<div dir="ltr">Straight 30 is thinner than 15W-40 when the engine is at operating temperature.<div><br></div><div>SO</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 7:48 AM hfleming <<a href="mailto:hfleming@moosebird.net">hfleming@moosebird.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana,Geneva,sans-serif">
<p>Thanks all for your input on the tractor oil. I suspect I will go with 15W-40 diesel rated oil, since I am already using it in the 72 IH 1300 I have, along with a 48 Ford 8N. If oil pressure becomes a problem will look at straight 30W.<br> <br> Not sure how worn the engine is, tho I suspect I will find out. I do know the sparkplug thread on the rear cylinder is damaged, so I am going to have to deal with the shortly, along with the brakes that barely work at the moment (oil soaked) and the front axle pivot bushing that appear to no longer exist.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Howard</p>
<p><br></p>
<div>On 7/6/21 12:42 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:</div>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding:0px 0.4em;border-left:2px solid rgb(16,16,255);margin:0px">
<div dir="ltr">Seriously, farmer? ;-)
<div> </div>
<div>Well, if so, I'd say no. One reason is that, once upon a time, full synth oils gained a reputation for creating leakers (from memory, not reliable). The chemistry was not fully compatible with the elastomers used in the seals. Here in the modern day you don't hear about that any more. I don't know if the elastomers have changed or the synth chemistry has changed. If it's the modern seals that keep synth from leaking, then, I guess you don't want to expose old seals to it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>And the best applications for the higher-cost full synth oils are those with real temperature extremes. It flows better at extreme cold temperatures, and it resists cooking at extreme high temperatures (like you find in modern turbocharged engines).</div>
<div> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 12:21 PM Indiana Robinson <<a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank">robinson46176@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Hi Steve:</div>
<div>I would be interested in your thoughts on using full synthetic oils in such an engine...</div>
<div>The cost difference is actually minimal in the larger picture unless it is a big burner or leaker. My father used to joke that some of those old tractors with big oil filler openings needed them so that they could stop every round and quickly pour in more oil out of a milk can... :-)</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 7:36 AM Stephen Offiler <<a href="mailto:soffiler@gmail.com" target="_blank">soffiler@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">I would not use a thin oil in an old and presumably worn engine. I think 15W-40 diesel rated oil is a great choice. Aside from the brands mentioned, you can also find off-brand budget-friendly oil at most places (like Tractor Supply, Runnings, NAPA, etc). Then again, the benefit of straight-weight oil is that there's more oil in there vs multi-viscosity. The "viscosity improver" additives take up significant volume. I'd still avoid thin stuff, climate dependent. I still see straight SAE 30 and 40 on the store shelves; haven't seen 10 or 20 in quite a while.</div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div dir="ltr"> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div> </div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 2:41 PM Mike M <<a href="mailto:meulenms@gmx.com" target="_blank">meulenms@gmx.com</a>> wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>I like Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40. Pretty cheap at Wally World or Rural King.<br> <br> Mike M<br> <br>
<div>On 7/4/2021 12:11 PM, Henry Miller wrote:</div>
<blockquote type="cite" style="padding:0px 0.4em;border-left:2px solid rgb(16,16,255);margin:0px">
<div style="font-family:Arial">Awww yes, the old oil debate. </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial">Diesel oil is recommended because some of them have a sf rating which is better for your engine than the modern sj rating. Read the fine print on the back, if it has a sf rating it is better than anything available when it was new. If not I wouldn't use it. </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial">15w40 is what I use, but mostly because it is easy to find. </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div id="gmail-m_-75980844583658738gmail-m_5616827899536387956gmail-m_1727168744348615256gmail-m_-8301065807030119371sig11221025">
<div>-- </div>
<div> Henry Miller</div>
<div> <a href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com" target="_blank">hank@millerfarm.com</a></div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div style="font-family:Arial"> </div>
<div>On Sun, Jul 4, 2021, at 10:03, Howard Fleming wrote:</div>
<blockquote id="gmail-m_-75980844583658738gmail-m_5616827899536387956gmail-m_1727168744348615256gmail-m_-8301065807030119371qt">
<div>Happy 4th all. Have some questions I hope you'll can help me with.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Bought this home yesterday:</div>
<div><img></div>
<div> </div>
<div>Looking for general suggestions of things to check, and recommendations on oil (engine, transmission and hydraulic).</div>
<div> </div>
<div>So far, I have changed the oil, using 10w-20 oil to get it running and home. I plan on switching to a diesel rated oil, what oil and rating would you recommend? Manual calls for 10w in the winter, and 20w in the summer, but things have changed since then.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>While changing the engine oil filter, found that the lower and upper plates are missing, I have replacements for them on the way.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Ignition switch needs to be replaced (or repaired), it is not supplying power to the coil, but otherwise is working. Generator is charging the battery.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Other than the ignition switch (and lights), and possibly the temperature gauge for the engine, everything appears to be working.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div>Howard</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
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<div>-- <br> <br> Francis Robinson<br> aka "farmer"<br> Central Indiana USA<br> <a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> </div>
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