[AT] Rear main seals

[Jim Becker]

My first thought was the same as what Bo said.  However, I realized I was thinking about a felt seal, not jute.  Jute is a plant fiber that is twisted into a rope.  Felt is compressed wool that grew on an animal.

Jute rope seals have to be squeezed into shape to fit into the groove then pressed the other direction to pack it in.  After all that, the ends do need to be cut off flush with the casting.  (The Continental maintenance manual spells this out.)  Felt seals, on the other hand, are die-cut to a reasonable degree of precision.  They are made with a predetermined proper amount of material.  After installation, they should be just a bit above the casting.  That projection should be left so there will be a bit of compression when it is assembled.

Either material should be soaked with oil.  By the way, I think 10 to 20 years life is about all one should expect from either style.

Jim Becker

From: Bo Hinch 
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 6:52 AM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group 
Subject: Re: [AT] Rear main seals

About 70 years ago,  I was taught to Not cut the rope ends but to pack All of it into the channels and I  promise you want have a oil leak . 


On Fri, Mar 20, 2020, 8:50 PM rbrooks at hvc.rr.com <rbrooks at hvc.rr.com> wrote:

  Spencer 

  That is the way I was taught to do it as well. The guy that showed me how built sprint car and midget race car engines back in the 40’, 50’s and 60’s. He had a shop in Gasoline Alley in Patterson NJ

  Bob


  Sent from my iPhone


    On Mar 19, 2020, at 11:01 PM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:


    Thanks Cecil.  I never have done that, but will certainly do that on the repair.


    Sent from my iPhone


      On Mar 19, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:


       
      I usually soak the seals in light oil for at least  1/2 day.  Then when I get them totally pushed into the slot, I cut the ends off flush with the cap with a razor blade.   Then I use a little silicone on a screwdriver to put some on the end of the bottom seal when I put them together.  This is the way we did it in the tractor shop years ago.  However at that time we used 3M weatherstrip sealer..  It still works great too.  
      Cecil


      On 3/19/2020 6:23 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:

        The pacer has developed a fairly significant rear main seal leak after 20+ years.  It’s gotten to the I have to have pizza boxes underneath it.  My luck with the old tar rope rear main seals has been spotty at best so I wanted to outline my procedures and see what I might be doing wrong. 


        I first gently use a wooden dowel to create a bit of an oblong shape and then snug the pair into the block and  the rear main seal carrier.  Then I gently fray the ends of both ropes.  Nothing serious, just open them up a bit This I was taught to ensure the intersections interleave and there’s no significant leaks at the two intersections.  


        Then I attach the rear main carrier and inspect closely, making sure the ends interlace nicely and there are no gaps.


        In just about every case I can expect leaks to begin with in 10 years and replacement time to show up within 20.


        I must be doing something wrong.  What’s everybody else’s technique for this?


        PS:  If the tractor is a show queen I typically don’t have problems. But if you remember of the pacer has been on duty its entire life since it’s restoration discing fields, helping with hay, etc.


        Spencer





        Sent from my iPhone

         
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