[AT] tractor electrical question

[John Hall]

Ken I HIGHLY suggest joining the Facebook Group Ford Mustangs, First 
Generation The Early Years...1964.5, 1965, 1966 | Facebook 
<https://www.facebook.com/groups/1965mustangs>
No BS in that group, amazing restorations and knowledge.

John Hall


On 8/28/2021 11:39 AM, Ken Knierim wrote:
> John,
>     Sorry I didn't get on it sooner.  I learned about that wiring 
> issue from my Dad 40 years ago and actually had to teach my son about 
> that ignition wiring as we're building him a '65 Rustang.
> OK, I'm learning body work and trying to make it into a Mustang. 
> (Youtube Fitzee's Fabrications and get yourself a cold drink)
>
> Glad you got it figured out.
>
> Ken in AZ
>
> On Fri, Aug 27, 2021 at 8:27 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com 
> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     Ken, you summed this situation up perfectly, right down to the pink
>     resistor wire. Everything I researched in 2 days you put into 2
>     paragraphs, right down to what the wire is made of!
>
>     John Hall
>
>
>     On 8/27/2021 9:21 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:
>     > On the 1960's Ford vehicles (and others, I'm sure) they had a
>     wire in
>     > the harness that was specifically resistive which seems to match
>     some
>     > of the descriptions given. If wire has 12V on one end and 6V on the
>     > other end going into the coil, it's like having the resistor
>     inline.
>     > The vehicles had a wire from the solenoid to the coil that would
>     > bypass the resistive element in the harness by going straight to
>     the
>     > battery for starting purposes, giving full battery voltage (albeit
>     > drawn down by the starter) to make the spark hotter (since the
>     battery
>     > voltage would drop severely during cranking it made starting hard).
>     > The coils were set up to run on 6-8 volts to make this work. If
>     this
>     > is the same in your tractor application it could be part of what
>     > you're seeing. These wires are generally nichrome wire and have
>     a few
>     > ohms to them (should be enough to measure on a DVM if disconnected
>     > from the rest of the circuit; it should be similar to a resistor
>     > inline as it does the same function). Nichrome wire is pretty
>     > resilient to aging but connecting to it (with perhaps a crimp
>     > connector or something like that) could be a problem over time.
>     >    Since you're able to get the thing to work correctly with a
>     jumper
>     > from the battery it seems there is resistance somewhere. I think
>     you
>     > mentioned having 12V at the switch but 6V at the coil when sitting
>     > still and the points closed. That sounds like a resistive wire
>     in the
>     > harness. My thinking would be to run a new wire from the switch,
>     > through a regular ballast resistor and to the coil to bypass the
>     > potentially bad resistive wire in the harness (it may be heating up
>     > and the connections giving you fits).
>     >
>     > Just my $0.02 but those pink Ford wires hosed a lot of folks
>     over the
>     > years.... :)
>     >
>     > Ken in AZ
>     >
>
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