<div dir="ltr">Thank you all for the responses. I remember when I first got this Hardee cutter years ago and soon burned through the clutch discs with, of all things, an AC/B. This list talked me through that then, and again helps me bring this tough implement back. I had to drop $100.00 at Tractor supply today for a new yoke and the dad-gummed u-joint. Those things are overpriced. I guess to look at it another way, a bunch of goats sitting in the weeds the last 15 yrs would have cost more than 100.00 to feed. I changed the u-joint in less than an hour when it took about 4 to get the old out even having a bench vise and a bearing press. I realized the removal compressed the yoke casting a bit so if anyone has a suggestion on how to expand that so the lock rings fit correctly I'-m all ears.<div><br></div><div>Anyway, I looked into the yoke shaft, where the 1.25x1" shaft goes in and will not go further. I see it is just a 6" long piece of rectangular sleeve and after that it is the much larger round pipe size, so that means the shaft won't go in the yoke/sleeve because it is bent or twisted. So rather than cut it I am going to find a way to straighten the shaft (after cleaning everything thoroughly) or otherwise "persuade" it to go in- there is plenty of room in the yoke for the excess shaft. All this has reinforced for me that when a project frustrates you it is sometimes best to set it aside for 24 hrs or longer and look again in a new light.</div><div><br></div><div>As to the plasmacutter, I think Dennis Johnson is spot-on though you are all correct. I need a new torch. something is wrong in there or the hose which they most probably also damaged. I ordered the SL-40 torch handle to replace what my employees broke and it prompted an email response from the vendor strongly suggesting an upgrade to the SL-60 torh and hose assembly. I should have listened and ordered it, and that's what I'll probably do.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks again you guys are great and I feel glad to know people would dedicate the time it took to research these answers.</div><div><br></div><div>Warren</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:24 AM <<a href="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net">szabelski@wildblue.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Warren,<br>
<br>
Right I sent the previous response it stopped raining, so I went out the the rototiller and got the manual out of the “water proof” container the manual is stored in. After pouring out the water I brought the totally soaked manual into the house.<br>
<br>
The following indicates how to cut the shaft and sleeve:<br>
<br>
1. Attach both separated drive pieces to tractor and implement.<br>
2. While holding the sleeve and shaft parallel, measure between the back of both yokes.<br>
3. Divide the measurement by 5. This is the minimum overlap required.<br>
4. Multiply minimum overlap by 3. This is the required length of sleeve and shaft.<br>
5. From back of each yoke measure and mark required length on the sleeve and shaft.<br>
6. Cut sleeve and shaft at marks.<br>
7. Deburr and grease sleeve and shaft before reassembly.<br>
<br>
The following is a rough sketch of the diagram in the manual, showing the 1/3 overlap.<br>
<br>
1/3 1/3 1/3<br>
O/——————/——————/——————/<br>
<br>
/ 1/3 Overlap /<br>
1/3 1/3 1/3<br>
/——————/——————/——————/O<br>
<br>
The above indicates a 1/3 overlap like the previous response.<br>
<br>
Carl<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: Mogrits <<a href="mailto:mogrits@gmail.com" target="_blank">mogrits@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <<a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br>
Sent: Sun, 17 May 2020 21:57:56 -0400 (EDT)<br>
Subject: [AT] OT, old implements and plasma cutters<br>
<br>
I have an off brand "bush hog", probably 60" that I have never been happy<br>
with. It's flimsy, the three point pins never align etc etc. It has seen<br>
some rough service I'm guessing as it came with the 53 Jubilee I bought.<br>
Anyway, I also have a 53" Hardee rotary cutter, made in Loris SC that has<br>
been at pasture for the last 15 yrs (at least). These Hardees are really<br>
tough implements so I decided to resurrect it even at loss of the cutting<br>
width. The tire was rotted when I parked it so a new one was ordered which<br>
arrives tomorrow., The PTO Coupler had been buried in the "mulch" that<br>
developed on the deck such that the lock pin wouldn't open without a hammer<br>
and it wouldn't fit the splines on the Mahindra. On top of that, the PTO<br>
shaft appears to be too long. That's where my questions begin. With some<br>
difficulty I got the U-Joint out so I can replace the yoke. I still have<br>
about 10" of PTO shaft exposed and more than that of the PTO sleeve but it<br>
won't go up in there even with help from a come-a-long. I need about 4"<br>
more to get the shaft on the tractor. The shaft is rectangular- 1-1/4" x 1"<br>
solid steel. Is it okay to just cut 4" off the shaft with a porta-band?<br>
Should I drop a couple hundred for a new shaft? The gearbox has a slip<br>
clutch on the the top end so that would involve another u-joint change. I<br>
think there is no danger of the shaft coming loose with the implement<br>
raised and lowered.<br>
<br>
Plasma cutter: I have a Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 42 I bought new. It<br>
worked until I gave it to employees to use on a jobsite and they dropped<br>
the torch and broke it. I replaced the torch and it still doesn't work. Is<br>
anyone familiar with this model? It powers up, releases air, then defaults<br>
to an error mode indicating torch parts are not right but I have<br>
ascertained they are in fact in place.<br>
<br>
Other than that, It's good to read the non-virus chatter on here.<br>
Warren<br>
<br>
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</blockquote></div>