tea kettle?
> Brad
>
> On Mon, Jan 10, 2022, 7:54 AM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Steve for his idea to use the little small trailer
> kit and for everyone else’s help and advice. The job is complete.
> The clearance between the step wells just wasn’t there(off by just
> 3/4”) so I had to raise the cab up higher than I wanted to. But
> this gave me the opportunity to design bracing and framework that
> was both strong and forklift friendly. I also designed it so
> that just four bolts gets the framework and the cab off the
> trailer or just four cab mounting bolts gets the cab off the
> framework. I really wanted the design to be easy lift and easy
> dismount
>
>
> I had to raise it about 7 inches. Rather than interrupt peoples’
> weekend to help I just did it myself. To raise it I just inched up
> one side at the time using a hydraulic ram and raising the jacks.
>
> Now to get the clutter out of the cab 🤣
>
> Spencer
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:06 PM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey Brad,
>>
>> Sorry for the delay in responding I had to put it off at the time
>> and then just simply forgot.
>>
>> Yeah I’ve got a son-in-law and a son who are both really big
>> strong guys who have big strong friends. I’m thinking with some
>> appliance lift straps or tow straps they can get it up high
>> enough for me too get the trailer properly positioned underneath it.
>>
>> I currently have jack stands situated under the side step wells
>> and if push comes to shove they can definitely lift each side up
>> 2” while I keep sticking boards between the jack stands and the
>> side step wells to raise it. I only need about 6 or 8 inches of
>> additional height. This method also allows me to incrementally
>> and carefully lower the cab onto locating bolts.
>>
>> I’m using wood to attach the cab to the frame of the trailer
>> because I can easily and quickly fabricate the part that mounts
>> to the cab; in place, while properly locating the bolts holes.
>> Then remove it from the cab once it’s tight and right and attach
>> it to the trailer Then when the boys left it down it will just be
>> a matter of getting the trailer lined up underneath it.
>>
>> If I was going to actually trailer it down the street I would
>> use steel but I’ll never actually tow this thing down the
>> street. I’ll roll it up on my equipment trailer and carry it
>> wherever needs to go. trailering this directly more than a mile
>> or two just sounds like a recipe for damaging the cab in some way.
>>
>> Spencer
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Dec 27, 2021, at 10:21 PM, Brad Loomis
>>> <brad.loomis at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> That looks like the bee's knees for that use. Nice and compact I
>>> take it you, and a friend or two will pick it up and place on
>>> whatever 'locators' you have on the trailer? Or do you use a
>>> lift/ gantry?
>>> Brad
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 27, 2021 at 6:21 PM Spencer Yost
>>> <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I finally made good on my threat to buy that little trailer
>>> from Northern tool. Got a few small checks as gifts this
>>> year so I went ahead and splurged. As luck would have it,
>>> the diagonals of the frame almost exactly match the
>>> diagonals of the mounting points of the cab. So this is
>>> going to fit up real nice and easy.
>>>
>>> Total cost was $396 after tax, but there’s a coupon code for
>>> a $50 gift card to Northern tool for purchases over 250
>>> right now. Since I spend about $300 a year at the store
>>> or online just on odds and ends I consider it true savings
>>> as I will definitely be able to use it. So it’s $346 right
>>> now here in NC.
>>>
>>> PS: the trailer jack is brand new but was something I had
>>> left over from an auction several years back. The trailer
>>> jack does not come with the trailer if you are wondering.
>>>
>>>
>>> Spencer
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Nov 28, 2021, at 2:20 PM, Indiana Robinson
>>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have said for years that "You almost can't have too many
>>>> trailers..."
>>>> The one shown looks to be a great price.
>>>> I have one that was made on a pop-up camper frame that I
>>>> may mount my little Wood-mizer sawmill on to save my back.
>>>> I once bought one made on a smallish boat trailer that had
>>>> a long narrow box on it. It had been made by a small club
>>>> to haul their hang-gliders in. They went another route and
>>>> consigned it to an Amish auction. I think I paid $10 for it.
