<div dir="ltr">If it were me , I would spend a little money on an electronic ign. and do away with the points . That usually solves the problem 99% of the time . The only problem with that is , if you ever forget and leave your switch on , it will fry a lot of things . <div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 7:33 AM Aaron Dickinson <<a href="mailto:a_dickinson@att.net">a_dickinson@att.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">




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<div dir="ltr" style="font-family:Calibri,"Segoe UI",Meiryo,"Microsoft YaHei UI","Microsoft JhengHei UI","Malgun Gothic",sans-serif;font-size:12pt">
<div>That tractor is a little new for me, but are any of the safety switches inline with that supply. If the switch is a contact switch there could be corrosion on the contacts causing them to heat while running and possibly bleed off voltage? Our zero turn mower has a seat switch in the seat that literally gives you a hot seat.<br></div><div><div><br></div><div>Aaron Dickinson</div><div>Mason, MI</div><div><br></div></div><div style="padding-top:5px;border-top:1px solid rgb(229,229,229)"><div><font face="'Calibri', 'Segoe UI', 'Meiryo', 'Microsoft YaHei UI', 'Microsoft JhengHei UI', 'Malgun Gothic', 'sans-serif'" style="line-height:15pt;letter-spacing:0.02em;font-family:Calibri,"Segoe UI",Meiryo,"Microsoft YaHei UI","Microsoft JhengHei UI","Malgun Gothic",sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" target="_blank">John Hall</a><br><b>Sent:</b> ‎Thursday‎, ‎August‎ ‎26‎, ‎2021 ‎12‎:‎00‎ ‎AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank">Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group</a></font></div></div><div><br></div><div dir="">
    There is a wire tied in from the starter solenoid also. You would
    assume a new OEM coil to be good but who knows. All I know is it
    acts the same with both coils. I will note that the new coil had to
    be rotated 180 in the bracket to get it to hook up. The power is
    going in the plus side, just like schematic shows. Maybe they just
    put it in wrong at factory?<br>
    <br>
    John<br>
    <br>
    <div>On 8/25/2021 11:52 PM, Jason wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote style="margin-top:0px;margin-bottom:0px">
      
      <div dir="auto">Generally most coils have a resistor before them
        to lower the voltage so they don't burn up the points. Some
        applications have a booster wire from the small  terminal on the
        starter solenoid. Since there is a voltage drop when cranking,
        this booster wire temporarily raises the voltage to help during
        starting.
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">If everything else is fine. A coil that fails as
          it warms up is a coil getting close, to well, failing.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Jason</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 10:22 PM
          Howard Pletcher <<a href="mailto:hrpletch@gmail.com" target="_blank">hrpletch@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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          <div dir="ltr">
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Is that the original
              coil?</div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">I'm not familiar
              with the 454, but in the truck world, most coils are
              intended for 6V use.  There is a resistor wire in the
              harness that drops the voltage while the current is
              flowing with the points closed.  But there are also coils
              intended for 12V use with no resistor wire.  If that is
              not the original coil, perhaps you have the wrong one.</div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Since it seems to
              work fine with 12V applied, I'd probably run another wire
              from the ignition switch to the coil to bypass any
              possible resistor wire.</div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Howard</div>
          </div>
          <br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">
            <div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at
              11:08 PM John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204)"><br>
              If there is, I can't find it. Closes thing I have found is
              the <br>
              diode/rectifier for the alternator. Its inline and is tied
              in on this <br>
              particular "circuit" . Matter of fact, the side opposite
              the alternator <br>
              is where the fuel solenoid feeds from.<br>
              <br>
              John Hall<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              On 8/25/2021 11:05 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
              > Maybe there’s an external resistor?<br>
              ><br>
              > Spencer<br>
              ><br>
              > Sent from my iPhone<br>
              ><br>
              >> On Aug 25, 2021, at 10:35 PM, John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
              wrote:<br>
              >><br>
              >> Got what I hope is a simple question. On my IH
              454 tractor, is the voltage going to the coil a constant
              12V? I'm having some issues with it running bad when it
              gets hot (I've already replaced everything but the plug
              wires). Found out today that if I run a jumper wire from
              battery to the coil, the problem goes away. Take it off
              problem comes back, put it back it goes away, take it off,
              it comes back. So I am tracing the wiring but this one
              isn't simple, new enough there are tons of gauges, fuel
              solenoids, safety switches, etc. Anyway, if I check
              voltage at the coil, the fuel solenoid, and there is one
              small terminal on starter solenoid that all read 12V if
              the switch is on. If I bump the engine over slightly (I
              guess the pts are closing) then the coil and starter drop
              to just under 6V, fuel solenoid stays the same. So
              shouldn't there always be 12V at the coil?<br>
              >><br>
              >> John Hall<br>
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          <div><br>
          </div>
          -- <br>
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div dir="ltr">Howard</div>
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