[AT] Questions on a 1953 John Deere M

Wed Jul 7 07:35:23 PDT 2021

Howard,
Not sure if it's just my bad luck, but I'd check the bushing between the
governor and the block. It is just a flat washer shape and subject to wear.
I have a 40C that it disappeared in and destroyed the governor (and
probably the block). The replacement engine was well worn, but had not yet
caused damage.

Dave

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 9:08 AM hfleming <hfleming at moosebird.net> wrote:

> Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil.  I suspect I will go with
> 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already using it in the 72 IH 1300 I
> have, along with a 48 Ford 8N.  If oil pressure becomes a problem will look
> at straight 30W.
>
> Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find out.  I do know
> the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder is damaged, so I am going to have
> to deal with the shortly, along with the brakes that barely work at the
> moment (oil soaked) and the front axle pivot bushing that appear to no
> longer exist.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Howard
>
>
> On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> Seriously, farmer?  ;-)
>
> Well, if so, I'd say no.  One reason is that, once upon a time, full synth
> oils gained a reputation for creating leakers (from memory, not reliable).
> The chemistry was not fully compatible with the elastomers used in the
> seals.  Here in the modern day you don't hear about that any more.  I don't
> know if the elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has changed.  If
> it's the modern seals that keep synth from leaking, then, I guess you don't
> want to expose old seals to it.
>
> And the best applications for the higher-cost full synth oils are those
> with real temperature extremes.  It flows better at extreme cold
> temperatures, and it resists cooking at extreme high temperatures (like you
> find in modern turbocharged engines).
>
> SO
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:21 PM Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve:
>> I would be interested in your thoughts on using full synthetic oils in
>> such an engine...
>> The cost difference is actually minimal in the larger picture unless it
>> is a big burner or leaker. My father used to joke that some of those old
>> tractors with big oil filler openings needed them so that they could stop
>> every round and quickly pour in more oil out of a milk can...  :-)
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would not use a thin oil in an old and presumably worn engine.  I
>>> think 15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great choice.  Aside from the brands
>>> mentioned, you can also find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most places
>>> (like Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA, etc).  Then again, the benefit of
>>> straight-weight oil is that there's more oil in there vs multi-viscosity.
>>> The "viscosity improver" additives take up significant volume.  I'd still
>>> avoid thin stuff, climate dependent.  I still see straight SAE 30 and 40 on
>>> the store shelves; haven't seen 10 or 20 in quite a while.
>>>
>>> SO
>>>
>>> SO
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40. Pretty cheap at Wally World or
>>>> Rural King.
>>>>
>>>> Mike M
>>>>
>>>> On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Awww yes, the old oil debate.
>>>>
>>>> Diesel oil is recommended because some of them have a sf rating which
>>>> is better for your engine than the modern sj rating. Read the fine print on
>>>> the back, if it has a sf rating it is better than anything available when
>>>> it was new. If not I wouldn't use it.
>>>>
>>>> 15w40 is what I use, but mostly because it is easy to find.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>   Henry Miller
>>>>   hank at millerfarm.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03, Howard Fleming wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Happy 4th all. Have some questions I hope you'll can help me with.
>>>>
>>>> Bought this home yesterday:
>>>>
>>>> Looking for general suggestions of things to check, and recommendations
>>>> on oil (engine, transmission and hydraulic).
>>>>
>>>> So far, I have changed the oil, using 10w-20 oil to get it running and
>>>> home.  I plan on switching to a diesel rated oil, what oil and rating would
>>>> you recommend?  Manual calls for 10w in the winter, and 20w in the summer,
>>>> but things have changed since then.
>>>>
>>>> While changing the engine oil filter, found that the lower and upper
>>>> plates are missing, I have replacements for them on the way.
>>>>
>>>> Ignition switch needs to be replaced (or repaired), it is not supplying
>>>> power to the coil, but otherwise is working.  Generator is charging the
>>>> battery.
>>>>
>>>> Other than the ignition switch (and lights), and possibly the
>>>> temperature gauge for the engine, everything appears to be working.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Howard
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>
>>
>> --
>> --
>>
>> Francis Robinson
>> aka "farmer"
>> Central Indiana USA
>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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