>>>> I think I only have 6 trailers right now.
>>>> Spencer, maybe you can "borrow" a boat trailer from your
>>>> borrowing neighbor... :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Nov 28, 2021 at 11:24 AM rbrooks at hvc.rr.com
>>>> <rbrooks at hvc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Great idea. I think I will have to pick one up for the
>>>> body of the 34 Plymouth!
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>> On Nov 27, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Spencer Yost
>>>>> <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Looks like Steve’s idea is the winner. Think I am
>>>>> going in this direction:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543
>>>>>
>>>>> I’m not worried about delays in paper work for
>>>>> registration(a common negative mentioned in reviews)
>>>>> because I can just pull/winch it up onto my regular
>>>>> equipment trailer to take it to the sandblaster and
>>>>> painter. In fact, I’d probably prefer it. The
>>>>> frame/configuration looks easy enough to modify to
>>>>> bolt the cab to it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks all for the feedback!
>>>>>
>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Nov 25, 2021, at 2:25 AM, Steve W.
>>>>>> <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Easy, go to harbor freight and get one of the trailer
>>>>>> kits they sell. Bolt a couple cross bars to it that
>>>>>> can bolt to the cab mounts or other solid point. Now
>>>>>> you have a dolly and trailer all in one, to work on
>>>>>> it you unbolt the tongue and attach a leg in it’s
>>>>>> place. Cheaper than buying the steel and you have a
>>>>>> small trailer in the end. Have done this a couple
>>>>>> times. To the point I have one now that has
>>>>>> adjustable arms on it so I can get the wheels under
>>>>>> the COG to make it easier to move and a fixed height
>>>>>> dolly wheel to let me push it around easier. Same
>>>>>> thing works for the box.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *From: *Spencer Yost <mailto:spencer at rdfarms.com>
>>>>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 24, 2021 10:55 PM
>>>>>> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>>>> *Subject: *[AT] Progress
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As you folks may remember, I have committed to
>>>>>> starting the restoration of my 1957 three-quarter ton
>>>>>> Chevy pick up. The first pieces of business were
>>>>>> re-arranging the shop(check), installing airlines
>>>>>> (check), a wood stove in the shop so that I can work
>>>>>> during the winter (check), and installing ceiling
>>>>>> mounted fans so I can work in the summer(check)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Next order of business is building a dolly for the
>>>>>> cab. I need to build a dolly that will allow me to
>>>>>> move it around the shop and also to move it onto a
>>>>>> trailer to take it to my soda blaster after I finish
>>>>>> the metal work. Any ideas here are welcome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> While I don’t anticipate doing a lot of work on the
>>>>>> cab anytime soon, it’s becoming clear to me that even
>>>>>> though I’m opening up half my shop for this project
>>>>>> I’m going to need to be able to scooch it around from
>>>>>> time to time to complete some of the other work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I need to finish the cub cadet 123 restoration 1st to
>>>>>> finish to finalize making room for the project. The
>>>>>> motor has been rebuilt and final assembly is nearly
>>>>>> complete. So I don’t anticipate that taking me on a
>>>>>> awful lot of time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The front axle and springs of the truck were restored
>>>>>> sometime ago, and the rear axle has only been
>>>>>> partially done. So I need to finish up the “sprung”
>>>>>> work, the driveline and transmission and frame and
>>>>>> get wheels sandblasted and painted and tires. Then
>>>>>> I’ll get the cab metal patched and to the blaster and
>>>>>> painter and get it on the frame.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> With my schedule that looks like six months-9 months
>>>>>> of work and all I am willling to plan and think
>>>>>> about. After six months I will be finished with
>>>>>> school and have extra time to put onto the project.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Spencer
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> Francis Robinson
>>>> aka "farmer"
>>>> Central Indiana USA
>>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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