[AT] Progress

Mon Jan 10 08:42:38 PST 2022

That looks like a great solution. I have to ask, is it well balanced enough
that if a wheel hits an obstruction the whole works won't go butt over tea
kettle?
Brad

On Mon, Jan 10, 2022, 7:54 AM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:

> Thanks again to Steve for his idea to use the little small trailer kit and
> for everyone else’s help and advice. The job is complete. The clearance
> between the step wells just wasn’t there(off by just 3/4”) so I had to
> raise the cab up higher than I wanted to. But this gave me the opportunity
> to design bracing and framework that was both strong and forklift friendly.
>   I also designed it so that just four bolts gets the framework and the cab
> off the trailer or just four cab mounting bolts gets the cab off the
> framework.  I really wanted the design to be easy lift and easy dismount
>
>
> I had to raise it about 7 inches.   Rather than interrupt peoples’ weekend
> to help I just did it myself.   To raise it I just inched up one side at
> the time using a hydraulic ram and raising the jacks.
>
> Now to get the clutter out of the cab 🤣
>
> Spencer
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:06 PM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Hey Brad,
>
> Sorry for the delay in responding I had to put it off at the time and then
> just simply forgot.
>
> Yeah I’ve got a son-in-law and a son who are both really big strong guys
> who have big strong friends.  I’m thinking with some appliance lift straps
> or tow straps they can get it up high enough for me too get the trailer
> properly positioned underneath it.
>
> I currently have jack stands situated under the side step wells and if
> push comes to shove they can definitely lift each  side up 2” while I keep
> sticking boards between the jack stands and the side step wells to raise
> it.  I only need about 6 or 8 inches of additional height.  This method
> also allows me to incrementally and carefully lower the cab onto locating
> bolts.
>
> I’m using wood to attach the cab to the frame of the trailer because I can
> easily and quickly fabricate the part that mounts to the cab; in place,
> while properly locating the bolts holes.  Then remove it from the cab once
> it’s tight and right and attach it to the trailer Then when the boys left
> it down it will just be a matter of getting the trailer lined up underneath
> it.
>
> If I was going to actually trailer it  down the street I would use steel
> but I’ll never actually tow this thing  down the street. I’ll roll it up on
> my equipment trailer and carry it wherever needs to go. trailering this
> directly more than a mile or two just sounds like a recipe for damaging the
> cab in some way.
>
> Spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 27, 2021, at 10:21 PM, Brad Loomis <brad.loomis at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> 
> That looks like the bee's knees for that use. Nice and compact I take it
> you, and a friend or two will pick it up and place on whatever 'locators'
> you have on the trailer? Or do you use a lift/ gantry?
> Brad
>
> On Mon, Dec 27, 2021 at 6:21 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>
>> I finally made good on my threat to buy that little trailer from Northern
>> tool. Got a few small checks as gifts this year so I went ahead and
>> splurged. As luck would have it, the diagonals of the frame almost exactly
>> match the diagonals of the mounting points of the cab. So this is going to
>> fit up real nice and easy.
>>
>> Total cost was $396 after tax, but there’s a coupon code for a $50 gift
>> card to Northern tool for purchases over 250  right  now.   Since I spend
>> about $300 a year at the store or online just on odds and ends I consider
>> it true savings as I will definitely be able to use it. So it’s $346 right
>> now here in NC.
>>
>> PS: the trailer jack is brand new but was something I had left over from
>> an auction several years back. The trailer jack does not come with the
>> trailer if you are wondering.
>>
>>
>> Spencer
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 28, 2021, at 2:20 PM, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> I have said for years that "You almost can't have too many trailers..."
>> The one shown looks to be a great price.
>> I have one that was made on a pop-up camper frame that I may mount my
>> little Wood-mizer sawmill on to save my back.
>> I once bought one made on a smallish boat trailer that had a long narrow
>> box on it. It had been made  by a small club to haul their hang-gliders in.
>> They went another route and consigned it to an Amish auction. I think I
>> paid $10 for it.
>> I think I only have 6 trailers right now.
>> Spencer, maybe you can "borrow" a boat trailer from your borrowing
>> neighbor...  :-)
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 28, 2021 at 11:24 AM rbrooks at hvc.rr.com <rbrooks at hvc.rr.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Great idea. I think I will have to pick one up for the body of the 34
>>> Plymouth!
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 27, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Looks like Steve’s idea is the winner.  Think I am going in this
>>> direction:
>>>
>>> https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543
>>>
>>> I’m not worried about delays in paper work for registration(a common
>>> negative mentioned in reviews) because I can just pull/winch it up onto my
>>> regular equipment trailer to take it to the sandblaster and painter.  In
>>> fact, I’d probably prefer it.  The frame/configuration looks easy enough to
>>> modify to bolt the cab to it.
>>>
>>> Thanks all for the feedback!
>>>
>>> Spencer
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 25, 2021, at 2:25 AM, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Easy, go to harbor freight and get one of the trailer kits they sell.
>>> Bolt a couple cross bars to it that can bolt to the cab mounts or other
>>> solid point. Now you have a dolly and trailer all in one, to work on it you
>>> unbolt the tongue and attach a leg in it’s place. Cheaper than buying the
>>> steel and you have a small trailer in the end. Have done this a couple
>>> times. To the point I have one now that has adjustable arms on it so I can
>>> get the wheels under the COG to make it easier to move and a fixed height
>>> dolly wheel to let me push it around easier. Same thing works for the box.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From: *Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com>
>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 24, 2021 10:55 PM
>>> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>> *Subject: *[AT] Progress
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> As you folks may remember, I have committed to starting the restoration
>>> of my 1957 three-quarter ton Chevy pick up. The first pieces of business
>>> were re-arranging the shop(check), installing airlines (check), a wood
>>> stove in the shop so that I can work during the winter (check), and
>>> installing ceiling mounted fans so I can work in the summer(check)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Next order of business is building a dolly for the cab. I need to build
>>> a dolly that will allow me to move it around the shop and also to move it
>>> onto a trailer to take it to my soda blaster after I finish the metal
>>> work.  Any ideas here are welcome.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> While I don’t anticipate doing a lot of work on the cab anytime soon,
>>> it’s becoming clear to me that even though I’m opening up half my shop for
>>> this project I’m going to need to be able to scooch it around from time to
>>> time to complete some of the other work.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I need to finish the cub cadet 123 restoration 1st to finish to finalize
>>> making room for the project. The motor has been rebuilt and final assembly
>>> is nearly complete. So I don’t anticipate that taking me on a awful lot of
>>> time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The front axle and springs of the truck were restored sometime ago, and
>>> the rear axle has only been partially done.   So I need to finish up the
>>> “sprung” work, the driveline and transmission and frame and get wheels
>>> sandblasted and painted and tires.  Then I’ll get the cab metal patched and
>>> to the blaster and painter and get it on the frame.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> With my schedule that looks like six months-9 months of work and all I
>>> am willling to plan and think about.  After six months I will be finished
>>> with school and have extra time to put onto the project.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Spencer
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
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>>
>>
>> --
>> --
>>
>> Francis Robinson
>> aka "farmer"
>> Central Indiana USA
>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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