<div dir="auto">About 70 years ago, I was taught to Not cut the rope ends but to pack All of it into the channels and I promise you want have a oil leak .<div dir="auto"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Mar 20, 2020, 8:50 PM <a href="mailto:rbrooks@hvc.rr.com">rbrooks@hvc.rr.com</a> <<a href="mailto:rbrooks@hvc.rr.com">rbrooks@hvc.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Spencer<div><br></div><div>That is the way I was taught to do it as well. The guy that showed me how built sprint car and midget race car engines back in the 40’, 50’s and 60’s. He had a shop in Gasoline Alley in Patterson NJ</div><div><br></div><div>Bob<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Mar 19, 2020, at 11:01 PM, Spencer Yost <<a href="mailto:spencer@rdfarms.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">spencer@rdfarms.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">Thanks Cecil. I never have done that, but will certainly do that on the repair.<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Mar 19, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Cecil Bearden <<a href="mailto:crbearden@copper.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">crbearden@copper.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
<p>I usually soak the seals in light oil for at least 1/2 day.
Then when I get them totally pushed into the slot, I cut the ends
off flush with the cap with a razor blade. Then I use a little
silicone on a screwdriver to put some on the end of the bottom
seal when I put them together. This is the way we did it in the
tractor shop years ago. However at that time we used 3M
weatherstrip sealer.. It still works great too. <br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div>On 3/19/2020 6:23 PM, Spencer Yost
wrote:<br>
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The pacer has developed a fairly significant rear main seal leak
after 20+ years. It’s gotten to the I have to have pizza boxes
underneath it. <span style="color:rgb(0,0,0)">My luck with the old tar rope rear main seals has
been spotty at best so I wanted to outline my procedures and see
what I might be doing wrong.</span>
<div><font color="#000000"><span><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span> I first gently use a wooden dowel to create a bit of
an oblong shape and then snug the pair into the block and
the rear main seal carrier. </span></font><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0)">Then I
gently fray the ends of both ropes. Nothing serious, just
open them up a bit This I was taught to ensure the
intersections interleave and there’s no significant leaks at
the two intersections. </span></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span>Then I attach the rear main carrier and inspect
closely, making sure the ends interlace nicely and there are
no gaps.</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span>In just about every case I can expect leaks to begin
with in 10 years and replacement time to show up within 20.</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span>I must be doing something wrong. What’s everybody
else’s technique for this?</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span>PS: If the tractor is a show queen I typically don’t
have problems. But if you remember of the pacer has been on
duty its entire life since it’s restoration discing fields,
helping with hay, etc.</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><span>Spencer</span></font></div>
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<div dir="ltr">Sent
from my iPhone</div>
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