[AT] Super M exhaust leak

Wed May 19 17:37:13 PDT 2021

Dontcha' just love it when a plan comes together?

Phil in TX

On 5/19/2021 5:08 PM, Dean Vinson wrote:
>
> My string of relative good fortune continued this afternoon, as the 
> broken stud came out with only a modest fight.   I’d been hitting it 
> with penetrating fluid periodically, then today added a few cycles of 
> heating followed by spraying with more penetrating oil.   Then I used 
> the progressive hole method, with normal right-twist bits since I 
> hadn’t found any reverse twist bits at a price I wanted to pay.
>
> I thought I’d done a good job of centering the drill bit, but as the 
> bit sizes got larger I could see I was a little low so I stopped at 
> 5/16”.   (The stud is 7/16).   It had broken with just a little bit 
> sticking out clear of the side of the engine, so I grabbed it with 
> vice grips and very cautiously tried to back it out… expecting that 
> little end, now hollowed out, to break right off leaving the rest 
> stuck inside the hole.   But out it all came.   I chased the threads 
> with a tap just to make sure, put in a new stud, then put everything 
> back together.
>
> In addition to this latest exhaust-leak issue, I’d been aware for a 
> year or two that the exhaust pipe threads and/or manifold threads were 
> rusted and goobered up, making it impossible to get the exhaust pipe 
> to really seat securely in the manifold.   So the tractor now has a 
> new manifold, exhaust pipe, and gaskets, to go with the new muffler 
> I’d put on last year.   Nice to have it running and sounding good again.
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden
>
> Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 9:45 AM
>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
> I have had a lot of good luck with reverse twist drills and using the 
> progressive hole method. When you get the inside cut out and the 
> pressure relieved, many times the threads will come out.
>
> Cecil
>
> On 5/2/2021 8:20 AM, Dean Vinson wrote:
>
> Thanks, Dean, your suggestion about the cape chisel sounds good.  I’ll 
> have a go at removing the broken stud in a week or two, after the 
> replacement parts arrive.   And you betcha about being grateful for 
> the five.
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Dean VP
>
> Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 3:17 PM
>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' 
> mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
> Dean,
>
> I think you need to be very grateful that you have 5 out w/o a 
> problem. In fact you need to go to a casino and bet heavily.  Getting 
> out the twisted off stud can  be a challenge. First of all forget 
> using “Easy Outs” in this situation. They are better known as “Never 
> Outs”.  It appears to me that the stud broke off even with the surface 
> of the head so I won’t make any comments about welding on a nut or 
> using a pipe wrench.   Your only choice is to drill a hole into the 
> center of the remaining stud and drill a progressively larger hole 
> until you reach the threads of the head. Then you can try a couple 
> things. One is you can melt out the remaining part of the stud using 
> an acetylene torch. Remember Cast Iron melts at a higher temperature 
> that the stud material.  Or one trick that I have used successfully 
> multiple times and that is to use a “cape” chisel and slide it between 
> the threads of the stud and the head in two to three places.  Use as 
> small of a cape chisel as you can get by with to minimize thread 
> damage. What is a cape chisel?   Think of a nail punch that has been 
> ground off right at the tip at a very sharp angle. Be careful to not 
> ruin the temper. Then drive that edge into the slot where the two 
> threads meet. It will peel and separate the two threads apart. Repeat 
> this step a couple more times around the stud and the remaining 
> threads should pop out. If they don’t, the torch will aid in loosening 
> them up.  Try not to use the cape chisel any more than necessary to 
> avoid ruining very much of the threads.  Ruining SOME of the threads 
> is not a problem. Clean up the threads in the hole with a repair tap 
> or bottom tap.  Using as taper tap first before the bottom tap 
> sometimes helps.
>
> This whole job requires a lot of patience and make sure there are no 
> children or women around. 😊
>
> Dean VP
>
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and 
> gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
>
> ..Winston Churchill...
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of 
> Dean Vinson
>
> Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 8:15 AM
