[AT] Super M exhaust leak

Wed May 19 19:44:23 PDT 2021

Dean,

You be a lucky man!  Go find a casino and bet a bunch.

Dean VP

Snohomish, WA 98290

"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."

..Winston Churchill...

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean Vinson
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2021 3:09 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Super M exhaust leak

My string of relative good fortune continued this afternoon, as the broken stud came out with only a modest fight.   I’d been hitting it with penetrating fluid periodically, then today added a few cycles of heating followed by spraying with more penetrating oil.   Then I used the progressive hole method, with normal right-twist bits since I hadn’t found any reverse twist bits at a price I wanted to pay.

I thought I’d done a good job of centering the drill bit, but as the bit sizes got larger I could see I was a little low so I stopped at 5/16”.   (The stud is 7/16).   It had broken with just a little bit sticking out clear of the side of the engine, so I grabbed it with vice grips and very cautiously tried to back it out… expecting that little end, now hollowed out, to break right off leaving the rest stuck inside the hole.   But out it all came.   I chased the threads with a tap just to make sure, put in a new stud, then put everything back together.

In addition to this latest exhaust-leak issue, I’d been aware for a year or two that the exhaust pipe threads and/or manifold threads were rusted and goobered up, making it impossible to get the exhaust pipe to really seat securely in the manifold.   So the tractor now has a new manifold, exhaust pipe, and gaskets, to go with the new muffler I’d put on last year.   Nice to have it running and sounding good again.

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

-----Original Message-----

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden

Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 9:45 AM

To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 

Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

I have had a lot of good luck with reverse twist drills and using the progressive hole method.  When you get the inside cut out and the pressure relieved, many times the threads will come out.

Cecil 

On 5/2/2021 8:20 AM, Dean Vinson wrote:

Thanks, Dean, your suggestion about the cape chisel sounds good.  I’ll have a go at removing the broken stud in a week or two, after the replacement parts arrive.   And you betcha about being grateful for the five.

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

-----Original Message-----

From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Dean VP

Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 3:17 PM

To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com

Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Dean,

I think you need to be very grateful that you have 5 out w/o a problem. In fact you need to go to a casino and bet heavily.  Getting out the twisted off stud can  be a challenge. First of all forget using “Easy Outs” in this situation. They are better known as “Never Outs”.  It appears to me that the stud broke off even with the surface of the head so I won’t make any comments about welding on a nut or using a pipe wrench.   Your only choice is to drill a hole into the center of the remaining stud and drill a progressively larger hole until you reach the threads of the head. Then you can try a couple things. One is you can melt out the remaining part of the stud using an acetylene torch. Remember Cast Iron melts at a higher temperature that the stud material.  Or one trick that I have used successfully multiple times and that is to use a “cape” chisel and slide it between the threads of the stud and the head in two to three places.  Use as small of a cape chisel as you can get by with to minimize thread damage. What is a cape chisel?   Think of a nail punch that has been ground off right at the tip at a very sharp angle. Be careful to not ruin the temper. Then drive that edge into the slot where the two threads meet. It will peel and separate the two threads apart. Repeat this step a couple more times around the stud and the remaining threads should pop out. If they don’t, the torch will aid in loosening them up.  Try not to use the cape chisel any more than necessary to avoid ruining very much of the threads.  Ruining SOME of the threads is not a problem. Clean up the threads in the hole with a repair tap or bottom tap.  Using as taper tap first before the bottom tap sometimes helps.

This whole job requires a lot of patience and make sure there are no children or women around. 😊

Dean VP

Snohomish, WA 98290

"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."

..Winston Churchill...

 -----Original Message-----

From: AT <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean Vinson

Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 8:15 AM

To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>

Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Phil, finally time for a followup.    Per your advice below I’ve been hitting the manifold nuts with PB Blaster every couple of weeks, and finally went out to put a wrench on them today.   First four came right off, easy and clean, and I was thinking “Sweet, I’m golden.”

#5 backed the stud out rather than loosen the nut, and then #6 left me the little souvenir shown in the attached photo.   Looks like this particular Saturday isn’t going to be the one where I finish this job.  ;)

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

-----Original Message-----

From: AT <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Phil Auten

Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 11:17 PM

To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com

Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Well, Dean, while the tractor is sitting, let those nuts and bolts soak with PB Blaster, Kroil or your favorite penetrant. They will be a lot happier to come loose without breaking then. Have fun with it and remember, as George Willer once told me, "Time is your friend".

Phil in TX

On 1/31/2021 5:42 PM, Dean Vinson wrote:

Hmmm, good point about “straightforward” being a problematic concept, gents.   I’ll likely let it sit for a couple more weeks while I ponder it.  :)

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

-----Original Message-----

From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Mike M

Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 2:32 PM

To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com

Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Re: One of our own / Super M exhaust leak

Dean, can't that spot be brazed to seal it? Nothing is as straight forward when removing 70 year old nuts. I'd be inclined to spray them with PB Blaster or something like it for a week or so before trying it. Wouldn't hurt to get them cherry red a few times as well. 

Mike M  

On 1/31/2021 12:36 PM, Gunnells, Brad R wrote:

<quote>Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward.....</quote>

Dean, that right there may have been what takes it from a fairly quick and easy job to one of rusted and broken studs to create all kinds of inventive new language. Hahaha

Just kidding. Hopefully everything comes apart easily. If It's like my WD45 it shouldn't be too bad unless you run into issues with studs (which I did).

Congrats on the picture!

Brad

________________________________________

From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com on behalf of Dean Vinson mailto:dean at vinsonfarm.net

Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 10:23 AM

To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com

Subject: [External] Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak 

Thanks, gentlemen!    That same tractor, sitting in that same spot, now needs some attention to fix an exhaust leak.   I went to use the tractor a few Saturdays ago, and right after firing it up noticed this regular tapping sound.   For some time now I've been noticing the exhaust pipe won't stay securely seated in the manifold and I have to tighten it up now and then, and every time I do so I worry the top of the manifold will crack apart, so I suspected it had finally cracked.   I walked around and took a little video, but didn't want to really get into it right then so I shut the tractor down and used another one (the Ford 3600) instead. 

Yesterday I did a little more investigation, and found at least one spot where the exhaust manifold gasket is bad.    A few video clips:

https://youtu.be/gAZ9FwxrC34

https://youtu.be/hHfx1c5Hu4s

https://youtu.be/v0qLG8xuPYM

I'm inclined to go ahead and replace the manifold, since I've been worrying about it anyway, and at minimum I have to replace the gasket.   Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward, just get the air intake pipe out of the way, unbolt the old manifold, replace the gasket, and put everything back together? 

Dean Vinson

Saint Paris, Ohio

-----Original Message-----

From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Mike M

Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 9:13 PM

To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com

Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own

Congratulations  Dean very nice picture.

Mike M

On 1/30/2021 8:31 PM, Milo Holroyd wrote:

> Congratulations! Dean Vinson!

> 

> https://mailchi.mp/21b62a015548/featured-tractor-photo-january?e=cfec74a33e

> 

> 

> Milo

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