[AT] Rear main seals

Bo Hinch bohinch at gmail.com
Sat Mar 21 04:52:58 PDT 2020


About 70 years ago,  I was taught to Not cut the rope ends but to pack All
of it into the channels and I  promise you want have a oil leak .


On Fri, Mar 20, 2020, 8:50 PM rbrooks at hvc.rr.com <rbrooks at hvc.rr.com> wrote:

> Spencer
>
> That is the way I was taught to do it as well. The guy that showed me how
> built sprint car and midget race car engines back in the 40’, 50’s and
> 60’s. He had a shop in Gasoline Alley in Patterson NJ
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 19, 2020, at 11:01 PM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Cecil.  I never have done that, but will certainly do that on the
> repair.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 19, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I usually soak the seals in light oil for at least  1/2 day.  Then when I
> get them totally pushed into the slot, I cut the ends off flush with the
> cap with a razor blade.   Then I use a little silicone on a screwdriver to
> put some on the end of the bottom seal when I put them together.  This is
> the way we did it in the tractor shop years ago.  However at that time we
> used 3M weatherstrip sealer..  It still works great too.
> Cecil
> On 3/19/2020 6:23 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>
> The pacer has developed a fairly significant rear main seal leak after 20+
> years.  It’s gotten to the I have to have pizza boxes underneath it.  My
> luck with the old tar rope rear main seals has been spotty at best so I
> wanted to outline my procedures and see what I might be doing wrong.
>
>  I first gently use a wooden dowel to create a bit of an oblong shape and
> then snug the pair into the block and  the rear main seal carrier.  Then
> I gently fray the ends of both ropes.  Nothing serious, just open them up a
> bit This I was taught to ensure the intersections interleave and there’s no
> significant leaks at the two intersections.
>
> Then I attach the rear main carrier and inspect closely, making sure the
> ends interlace nicely and there are no gaps.
>
> In just about every case I can expect leaks to begin with in 10 years and
> replacement time to show up within 20.
>
> I must be doing something wrong.  What’s everybody else’s technique for
> this?
>
> PS:  If the tractor is a show queen I typically don’t have problems. But
> if you remember of the pacer has been on duty its entire life since it’s
> restoration discing fields, helping with hay, etc.
>
> Spencer
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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