[AT] Super M exhaust leak

Thu May 20 04:39:15 PDT 2021

Hi Dean:

Congrats!  It rarely goes that well for me with right-hand drill bits.  But
I do have several different sizes of left-hand drill bits which tend to
work pretty well most of the time.  You might consider picking up a select
few (something like 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", maybe one or two more).  I just took
a quick look on MSC (an industrial supplier with an enormous array of metal
cutting tools).  Using their search filtering tool, I found 6 different LH
drills with 118-deg points in plain old high speed steel.  Cheapest one is
a real nice Guhring for three bucks.

https://tinyurl.com/u7bvywey

SO

On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:09 PM Dean Vinson <dean at vinsonfarm.net> wrote:

> My string of relative good fortune continued this afternoon, as the broken
> stud came out with only a modest fight.   I’d been hitting it with
> penetrating fluid periodically, then today added a few cycles of heating
> followed by spraying with more penetrating oil.   Then I used the
> progressive hole method, with normal right-twist bits since I hadn’t found
> any reverse twist bits at a price I wanted to pay.
>
>
>
> I thought I’d done a good job of centering the drill bit, but as the bit
> sizes got larger I could see I was a little low so I stopped at 5/16”.
> (The stud is 7/16).   It had broken with just a little bit sticking out
> clear of the side of the engine, so I grabbed it with vice grips and very
> cautiously tried to back it out… expecting that little end, now hollowed
> out, to break right off leaving the rest stuck inside the hole.   But out
> it all came.   I chased the threads with a tap just to make sure, put in a
> new stud, then put everything back together.
>
>
>
> In addition to this latest exhaust-leak issue, I’d been aware for a year
> or two that the exhaust pipe threads and/or manifold threads were rusted
> and goobered up, making it impossible to get the exhaust pipe to really
> seat securely in the manifold.   So the tractor now has a new manifold,
> exhaust pipe, and gaskets, to go with the new muffler I’d put on last
> year.   Nice to have it running and sounding good again.
>
>
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden
>
> Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 9:45 AM
>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
>
>
> I have had a lot of good luck with reverse twist drills and using the
> progressive hole method.  When you get the inside cut out and the pressure
> relieved, many times the threads will come out.
>
>
>
> Cecil
>
>
>
> On 5/2/2021 8:20 AM, Dean Vinson wrote:
>
> Thanks, Dean, your suggestion about the cape chisel sounds good.  I’ll
> have a go at removing the broken stud in a week or two, after the
> replacement parts arrive.   And you betcha about being grateful for the
> five.
>
>
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Dean VP
>
> Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 3:17 PM
>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' mailto:
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
>
>
> Dean,
>
>
>
> I think you need to be very grateful that you have 5 out w/o a problem. In
> fact you need to go to a casino and bet heavily.  Getting out the twisted
> off stud can  be a challenge. First of all forget using “Easy Outs” in this
> situation. They are better known as “Never Outs”.  It appears to me that
> the stud broke off even with the surface of the head so I won’t make any
> comments about welding on a nut or using a pipe wrench.   Your only choice
> is to drill a hole into the center of the remaining stud and drill a
> progressively larger hole until you reach the threads of the head. Then you
> can try a couple things. One is you can melt out the remaining part of the
> stud using an acetylene torch. Remember Cast Iron melts at a higher
> temperature that the stud material.  Or one trick that I have used
> successfully multiple times and that is to use a “cape” chisel and slide it
> between the threads of the stud and the head in two to three places.  Use
> as small of a cape chisel as you can get by with to minimize thread damage.
> What is a cape chisel?   Think of a nail punch that has been ground off
> right at the tip at a very sharp angle. Be careful to not ruin the temper.
> Then drive that edge into the slot where the two threads meet. It will peel
> and separate the two threads apart. Repeat this step a couple more times
> around the stud and the remaining threads should pop out. If they don’t,
> the torch will aid in loosening them up.  Try not to use the cape chisel
> any more than necessary to avoid ruining very much of the threads.  Ruining
> SOME of the threads is not a problem. Clean up the threads in the hole with
> a repair tap or bottom tap.  Using as taper tap first before the bottom tap
> sometimes helps.
>
>
>
> This whole job requires a lot of patience and make sure there are no
