[AT] OT, old implements and plasma cutters

[Cecil Bearden]

Warren:

I have that SL series torch.  The old torch took 2 tips, one for gouging 
and one for cutting.  The SL series takes a tip for each depth you 
intend on cutting.  I forget right now what the steps are, but when I am 
working on some project I might be cutting 1/8 metal and then 1/2in in 
the next 3 minutes.  The old torch just needed me to turn up the amps or 
turn it down.  Now I have to change tips also..  To me that is really 
not an upgrade.  I still have an Esab on 440 3 phase if anyone is 
interested.  The seller on Ebay was a shyster who was made to refund my 
money by Pay-pal, but it would have cost 1/2 of the refund to send it to 
his business and the business was not the same address as PayPal sent 
the original funds to.  So, I just kept it.  Who knows, it might work 
against Coronavirus...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cecil

On 5/18/2020 11:11 PM, Mogrits wrote:
> Thank you all for the responses. I remember when I first got this 
> Hardee cutter years ago and soon burned through the clutch discs with, 
> of all things, an AC/B. This list talked me through that then, and 
> again helps me bring this tough implement back. I had to drop $100.00 
> at Tractor supply today for a new yoke and the dad-gummed u-joint. 
> Those things are overpriced. I guess to look at it another way, a 
> bunch of goats sitting in the weeds the last 15 yrs would have cost 
> more than 100.00 to feed. I changed the u-joint in less than an hour 
> when it took about 4 to get the old out even having a bench vise and a 
> bearing press. I realized the removal compressed the yoke casting a 
> bit so if anyone has a suggestion on how to expand that so the lock 
> rings fit correctly I'-m all ears.
>
> Anyway, I looked into the yoke shaft, where the 1.25x1" shaft goes in 
> and will not go further. I see it is just a 6" long piece of 
> rectangular sleeve and after that it is the much larger round pipe 
> size, so that means the shaft won't go in the yoke/sleeve because it 
> is bent or twisted. So rather than cut it I am going to find a way to 
> straighten the shaft (after cleaning everything thoroughly) or 
> otherwise "persuade" it to go in- there is plenty of room in the yoke 
> for the excess shaft. All this has reinforced for me that when a 
> project frustrates you it is sometimes best to set it aside for 24 hrs 
> or longer and look again in a new light.
>
> As to the plasmacutter, I think Dennis Johnson is spot-on though you 
> are all correct. I need a new torch. something is wrong in there or 
> the hose which they most probably also damaged. I ordered the SL-40 
> torch handle to replace what my employees broke and it prompted an 
> email response from the vendor strongly suggesting an upgrade to the 
> SL-60 torh and hose assembly. I should have listened and ordered it, 
> and that's what I'll probably do.
>
> Thanks again you guys are great and I feel glad to know people would 
> dedicate the time it took to research these answers.
>
> Warren
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:24 AM <szabelski at wildblue.net 
> <mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net>> wrote:
>
>     Warren,
>
>     Right I sent the previous response it stopped raining, so I went
>     out the the rototiller and got the manual out of the “water proof”
>     container the manual is stored in. After pouring out the water I
>     brought the totally soaked manual into the house.
>
>     The following indicates how to cut the shaft and sleeve:
>
>     1. Attach both separated drive pieces to tractor and implement.
>     2. While holding the sleeve and shaft parallel, measure between
>     the back of both yokes.
>     3. Divide the measurement by 5. This is the minimum overlap required.
>     4. Multiply minimum overlap by 3. This is the required length of
>     sleeve and shaft.
>     5. From back of each yoke measure and mark required length on the
>     sleeve and shaft.
>     6. Cut sleeve and shaft at marks.
>     7. Deburr and grease sleeve and shaft before reassembly.
>
>     The following is a rough sketch of the diagram in the manual,
>     showing the 1/3 overlap.
>
>               1/3                    1/3                 1/3
>     O/——————/——————/——————/
>
>                                                    /  1/3 Overlap /
>                                                               1/3    
>              1/3                  1/3
>      /——————/——————/——————/O
>
>     The above indicates a 1/3 overlap like the previous response.
>
>     Carl
>
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com <mailto:mogrits at gmail.com>>
>     To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>     <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>     Sent: Sun, 17 May 2020 21:57:56 -0400 (EDT)
>     Subject: [AT] OT, old implements and plasma cutters
>
>     I have an off brand "bush hog", probably 60" that I have never
>     been happy
>     with. It's flimsy, the three point pins never align etc etc. It
>     has seen
>     some rough service I'm guessing as it came with the 53 Jubilee I
>     bought.
>     Anyway, I also have a 53" Hardee rotary cutter, made in Loris SC
>     that has
>     been at pasture for the last 15 yrs (at least). These Hardees are
>     really
>     tough implements so I decided to resurrect it even at loss of the
>     cutting
>     width. The tire was rotted when I parked it so a new one was
>     ordered which
>     arrives tomorrow., The PTO Coupler had been buried in the "mulch" that
>     developed on the deck such that the lock pin wouldn't open without
>     a hammer
>     and it wouldn't fit the splines on the Mahindra. On top of that,
>     the PTO
>     shaft appears to be too long. That's where my questions begin.
>     With some
>     difficulty I got the U-Joint out so I can replace the yoke. I
>     still have
>     about 10" of PTO shaft exposed and more than that of the PTO
>     sleeve but it
>     won't go up in there even with help from a come-a-long. I need
>     about 4"
>     more to get the shaft on the tractor. The shaft is rectangular-
>     1-1/4" x 1"
>     solid steel. Is it okay to just cut 4" off the shaft with a
>     porta-band?
>     Should I drop a couple hundred for a new shaft? The gearbox has a slip
>     clutch on the the top end so that would involve another u-joint
>     change. I
>     think there is no danger of the shaft coming loose with the implement
>     raised and lowered.
>
>     Plasma cutter: I have a Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 42 I bought new. It
>     worked until I gave it to employees to use on a jobsite and they
>     dropped
>     the torch and broke it. I replaced the torch and it still doesn't
>     work. Is
>     anyone familiar with this model? It powers up, releases air, then
>     defaults
>     to an error mode indicating torch parts are not right but I have
>     ascertained they are in fact in place.
>
>     Other than that, It's good to read the non-virus chatter on here.
>     Warren
>
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