[AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the Resurrection Begin!

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Tue Mar 17 09:15:11 PDT 2020 

If I am working on a frozen shaft such as a pedal, if it doesn't have a 
grease zerk, then I drill it and install one.  There are some press in 
zerks that can be driven in if you don't want to try to tap the hole.  
If the zerk gets heated too  much, the spring in the ball might be 
toast. However, it will still take grease.  If you have one of those 
grease zerk fitting tools that injects grease into frozen zerks, that 
works great with penetrating oil or a mix of ATF.  If you have one of 
those tools that runs off your air impact hammer, it will drive oil into 
the space even better.
Cecil

On 3/17/2020 10:43 AM, jdnut at aol.com wrote:
> Steve,
> I second the advice below.  I just disassembled four stuck brakes from 
> two different 40 era Deere BO tractors.  The adjustment was rusted 
> tight on all four, three had stuck brake lever shafts.  Heat, 
> penetrating oil, and patience is my suggestion for the brake lever 
> shaft.  I would heat for a bit, start to let cool, and then add the 
> penetrating oil.  Then, I took a rubber mallet and tried to fairly 
> gently pound the brake lever a bit in each direction.  It pounds out a 
> lot easier if you can get to the point where it can be rocked back and 
> forth a bit.  Regarding the adjustment screw, same thing, though about 
> halfway through the process I obtained a 7/16 8 point impact socket. 
>  A few reps with my 1100 foot pounds impact wrench (though I didn't go 
> full force) in going both directions managed to break those loose 
> fairly easily, again, after several days of gentle heat and 
> penetrating oil.  If you turn the thing with the conical part of the 
> adjustment screw up, there is a little well that you can put the 
> penetrating oil in, and when it runs through, you know it will come 
> loose.  On mine, most of the little pins that run against the 
> adjustment screw were also frozen, so the oil on them helps also. 
>  Good luck, I was allocating a week for each, some got done sooner.
>
> Take care,
> John in Ferndale
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: szabelski <szabelski at wildblue.net>
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tue, Mar 17, 2020 7:25 am
> Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the 
> Resurrection Begin!
>
> Steve,
>
> One thing that I’ve done to get stuck threaded parts out of a housing 
> was to take a propane torch and heat up the housing where the threaded 
> item was installed. Just concentrate the heat on the housing for 10 to 
> 15 minutes. Keep the torch pointed at one area, it’s not necessary to 
> apply heat all the way around the threaded hole. This will cause the 
> threaded hole in the housing to open up slightly and you should be 
> able to get the adjuster to start turning. No need to get the whole 
> housing heated up, just at the threaded hole.
>
> As an option, soak the adjuster like your doing, but when you try 
> turning it out, work it back and forth with some force. An impact 
> wrench is good for this, but if I’m not wrong, the adjuster is square 
> and you’d have to figure out how to make some kind of square socket 
> for the impact wrench.
>
> Carl
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Sent: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 08:06:17 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the 
> Resurrection Begin!
>
> Dean's message remind me that I need to report on my progress.
>
> Despite rain, cold, and competing responsibilities, the A is in my 
> driveway.  I suspect that the distributor will be the least of my worries.
>
> Priorities:
> -Unstick the right brake.  In order to get the tractor off the 
> trailer, I had to pull the brake shaft out of the drive housing.  The 
> adjuster, at the least, is stuck. Unfortunately, the disassembly 
> process requires a working adjuster (according to the book).  I am 
> soaking it with penetrant and waiting on some dry weather to coincide 
> with being off work.  since there is virtually no gap between the 
> brake unit/backing plate and the drum with no other provision made for 
> loosening the shoes, I am not sure how I will get the unit/shoes out 
> of the drum.  I wish I could see inside.
> -Old gas.  The tractor must have sat for two years with gas in the 
> carb.  Opening the drain cock and turning on the valve at the sediment 
> bowl gives me just a drip--a varnish-smelling drip.  The sediment bowl 
> is new.  I am going to start taking pieces apart till I find the 
> blockage.  If I am unexpectedly blessed, it will be in the line or one 
> of the valves.  It could be crap in the tank, but I don't think so as 
> fuel seems to flow into the sediment bowl OK.  I dread trying to take 
> the carb apart because of the real possibility of breaking off the 
> stem inside the carb bowl.  I am told it ran not long ago . . . .  The 
> definition of "long" is somewhat amorphous.
> -Clean up all the electrical connections.  Everything is there and in 
> place, including a new generator belt and complete wiring and 
> connections.  Most of the connections are corroded, however, and will 
> need cleaning.  The battery needs to come out, and a new ground strap 
> needs to be installed--the current replacement is both too small and 
> wrongly mounted.  It should be bolted tot he case at the seat/battery 
> box mount but is only bolted to the box itself.
> -Check all fluids.  Quick inspection reveals no coolant in the 
> system.  I haven't checked the oil or drive fluid yet, and I first 
> need to drain the bottom of the crankcase and final drive of any 
> condensation/leakage.
>
> Plusses include straight sheet metal, brand new front tires, complete 
> condition, and evidence of maintenance and minimal wear.  The paint is 
> only a few years old and already fading, but the job is thorough if 
> not showy.  The rear ties are Goodyear Sure Grip Diamonds, but they 
> are in very poor shape from dry rot.  I think I can brush hog with 
> them--they hold air--but I hesitate to plow.  At least the rear wheels 
> (cast) are in very good shape--not a hint of fluid weight rot.
>
> Thanks again for all the info so far, and I will keep the list informed!
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
> Middle -o'-Nowhere, MO with a 2nd JD A (670,xxx).
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 10:47:25 -0700
> From: <deanvp at att.net>
> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
>     <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto
> Message-ID: <007301d5fbba$f54d2460$dfe76d20$@att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Our Show is over so I can now get back to this. All JD Two Cylinder 
> tractors with batteries left the factory with a positive ground 
> system. Whether the tractor is still configured that way is a crap 
> shoot. I haven?t looked at Pertronix systems for years so I am 
> completely out of date. Early on they did not produce Positive ground 
> systems for the JD tractors. In those days in order to use their 
> Electronic ignition systems the tractor had to be converted to a 
> negative ground system.  If they are producing positive ground systems 
> now that is good news. But ?. Using their web site to find an 
> applicable system for a JD Model A is an extreme exercise in 
> futility.  I would suggest contacting the owner of 
> https://brillman.com/ to get an  up to date picture of what might be 
> available from Pertronix for your particular Electronic Ignition 
> requirement.
>
> However, a properly repaired Magneto or Distributor will work just 
> fine on your JD A.  For Magneto parts and real kneadable information I 
> like working with http://www.magnetoparts.com/index.html Bill is an 
> Electrical Engineer that does his Magneto stuff as a side business. 
> Evenings and weekends.
>
> Dean VP
>
> Apache Junction, AZ
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