[AT] OT- Troy-Bilt Horse

Howard Fleming hfleming at moosebird.net
Wed Oct 6 16:40:00 PDT 2021


I have the same tiller, pictures of the carb linkages.

Hope this helps.

Howard





On 10/5/21 8:51 PM, Bill Brueck wrote:
>
> The governor and the carb throttle should be linked.  Then the 
> throttle should tighten a spring, usually attached to the governor 
> arm, that the governor works against.  At idle setting the butterfly 
> can close but as the throttle is increased the butterfly opens and is 
> increasingly hard to close as the throttle is advanced and the spring 
> tightens.
>
> Should still do the adjustment I spoke of, linkage may be a little 
> different with the new carb.  I generally do this adjustment whenever 
> I have had a carb off. This adjustment also compensates for linkage as 
> it wears. Just takes a couple of seconds.  Put a little finger 
> pressure at the junction of the governor and the arm, loosen the bolt, 
> tighten it again.
>
> I probably have an HH60 or similar around. If the above doesn’t help I 
> can check and send a pic if you need.  The engine on my tiller should 
> be about what you’re looking at.
>
>>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Mike M
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 5, 2021 6:07 PM
> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] OT- Troy-Bilt Horse
>
> Sorry Bill, but I believe I mis-spoke. I don't believe it's the 
> governor linkage, I believe it's the throttle linkage, moving the 
> throttle lever does not increase the RPM's at all, it stays at idle.  
> Manually moving the throttle tab on the carb itself will make it rev up.
>
> Regards,
>  Mike M
>
> On 10/5/2021 6:18 PM, Bill Brueck wrote:
>
>     To adjust the governor linkage, loosen the nut or small bolt that
>     holds the governor arm to the shaft coming out of the engine
>     block.  Hold both the carb link and the governor shaft at the
>     junction of the adjustment in the far-open position.  Tighten the nut.
>
>     It’s really that simple.
>
>     Bill Brueck
>
>     Pine Island, MN
>
>>
>     Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>     *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>     <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> *On Behalf Of *Mike M
>     *Sent:* Tuesday, October 5, 2021 5:11 PM
>     *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>     <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>     *Subject:* Re: [AT] OT- Troy-Bilt Horse
>
>     Thanks for all the advice,does anyone have a schematic for the
>     governor linkage for the engine, it's a Tecumseh Xtra Life
>     Commercial Industrial HH60. I bought a new carburetor and it purs
>     like a kitten, but I can't get it to high rev with the governor
>     linkage not attached.  Any help would be appreciated.
>
>     Thanks,
>     Mike M
>
>     On 9/29/2021 8:37 AM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>
>         Mike,
>
>         If the breaks are at the mounting holes, and not at the carb
>         body, put large flat washers over the flanges with some JB
>         weld and then tighten down. The washers will help compress the
>         flange and keep it from working loose. You may have to grind
>         the washers down on one side to make them fit, but you’ll have
>         a stronger attachment.
>
>         Carl
>
>         On Tuesday, September 28, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com
>         <mailto:meulenms at gmx.com>> wrote:
>
>             Thank you for all the replies to help. The parts snapped
>             clean, so I thoroughly cleaned the 2 parts with acetone
>             and put it back together with JB Weld. I'll use a light
>             coating of RTV black to reinstall it after 48 hrs, and use
>             light pressure, to re-attach it. Thank you Mark for your
>             generous offer! I'll let you know how it goes.
>
>             Regards,
>             Mike M
>
>             On 9/28/2021 4:38 PM, magreer67 wrote:
>
>                 Send me a picture of what you need.  I have a couple
>                 of those engines as basket cases from a couple TB
>                 Horses that I have repowered.
>
>                 Mark Greer
>
>                 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>                 -------- Original message --------
>
>                 From: Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> <mailto:meulenms at gmx.com>
>
>                 Date: 9/27/21 7:33 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
>                 To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>                 <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>                 <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
>                 Subject: [AT] OT- Troy-Bilt Horse
>
>                 Hi all,
>                 I have a question about Troy Built tillers; I have a
>                 '70's-80's Troy
>                 Bilt Horse tiller, well before they became MTD. I was
>                 moving it in high
>                 gear, over some hard clay to a place I wanted to till.
>                 Well, it hit the
>                 ground and took off like a bucking bronco. I started
>                 to go after it but
>                 having had my share of injuries this year I just let
>                 it go . It bounced
>                 and jumped all over the place, until it hit a tree,
>                 and cracked the
>                 carburetor flange. The engine is a HH60 Tecumseh, and
>                 all I need to
>                 repair it is a new carb. The problem is I cannot find
>                 one with the
>                 plate, and tall screw that is riveted on to accept the
>                 vertical air
>                 cleaner. Any  help would be appreciated.
>
>                 Thanks,
>                 Mike M
>
>
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