[AT] Cub - Update

Mon Jul 6 12:01:00 PDT 2020

Steve:  You will have to match up your sickle sections by the hole 
spread and the size, but here is where I order all my cutting parts 
from.  I would suggest you get under serrated sections as you can 
sharpen out the chipped spots out of them and they then sort of self 
sharpen..   I cut  some very heavy stuff with my sickle swather.  You 
can't hardly find ledger plates now, so a complete guard is the way I 
go.  If you need anything getting it working let me know.  I have not 
riveted a section in 20 years...
Cecil

On 7/6/2020 5:09 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going to be some fun with 
> experimentation.  I keep about 3 acres of our 15 mowed; the rest is 
> forest and wetlands.  I have a zero-turn for the lawn-like areas, and 
> a DR Brush mower (mini walk-behind bushhog) for the coarse areas.  I'm 
> told some of this property was cow pasture several decades ago.  The 
> house was built in 1990, and when we purchased in 2002, the old 
> pastureland had disappeared under heavy overgrowth of the finest 
> invasives New England has to offer:  autumn olive & multiflora rose, 
> that seem to like to grow together in clumps, plus bittersweet, poison 
> ivy, and wild grape.  We've been slowly clearing bit by bit ever 
> since, and as soon as a patch of ground is opened up, grasses 
> magically re-appear.  This is how I end up with 3 acres that now have 
> to be clipped or the invasives will return.  Nothing is really flat, 
> but then again we don't have serious slopes either.  Rocks, yes, 
> multitudes. They're generally of the "tip of the iceberg" variety, 
> appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a couple inches.  
> I know the location intimately of every single one that interferes 
> with a mower.  I think some of the coarse areas may work for the 
> sickle.  I suppose the guards will ride up and over those flattish 
> rocks, seems that is the intent of the design.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:27 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com 
> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     Based on what you have described, well worth the asking price for
>     my area.
>     If I wanted it, I wouldn't hesitate to bring it home. We all know
>     old tractors leak fluids and most of us look the other way.  It
>     could start leaking everywhere once you use it, then it may be
>     just fine. Sounds like just like routine old tractor stuff to me.
>     That is a very hand machine with the mower on it.
>
>     Good luck!!
>
>     John Hall
>
>     On 7/5/2020 11:46 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>     Yesterday, I traveled over to take a look at this Cub that's
>>     still trying to find its way into my barn.  I brought along a
>>     checklist that I put together from all the inputs from helpful
>>     ATIS folks who responded to my previous Cub note.
>>
>>     Starting off with the things that might be trouble spots.  Front
>>     bolster freeze crack.  See attached pic.  Now if that's not a
>>     repair, I don't know what is.  It is holding fine.  The drain pan
>>     under the front axle (if you recall the image I attached in the
>>     previous note) is there to catch fluid from a leaking steering
>>     gear.  In general, it seems to be having minor issues holding on
>>     to all of its lubricants.  Steering gear is really the only thing
>>     warranting a catch pan, but it's just a little weepy pretty much
>>     everywhere - with the possible exception of the front main seal
>>     which is dry as near as I can tell.  Damp around the whole
>>     hydraulic pump, oil pan/rear main, shifter, PTO.
>>
>>     I was also warned about the PTO pulley, and indeed it is rather
>>     loose on the PTO shaft.  I could use a bit more detail, but I am
>>     assuming it's a spot worth mentioning because the shaft gets
>>     abused and the only decent fix is replacement.  True?
>>
>>     On the upsides.  No cracks/damage in areas others mentioned: 
>>     front spindles, cylinder head, front ears on block.  Good
>>     compression judging by feel from hand crank.  Pulled plugs, all
>>     four nice and even, tan/gray.  Engine oil is down towards low on
>>     dipstick, but OK, and it looks clean-ish, "normal" for partly
>>     used motor oil.  No evidence the hydraulic pump is dumping fluid
>>     into the crankcase. Did not attempt to start it up.  I can feel
>>     clutch engagement point by rocking it, seems OK.  Ditto both brakes.
>>
>>     S/N is 101886 which I have not run down yet but sure to find it
>>     is a 1950 based on the casting date codes (one Nov '49 and two
>>     others Feb '50)
>>
>>     I think I mentioned previously the owner hit a rock with it.  I
>>     learned a bit more.  It's a prominent rock in the field he used
>>     to mow, and he sheepishly admitted he knew exactly where that
>>     rock was, and can't really explain how it happened.  He was age
>>     79 at that time (3 years ago) and afterward his wife decided he
>>     didn't need to mow that field any more.  The flywheel guard for
>>     the mower is bent in a way that's consistent with hitting a rock
>>     of a certain size.  If I understood correctly (owner has a fairly
>>     heavy German accent) the tractor might have actually been perched
>>     atop said rock with one or more wheels off the ground, which is
>>     really what got his wife's attention.  She's German too, and he
>>     said her answer was "NEIN".  He's in no great rush to sell, but
>>     he also has zero interest in dealing with tire-kickers and
>>     scam-artists on Craigslist, and he's quite well-off, isn't
>>     looking for a sucker to give him top dollar.  More along the
>>     lines of finding a good home for it.
>>
>>     I am pretty sure I can get it in the neighborhood of $1200 which
>>     is on the low side relative to the ranges we've been talking
>>     about, and really quite low here in the Northeast where for
>>     whatever reason the Cub value are a bit higher.  So it's really
>>     just a matter of closing the deal and hooking up the borrowed
>>     trailer and making the 150 mile round trip.
>>
>>     SO
>>
>>
>>
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