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<p>If I am working on a frozen shaft such as a pedal, if it doesn't
have a grease zerk, then I drill it and install one. There are
some press in zerks that can be driven in if you don't want to try
to tap the hole. If the zerk gets heated too much, the spring in
the ball might be toast. However, it will still take grease. If
you have one of those grease zerk fitting tools that injects
grease into frozen zerks, that works great with penetrating oil or
a mix of ATF. If you have one of those tools that runs off your
air impact hammer, it will drive oil into the space even better.
<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/17/2020 10:43 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jdnut@aol.com">jdnut@aol.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:773455998.4185077.1584459785946@mail.yahoo.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Steve,
<div>I second the advice below. I just disassembled four stuck
brakes from two different 40 era Deere BO tractors. The
adjustment was rusted tight on all four, three had stuck brake
lever shafts. Heat, penetrating oil, and patience is my
suggestion for the brake lever shaft. I would heat for a bit,
start to let cool, and then add the penetrating oil. Then, I
took a rubber mallet and tried to fairly gently pound the
brake lever a bit in each direction. It pounds out a lot
easier if you can get to the point where it can be rocked back
and forth a bit. Regarding the adjustment screw, same thing,
though about halfway through the process I obtained a 7/16 8
point impact socket. A few reps with my 1100 foot pounds
impact wrench (though I didn't go full force) in going both
directions managed to break those loose fairly easily, again,
after several days of gentle heat and penetrating oil. If you
turn the thing with the conical part of the adjustment screw
up, there is a little well that you can put the penetrating
oil in, and when it runs through, you know it will come loose.
On mine, most of the little pins that run against the
adjustment screw were also frozen, so the oil on them helps
also. Good luck, I was allocating a week for each, some got
done sooner. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Take care,</div>
<div>John in Ferndale<br>
<br>
<br>
<div
style="font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: szabelski <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:szabelski@wildblue.net"><szabelski@wildblue.net></a><br>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"><at@lists.antique-tractor.com></a><br>
Sent: Tue, Mar 17, 2020 7:25 am<br>
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the
Resurrection Begin!<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Steve,<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
One thing that I’ve done to get stuck threaded parts out
of a housing was to take a propane torch and heat up the
housing where the threaded item was installed. Just
concentrate the heat on the housing for 10 to 15 minutes.
Keep the torch pointed at one area, it’s not necessary to
apply heat all the way around the threaded hole. This will
cause the threaded hole in the housing to open up slightly
and you should be able to get the adjuster to start
turning. No need to get the whole housing heated up, just
at the threaded hole.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
As an option, soak the adjuster like your doing, but when
you try turning it out, work it back and forth with some
force. An impact wrench is good for this, but if I’m not
wrong, the adjuster is square and you’d have to figure out
how to make some kind of square socket for the impact
wrench.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Carl<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
----- Original Message -----<br clear="none">
From: STEVE ALLEN <<a shape="rect"
ymailto="mailto:steveallen855@centurytel.net"
rel="noopener noreferrer"
removedlink__60cfec2a-f990-4c74-a9fa-336fec0f0977__href="mailto:steveallen855@centurytel.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">steveallen855@centurytel.net</a>><br
clear="none">
To: <a shape="rect"
ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
rel="noopener noreferrer"
removedlink__60cfec2a-f990-4c74-a9fa-336fec0f0977__href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br
clear="none">
Sent: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 08:06:17 -0400 (EDT)<br
clear="none">
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let
the Resurrection Begin!<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Dean's message remind me that I need to report on my
progress.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Despite rain, cold, and competing responsibilities, the A
is in my driveway. I suspect that the distributor will be
the least of my worries.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Priorities:<br clear="none">
-Unstick the right brake. In order to get the tractor off
the trailer, I had to pull the brake shaft out of the
drive housing. The adjuster, at the least, is stuck.