>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' 
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
> Phil, finally time for a followup.    Per your advice below I’ve been 
> hitting the manifold nuts with PB Blaster every couple of weeks, and 
> finally went out to put a wrench on them today.   First four came 
> right off, easy and clean, and I was thinking “Sweet, I’m golden.”
>
> #5 backed the stud out rather than loosen the nut, and then #6 left me 
> the little souvenir shown in the attached photo.   Looks like this 
> particular Saturday isn’t going to be the one where I finish this job.  ;)
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of 
> Phil Auten
>
> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 11:17 PM
>
> To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
> Well, Dean, while the tractor is sitting, let those nuts and bolts 
> soak with PB Blaster, Kroil or your favorite penetrant. They will be a 
> lot happier to come loose without breaking then. Have fun with it and 
> remember, as George Willer once told me, "Time is your friend".
>
> Phil in TX
>
> On 1/31/2021 5:42 PM, Dean Vinson wrote:
>
> Hmmm, good point about “straightforward” being a problematic concept, 
> gents.   I’ll likely let it sit for a couple more weeks while I ponder 
> it.  :)
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Mike M
>
> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 2:32 PM
>
> To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] [External] Re: One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
> Dean, can't that spot be brazed to seal it? Nothing is as straight 
> forward when removing 70 year old nuts. I'd be inclined to spray them 
> with PB Blaster or something like it for a week or so before trying 
> it. Wouldn't hurt to get them cherry red a few times as well.
>
> Mike M
>
> On 1/31/2021 12:36 PM, Gunnells, Brad R wrote:
>
> <quote>Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward.....</quote>
>
> Dean, that right there may have been what takes it from a fairly quick 
> and easy job to one of rusted and broken studs to create all kinds of 
> inventive new language. Hahaha
>
> Just kidding. Hopefully everything comes apart easily. If It's like my 
> WD45 it shouldn't be too bad unless you run into issues with studs 
> (which I did).
>
> Congrats on the picture!
>
> Brad
>
> ________________________________________
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com on behalf of Dean 
> Vinson mailto:dean at vinsonfarm.net
>
> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 10:23 AM
>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' 
> mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: [External] Re: [AT] One of our own / Super M exhaust leak
>
> Thanks, gentlemen!    That same tractor, sitting in that same spot, 
> now needs some attention to fix an exhaust leak.   I went to use the 
> tractor a few Saturdays ago, and right after firing it up noticed this 
> regular tapping sound.   For some time now I've been noticing the 
> exhaust pipe won't stay securely seated in the manifold and I have to 
> tighten it up now and then, and every time I do so I worry the top of 
> the manifold will crack apart, so I suspected it had finally 
> cracked.   I walked around and took a little video, but didn't want to 
> really get into it right then so I shut the tractor down and used 
> another one (the Ford 3600) instead.
>
> Yesterday I did a little more investigation, and found at least one 
> spot where the exhaust manifold gasket is bad.    A few video clips:
>
> https://youtu.be/gAZ9FwxrC34
>
> https://youtu.be/hHfx1c5Hu4s
>
> https://youtu.be/v0qLG8xuPYM
>
> I'm inclined to go ahead and replace the manifold, since I've been 
> worrying about it anyway, and at minimum I have to replace the 
> gasket.   Seems like it'd be pretty straightforward, just get the air 
> intake pipe out of the way, unbolt the old manifold, replace the 
> gasket, and put everything back together?
>
> Dean Vinson
>
> Saint Paris, Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: AT mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com On Behalf Of Mike M
>
> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 9:13 PM
>
> To: mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
> Subject: Re: [AT] One of our own
>
> Congratulations  Dean very nice picture.
>
> Mike M
>
> On 1/30/2021 8:31 PM, Milo Holroyd wrote:
>
> > Congratulations! Dean Vinson!
>
> >
>
> > 
> https://mailchi.mp/21b62a015548/featured-tractor-photo-january?e=cfec74a33e
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Milo
>
>
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