> children or women around. 😊
>
>
>
> Dean VP
>
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and gospel
> of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
>
> ..Winston Churchill...
>
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Dean
> Vinson
>
> Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 8:15 AM
>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <mailto:
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
>
>
> Phil, finally time for a followup.    Per your advice below I’ve been
> hitting the manifold nuts with PB Blaster every couple of weeks, and
> finally went out to put a wrench on them today.   First four came right
> off, easy and clean, and I was thinking “Sweet, I’m golden.”
>
>
>
> #5 backed the stud out rather than loosen the nut, and then #6 left me the
> little souvenir shown in the attached photo.   Looks like this particular
> Saturday isn’t going to be the one where I finish this job.  ;)
>
>
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Phil
> Auten
>
> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 11:17 PM
>
> To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
>
>
> Well, Dean, while the tractor is sitting, let those nuts and bolts soak
> with PB Blaster, Kroil or your favorite penetrant. They will be a lot
> happier to come loose without breaking then. Have fun with it and remember,
> as George Willer once told me, "Time is your friend".
>
> Phil in TX
>
> On 1/31/2021 5:42 PM, Dean Vinson wrote:
>
> Hmmm, good point about “straightforward” being a problematic concept,
> gents.   I’ll likely let it sit for a couple more weeks while I ponder it.
> :)
>
>
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Mike M
>
> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 2:32 PM
>
> To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Re: One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
>
>
> Dean, can't that spot be brazed to seal it? Nothing is as straight forward
> when removing 70 year old nuts. I'd be inclined to spray them with PB
> Blaster or something like it for a week or so before trying it. Wouldn't
> hurt to get them cherry red a few times as well.
>
>
>
> Mike M
>
> On 1/31/2021 12:36 PM, Gunnells, Brad R wrote:
>
> <quote>Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward.....</quote>
>
>
>
> Dean, that right there may have been what takes it from a fairly quick and
> easy job to one of rusted and broken studs to create all kinds of inventive
> new language. Hahaha
>
>
>
> Just kidding. Hopefully everything comes apart easily. If It's like my
> WD45 it shouldn't be too bad unless you run into issues with studs (which I
> did).
>
>
>
> Congrats on the picture!
>
>
>
> Brad
>
> ________________________________________
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com on behalf of Dean
> Vinson mailto:dean at vinsonfarm.net
>
> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 10:23 AM
>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' mailto:
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: [External] Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
>
>
> Thanks, gentlemen!    That same tractor, sitting in that same spot, now
> needs some attention to fix an exhaust leak.   I went to use the tractor a
> few Saturdays ago, and right after firing it up noticed this regular
> tapping sound.   For some time now I've been noticing the exhaust pipe
> won't stay securely seated in the manifold and I have to tighten it up now
> and then, and every time I do so I worry the top of the manifold will crack
> apart, so I suspected it had finally cracked.   I walked around and took a
> little video, but didn't want to really get into it right then so I shut
> the tractor down and used another one (the Ford 3600) instead.
>
>
>
> Yesterday I did a little more investigation, and found at least one spot
> where the exhaust manifold gasket is bad.    A few video clips:
>
>
>
> https://youtu.be/gAZ9FwxrC34
>
> https://youtu.be/hHfx1c5Hu4s
>
> https://youtu.be/v0qLG8xuPYM
>
>
>
> I'm inclined to go ahead and replace the manifold, since I've been
> worrying about it anyway, and at minimum I have to replace the gasket.
> Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward, just get the air intake pipe out
> of the way, unbolt the old manifold, replace the gasket, and put everything
> back together?
>
>
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Mike M
>
> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 9:13 PM
>
> To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own
>
>
>
> Congratulations  Dean very nice picture.
>
>
>
> Mike M
>
>
>
>
>
> On 1/30/2021 8:31 PM, Milo Holroyd wrote:
>
> > Congratulations! Dean Vinson!
>
> >
>
> >
> https://mailchi.mp/21b62a015548/featured-tractor-photo-january?e=cfec74a33e
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Milo
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.antique-tractor.com/pipermail/at-antique-tractor.com/attachments/20210520/145e0adb/attachment.htm>