[AT] Cub - Update

Mon Jul 6 09:41:53 PDT 2020

Thanks Brian, that's also very helpful!

SO

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 8:33 AM Brian Lesh <lesh at kci.net> wrote:

> Usually the sickle bar is adjustable. Guards angled up so it will ride
> over things.  Guards angled down to get under alfalfa thats already cut
> when not taking a full swath.  Flat is a compromise.
>
> Takes a good sharp sickle mower to cut grass.  Wore out old ones just plug
> up and slip the belts.  I use one to cut ditch banks and Kochia that gets
> out of control.
>
> Dad had a 5 ft. belly mount on a Allis Chalmers C.    Always told me to
> cut hay  idling in 3rd gear.   He said faster rpms in 2nd would shake the
> radiator apart.   He could mount that mower in 30 min.  cut 15 acres of
> alfalfa, take the mower off and hook it to the rake the next morning.  All
> in a days work.
>
> Brian CO
> On 7/6/2020 4:09 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>
> I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going to be some fun with
> experimentation.  I keep about 3 acres of our 15 mowed; the rest is forest
> and wetlands.  I have a Alway-turn for the lawn-like areas, and a DR Brush
> mower (mini walk-behind bushhog) for the coarse areas.  I'm told some of
> this property was cow pasture several decades ago.  The house was built in
> 1990, and when we purchased in 2002, the old pastureland had disappeared
> under heavy overgrowth of the finest invasives New England has to offer:
> autumn olive & multiflora rose, that seem to like to grow together in
> clumps, plus bittersweet, poison ivy, and wild grape.  We've been slowly
> clearing bit by bit ever since, and as soon as a patch of ground is opened
> up, grasses magically re-appear.  This is how I end up with 3 acres that
> now have to be clipped or the invasives will return.  Nothing is really
> flat, but then again we don't have serious slopes either.  Rocks, yes,
> multitudes.  They're generally of the "tip of the iceberg" variety,
> appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a couple inches.  I
> know the location intimately of every single one that interferes with a
> mower.  I think some of the coarse areas may work for the sickle.  I
> suppose the guards will ride up and over those flattish rocks, seems that
> is the intent of the design.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:27 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Based on what you have described, well worth the asking price for my area.
>> If I wanted it, I wouldn't hesitate to bring it home. We all know old
>> tractors leak fluids and most of us look the other way.  It could start
>> leaking everywhere once you use it, then it may be just fine. Sounds like
>> just like routine old tractor stuff to me. That is a very hand machine with
>> the mower on it.
>>
>> Good luck!!
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>> On 7/5/2020 11:46 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>
>> Yesterday, I traveled over to take a look at this Cub that's still trying
>> to find its way into my barn.  I brought along a checklist that I put
>> together from all the inputs from helpful ATIS folks who responded to my
>> previous Cub note.
>>
>> Starting off with the things that might be trouble spots.  Front bolster
>> freeze crack.  See attached pic.  Now if that's not a repair, I don't know
>> what is.  It is holding fine.  The drain pan under the front axle (if you
>> recall the image I attached in the previous note) is there to catch fluid
>> from a leaking steering gear.  In general, it seems to be having minor
>> issues holding on to all of its lubricants.  Steering gear is really the
>> only thing warranting a catch pan, but it's just a little weepy pretty much
>> everywhere - with the possible exception of the front main seal which is
>> dry as near as I can tell.  Damp around the whole hydraulic pump, oil
>> pan/rear main, shifter, PTO.
>>
>> I was also warned about the PTO pulley, and indeed it is rather loose on
>> the PTO shaft.  I could use a bit more detail, but I am assuming it's a
>> spot worth mentioning because the shaft gets abused and the only decent fix
>> is replacement.  True?
>>
>> On the upsides.  No cracks/damage in areas others mentioned:  front
>> spindles, cylinder head, front ears on block.  Good compression judging by
>> feel from hand crank.  Pulled plugs, all four nice and even, tan/gray.
>> Engine oil is down towards low on dipstick, but OK, and it looks clean-ish,
>> "normal" for partly used motor oil.  No evidence the hydraulic pump is
>> dumping fluid into the crankcase.  Did not attempt to start it up.  I can
>> feel clutch engagement point by rocking it, seems OK.  Ditto both brakes.
>>
>> S/N is 101886 which I have not run down yet but sure to find it is a 1950
>> based on the casting date codes (one Nov '49 and two others Feb '50)
>>
>> I think I mentioned previously the owner hit a rock with it.  I learned a
>> bit more.  It's a prominent rock in the field he used to mow, and he
>> sheepishly admitted he knew exactly where that rock was, and can't really
>> explain how it happened.  He was age 79 at that time (3 years ago) and
>> afterward his wife decided he didn't need to mow that field any more.  The
>> flywheel guard for the mower is bent in a way that's consistent with
>> hitting a rock of a certain size.  If I understood correctly (owner has a
>> fairly heavy German accent) the tractor might have actually been perched
>> atop said rock with one or more wheels off the ground, which is really what
>> got his wife's attention.  She's German too, and he said her answer was
>> "NEIN".  He's in no great rush to sell, but he also has zero interest in
>> dealing with tire-kickers and scam-artists on Craigslist, and he's quite
>> well-off, isn't looking for a sucker to give him top dollar.  More along
>> the lines of finding a good home for it.
>>
>> I am pretty sure I can get it in the neighborhood of $1200 which is on
>> the low side relative to the ranges we've been talking about, and really
>> quite low here in the Northeast where for whatever reason the Cub value are
>> a bit higher.  So it's really just a matter of closing the deal and hooking
>> up the borrowed trailer and making the 150 mile round trip.
>>
>> SO
>>
>>
>>
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