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<DIV>My first thought was the same as what Bo said. However, I realized I
was thinking about a felt seal, not jute. Jute is a plant fiber that is
twisted into a rope. Felt is compressed wool that grew on an animal.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jute rope seals have to be squeezed into shape to fit into the groove then
pressed the other direction to pack it in. After all that, the ends do
need to be cut off flush with the casting. (The Continental maintenance
manual spells this out.) Felt seals, on the other hand, are die-cut to a
reasonable degree of precision. They are made with a predetermined proper
amount of material. After installation, they should be just a bit above
the casting. That projection should be left so there will be a bit of
compression when it is assembled.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Either material should be soaked with oil. By the way, I think 10 to
20 years life is about all one should expect from either style.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jim Becker</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=bohinch@gmail.com>Bo
Hinch</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 21, 2020 6:52 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=at@lists.antique-tractor.com>Antique Tractor Email
Discussion Group</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [AT] Rear main seals</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>About 70 years ago, I was taught to Not cut the rope ends but to pack
All of it into the channels and I promise you want have a oil leak .
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Fri, Mar 20, 2020, 8:50 PM
<A>rbrooks@hvc.rr.com</A> <<A>rbrooks@hvc.rr.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>Spencer
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>That is the way I was taught to do it as well. The guy that showed me how
built sprint car and midget race car engines back in the 40’, 50’s and 60’s.
He had a shop in Gasoline Alley in Patterson NJ</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob<BR><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr>Sent from my iPhone</DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">On Mar 19, 2020, at 11:01 PM, Spencer Yost <<A
rel=noreferrer target=_blank>spencer@rdfarms.com</A>>
wrote:<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr>Thanks Cecil. I never have done that, but will certainly
do that on the repair.<BR><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr>Sent from my iPhone</DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">On Mar 19, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Cecil Bearden <<A
rel=noreferrer target=_blank>crbearden@copper.net</A>>
wrote:<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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<P>I usually soak the seals in light oil for at least 1/2 day.
Then when I get them totally pushed into the slot, I cut the ends off
flush with the cap with a razor blade. Then I use a little
silicone on a screwdriver to put some on the end of the bottom seal when I
put them together. This is the way we did it in the tractor shop
years ago. However at that time we used 3M weatherstrip
sealer.. It still works great too. <BR>Cecil<BR></P>
<DIV>On 3/19/2020 6:23 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">The pacer has developed a fairly significant
rear main seal leak after 20+ years. It’s gotten to the I have to
have pizza boxes underneath it. <SPAN style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">My
luck with the old tar rope rear main seals has been spotty at best so I
wanted to outline my procedures and see what I might be doing
wrong.</SPAN>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN>I first gently use a wooden dowel to
create a bit of an oblong shape and then snug the pair into the block
and the rear main seal carrier. </SPAN></FONT><SPAN
style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Then I gently fray the ends of both
ropes. Nothing serious, just open them up a bit This I was taught
to ensure the intersections interleave and there’s no significant leaks
at the two intersections. </SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN>Then I attach the rear main carrier and
inspect closely, making sure the ends interlace nicely and there are no
gaps.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN>In just about every case I can expect
leaks to begin with in 10 years and replacement time to show up within
20.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN>I must be doing something wrong.
What’s everybody else’s technique for this?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN>PS: If the tractor is a show queen
I typically don’t have problems. But if you remember of the pacer has
been on duty its entire life since it’s restoration discing fields,
helping with hay, etc.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN>Spencer</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000><SPAN><BR></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr>Sent from my
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