Unfortunately, the disassembly process requires a working
adjuster (according to the book). I am soaking it with
penetrant and waiting on some dry weather to coincide with
being off work. since there is virtually no gap between
the brake unit/backing plate and the drum with no other
provision made for loosening the shoes, I am not sure how
I will get the unit/shoes out of the drum. I wish I could
see inside.<br clear="none">
-Old gas. The tractor must have sat for two years with
gas in the carb. Opening the drain cock and turning on
the valve at the sediment bowl gives me just a drip--a
varnish-smelling drip. The sediment bowl is new. I am
going to start taking pieces apart till I find the
blockage. If I am unexpectedly blessed, it will be in the
line or one of the valves. It could be crap in the tank,
but I don't think so as fuel seems to flow into the
sediment bowl OK. I dread trying to take the carb apart
because of the real possibility of breaking off the stem
inside the carb bowl. I am told it ran not long ago . . .
. The definition of "long" is somewhat amorphous.<br
clear="none">
-Clean up all the electrical connections. Everything is
there and in place, including a new generator belt and
complete wiring and connections. Most of the connections
are corroded, however, and will need cleaning. The
battery needs to come out, and a new ground strap needs to
be installed--the current replacement is both too small
and wrongly mounted. It should be bolted tot he case at
the seat/battery box mount but is only bolted to the box
itself.<br clear="none">
-Check all fluids. Quick inspection reveals no coolant in
the system. I haven't checked the oil or drive fluid yet,
and I first need to drain the bottom of the crankcase and
final drive of any condensation/leakage.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Plusses include straight sheet metal, brand new front
tires, complete condition, and evidence of maintenance and
minimal wear. The paint is only a few years old and
already fading, but the job is thorough if not showy. The
rear ties are Goodyear Sure Grip Diamonds, but they are in
very poor shape from dry rot. I think I can brush hog
with them--they hold air--but I hesitate to plow. At
least the rear wheels (cast) are in very good shape--not a
hint of fluid weight rot.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Thanks again for all the info so far, and I will keep the
list informed!<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
The "original" Steve Allen<br clear="none">
Middle -o'-Nowhere, MO with a 2nd JD A (670,xxx).<br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
----- Original Message -----<br clear="none">
Message: 9<br clear="none">
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 10:47:25 -0700<br clear="none">
From: <<a shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:deanvp@att.net"
rel="noopener noreferrer"
removedlink__60cfec2a-f990-4c74-a9fa-336fec0f0977__href="mailto:deanvp@att.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">deanvp@att.net</a>><br
clear="none">
To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"<br
clear="none">
<<a shape="rect"
ymailto="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
rel="noopener noreferrer"
removedlink__60cfec2a-f990-4c74-a9fa-336fec0f0977__href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>><br
clear="none">
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto<br
clear="none">
Message-ID:
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:007301d5fbba$f54d2460$dfe76d20$@att.net"><007301d5fbba$f54d2460$dfe76d20$@att.net></a><br
clear="none">
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Our Show is over so I can now get back to this. All JD Two
Cylinder tractors with batteries left the factory with a
positive ground system. Whether the tractor is still
configured that way is a crap shoot. I haven?t looked at
Pertronix systems for years so I am completely out of
date. Early on they did not produce Positive ground
systems for the JD tractors. In those days in order to use
their Electronic ignition systems the tractor had to be
converted to a negative ground system. If they are
producing positive ground systems now that is good news.
But ?. Using their web site to find an applicable system
for a JD Model A is an extreme exercise in futility. I
would suggest contacting the owner of <a shape="rect"
target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"
removedlink__60cfec2a-f990-4c74-a9fa-336fec0f0977__href="https://brillman.com/"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://brillman.com/ </a>to get
an up to date picture of what might be available from
Pertronix for your particular Electronic Ignition
requirement.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
However, a properly repaired Magneto or Distributor will
work just fine on your JD A. For Magneto parts and real
kneadable information I like working with <a shape="rect"
target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"
removedlink__60cfec2a-f990-4c74-a9fa-336fec0f0977__href="http://www.magnetoparts.com/index.html"
moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.magnetoparts.com/index.html
</a> Bill is an Electrical Engineer that does his Magneto
stuff as a side business. Evenings and weekends. <br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Dean VP<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Apache Junction, AZ<br clear="none">
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