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Ken I HIGHLY suggest joining the Facebook Group <a
href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/1965mustangs">Ford Mustangs,
First Generation The Early Years...1964.5, 1965, 1966 | Facebook </a><br>
No BS in that group, amazing restorations and knowledge.<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/28/2021 11:39 AM, Ken Knierim
wrote:<br>
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<div>John,</div>
<div> Sorry I didn't get on it sooner. I learned about that
wiring issue from my Dad 40 years ago and actually had to
teach my son about that ignition wiring as we're building him
a '65 Rustang. <br>
</div>
<div>OK, I'm learning body work and trying to make it into a
Mustang. (Youtube Fitzee's Fabrications and get yourself a
cold drink) <br>
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<div><br>
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<div>Glad you got it figured out. <br>
</div>
<div><br>
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<div>Ken in AZ<br>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 27, 2021 at 8:27
PM John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Ken,
you summed this situation up perfectly, right down to the pink
<br>
resistor wire. Everything I researched in 2 days you put into
2 <br>
paragraphs, right down to what the wire is made of!<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/27/2021 9:21 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:<br>
> On the 1960's Ford vehicles (and others, I'm sure) they
had a wire in <br>
> the harness that was specifically resistive which seems
to match some <br>
> of the descriptions given. If wire has 12V on one end and
6V on the <br>
> other end going into the coil, it's like having the
resistor inline. <br>
> The vehicles had a wire from the solenoid to the coil
that would <br>
> bypass the resistive element in the harness by going
straight to the <br>
> battery for starting purposes, giving full battery
voltage (albeit <br>
> drawn down by the starter) to make the spark hotter
(since the battery <br>
> voltage would drop severely during cranking it made
starting hard). <br>
> The coils were set up to run on 6-8 volts to make this
work. If this <br>
> is the same in your tractor application it could be part
of what <br>
> you're seeing. These wires are generally nichrome wire
and have a few <br>
> ohms to them (should be enough to measure on a DVM if
disconnected <br>
> from the rest of the circuit; it should be similar to a
resistor <br>
> inline as it does the same function). Nichrome wire is
pretty <br>
> resilient to aging but connecting to it (with perhaps a
crimp <br>
> connector or something like that) could be a problem over
time.<br>
> Since you're able to get the thing to work correctly
with a jumper <br>
> from the battery it seems there is resistance somewhere.
I think you <br>
> mentioned having 12V at the switch but 6V at the coil
when sitting <br>
> still and the points closed. That sounds like a resistive
wire in the <br>
> harness. My thinking would be to run a new wire from the
switch, <br>
> through a regular ballast resistor and to the coil to
bypass the <br>
> potentially bad resistive wire in the harness (it may be
heating up <br>
> and the connections giving you fits).<br>
><br>
> Just my $0.02 but those pink Ford wires hosed a lot of
folks over the <br>
> years.... :)<br>
><br>
> Ken in AZ<br>
><br>
<br>
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