[AT] Questions on a 1953 John Deere M

Wed Jul 7 12:09:41 PDT 2021

Cecil:

True; they rate the high end at 212F.  Oil can run at a different
temperature than the t-stat, usually hotter (modern vehicles) but I suppose
it could actually be cooler in some applications.  Even if we just go with
your 170F as an assumption for the oil temp, sure, that's ~40F below the
rating temperature so the 15W-40 will be thinner than the straight 40 for
sure.

SO

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 2:38 PM Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:

> Steve:
>
> I had 15-40 Mystic in my Ingersoll compressor with the 3-71 Detroit
> engine.  It started rattling when the outside temp got up to 80deg.  I
> changed it to straight 40W mystic and the rattling stopped.  This is why it
> is not recommended in the older engines as they run cooler than the late
> model ones.  If it was running at 190 It may have made a difference.  It
> usually runs at about 170 deg even in 100 deg heat.
> Cecil
> On 7/7/2021 8:56 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> Straight 30 is thinner than 15W-40 when the engine is at operating
> temperature.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 7:48 AM hfleming <hfleming at moosebird.net> wrote:
>
>> Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil.  I suspect I will go with
>> 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already using it in the 72 IH 1300 I
>> have, along with a 48 Ford 8N.  If oil pressure becomes a problem will look
>> at straight 30W.
>>
>> Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find out.  I do
>> know the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder is damaged, so I am going to
>> have to deal with the shortly, along with the brakes that barely work at
>> the moment (oil soaked) and the front axle pivot bushing that appear to no
>> longer exist.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Howard
>>
>>
>> On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>
>> Seriously, farmer?  ;-)
>>
>> Well, if so, I'd say no.  One reason is that, once upon a time, full
>> synth oils gained a reputation for creating leakers (from memory, not
>> reliable).  The chemistry was not fully compatible with the elastomers used
>> in the seals.  Here in the modern day you don't hear about that any more.
>> I don't know if the elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has
>> changed.  If it's the modern seals that keep synth from leaking, then, I
>> guess you don't want to expose old seals to it.
>>
>> And the best applications for the higher-cost full synth oils are those
>> with real temperature extremes.  It flows better at extreme cold
>> temperatures, and it resists cooking at extreme high temperatures (like you
>> find in modern turbocharged engines).
>>
>> SO
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:21 PM Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Steve:
>>> I would be interested in your thoughts on using full synthetic oils in
>>> such an engine...
>>> The cost difference is actually minimal in the larger picture unless it
>>> is a big burner or leaker. My father used to joke that some of those old
>>> tractors with big oil filler openings needed them so that they could stop
>>> every round and quickly pour in more oil out of a milk can...  :-)
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would not use a thin oil in an old and presumably worn engine.  I
>>>> think 15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great choice.  Aside from the brands
>>>> mentioned, you can also find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most places
>>>> (like Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA, etc).  Then again, the benefit of
>>>> straight-weight oil is that there's more oil in there vs multi-viscosity.
>>>> The "viscosity improver" additives take up significant volume.  I'd still
>>>> avoid thin stuff, climate dependent.  I still see straight SAE 30 and 40 on
>>>> the store shelves; haven't seen 10 or 20 in quite a while.
>>>>
>>>> SO
>>>>
>>>> SO
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40. Pretty cheap at Wally World or
>>>>> Rural King.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike M
>>>>>
>>>>> On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Awww yes, the old oil debate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Diesel oil is recommended because some of them have a sf rating which
>>>>> is better for your engine than the modern sj rating. Read the fine print on
>>>>> the back, if it has a sf rating it is better than anything available when
>>>>> it was new. If not I wouldn't use it.
>>>>>
>>>>> 15w40 is what I use, but mostly because it is easy to find.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>>   Henry Miller
>>>>>   hank at millerfarm.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03, Howard Fleming wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Happy 4th all. Have some questions I hope you'll can help me with.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bought this home yesterday:
>>>>>
>>>>> Looking for general suggestions of things to check, and
>>>>> recommendations on oil (engine, transmission and hydraulic).
>>>>>
>>>>> So far, I have changed the oil, using 10w-20 oil to get it running and
>>>>> home.  I plan on switching to a diesel rated oil, what oil and rating would
>>>>> you recommend?  Manual calls for 10w in the winter, and 20w in the summer,
>>>>> but things have changed since then.
>>>>>
>>>>> While changing the engine oil filter, found that the lower and upper
>>>>> plates are missing, I have replacements for them on the way.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ignition switch needs to be replaced (or repaired), it is not
>>>>> supplying power to the coil, but otherwise is working.  Generator is
>>>>> charging the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> Other than the ignition switch (and lights), and possibly the
>>>>> temperature gauge for the engine, everything appears to be working.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Howard
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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>>> --
>>> --
>>>
>>> Francis Robinson
>>> aka "farmer"
>>> Central Indiana USA
>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>>
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