[AT] OT, old implements and plasma cutters

Mon May 18 21:11:09 PDT 2020

Thank you all for the responses. I remember when I first got this Hardee
cutter years ago and soon burned through the clutch discs with, of all
things, an AC/B. This list talked me through that then, and again helps me
bring this tough implement back. I had to drop $100.00 at Tractor supply
today for a new yoke and the dad-gummed u-joint. Those things are
overpriced. I guess to look at it another way, a bunch of goats sitting in
the weeds the last 15 yrs would have cost more than 100.00 to feed. I
changed the u-joint in less than an hour when it took about 4 to get the
old out even having a bench vise and a bearing press. I realized the
removal compressed the yoke casting a bit so if anyone has a suggestion on
how to expand that so the lock rings fit correctly I'-m all ears.

Anyway, I looked into the yoke shaft, where the 1.25x1" shaft goes in and
will not go further. I see it is just a 6" long piece of rectangular sleeve
and after that it is the much larger round pipe size, so that means the
shaft won't go in the yoke/sleeve because it is bent or twisted. So rather
than cut it I am going to find a way to straighten the shaft (after
cleaning everything thoroughly) or otherwise "persuade" it to go in- there
is plenty of room in the yoke for the excess shaft. All this has reinforced
for me that when a project frustrates you it is sometimes best to set it
aside for 24 hrs or longer and look again in a new light.

As to the plasmacutter, I think Dennis Johnson is spot-on though you are
all correct. I need a new torch. something is wrong in there or the hose
which they most probably also damaged. I ordered the SL-40 torch handle to
replace what my employees broke and it prompted an email response from the
vendor strongly suggesting an upgrade to the SL-60 torh and hose assembly.
I should have listened and ordered it, and that's what I'll probably do.

Thanks again you guys are great and I feel glad to know people would
dedicate the time it took to research these answers.

Warren

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:24 AM <szabelski at wildblue.net> wrote:

> Warren,
>
> Right I sent the previous response it stopped raining, so I went out the
> the rototiller and got the manual out of the “water proof” container the
> manual is stored in. After pouring out the water I brought the totally
> soaked manual into the house.
>
> The following indicates how to cut the shaft and sleeve:
>
> 1. Attach both separated drive pieces to tractor and implement.
> 2. While holding the sleeve and shaft parallel, measure between the back
> of both yokes.
> 3. Divide the measurement by 5. This is the minimum overlap required.
> 4. Multiply minimum overlap by 3. This is the required length of sleeve
> and shaft.
> 5. From back of each yoke measure and mark required length on the sleeve
> and shaft.
> 6. Cut sleeve and shaft at marks.
> 7. Deburr and grease sleeve and shaft before reassembly.
>
> The following is a rough sketch of the diagram in the manual, showing the
> 1/3 overlap.
>
>           1/3                    1/3                 1/3
> O/——————/——————/——————/
>
>                                                /  1/3 Overlap  /
>                                                           1/3
>  1/3                  1/3
>                                                /——————/——————/——————/O
>
> The above indicates a 1/3 overlap like the previous response.
>
> Carl
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mogrits <mogrits at gmail.com>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sun, 17 May 2020 21:57:56 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: [AT] OT, old implements and plasma cutters
>
> I have an off brand "bush hog", probably 60" that I have never been happy
> with. It's flimsy, the three point pins never align etc etc. It has seen
> some rough service I'm guessing as it came with the 53 Jubilee I bought.
> Anyway, I also have a 53" Hardee rotary cutter, made in Loris SC that has
> been at pasture for the last 15 yrs (at least). These Hardees are really
> tough implements so I decided to resurrect it even at loss of the cutting
> width. The tire was rotted when I parked it so a new one was ordered which
> arrives tomorrow., The PTO Coupler had been buried in the "mulch" that
> developed on the deck such that the lock pin wouldn't open without a hammer
> and it wouldn't fit the splines on the Mahindra. On top of that, the PTO
> shaft appears to be too long. That's where my questions begin. With some
> difficulty I got the U-Joint out so I can replace the yoke. I still have
> about 10" of PTO shaft exposed and more than that of the PTO sleeve but it
> won't go up in there even with help from a come-a-long. I need about 4"
> more to get the shaft on the tractor. The shaft is rectangular- 1-1/4" x 1"
> solid steel. Is it okay to just cut 4" off the shaft with a porta-band?
> Should I drop a couple hundred for a new shaft? The gearbox has a slip
> clutch on the the top end so that would involve another u-joint change. I
> think there is no danger of the shaft coming loose with the implement
> raised and lowered.
>
> Plasma cutter: I have a Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 42 I bought new. It
> worked until I gave it to employees to use on a jobsite and they dropped
> the torch and broke it. I replaced the torch and it still doesn't work. Is
> anyone familiar with this model? It powers up, releases air, then defaults
> to an error mode indicating torch parts are not right but I have
> ascertained they are in fact in place.
>
> Other than that, It's good to read the non-virus chatter on here.
> Warren
>
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