[AT] Cub - Update

Brian Lesh lesh at kci.net
Mon Jul 6 05:32:55 PDT 2020 

Usually the sickle bar is adjustable. Guards angled up so it will ride 
over things.  Guards angled down to get under alfalfa thats already cut 
when not taking a full swath.  Flat is a compromise.

Takes a good sharp sickle mower to cut grass.  Wore out old ones just 
plug up and slip the belts.  I use one to cut ditch banks and Kochia 
that gets out of control.

Dad had a 5 ft. belly mount on a Allis Chalmers C.    Always told me to 
cut hay  idling in 3rd gear.   He said faster rpms in 2nd would shake 
the radiator apart.   He could mount that mower in 30 min.  cut 15 acres 
of alfalfa, take the mower off and hook it to the rake the next 
morning.  All in a days work.

Brian CO

On 7/6/2020 4:09 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going to be some fun with 
> experimentation.  I keep about 3 acres of our 15 mowed; the rest is 
> forest and wetlands.  I have a Alway-turn for the lawn-like areas, and 
> a DR Brush mower (mini walk-behind bushhog) for the coarse areas.  I'm 
> told some of this property was cow pasture several decades ago.  The 
> house was built in 1990, and when we purchased in 2002, the old 
> pastureland had disappeared under heavy overgrowth of the finest 
> invasives New England has to offer:  autumn olive & multiflora rose, 
> that seem to like to grow together in clumps, plus bittersweet, poison 
> ivy, and wild grape.  We've been slowly clearing bit by bit ever 
> since, and as soon as a patch of ground is opened up, grasses 
> magically re-appear.  This is how I end up with 3 acres that now have 
> to be clipped or the invasives will return.  Nothing is really flat, 
> but then again we don't have serious slopes either.  Rocks, yes, 
> multitudes. They're generally of the "tip of the iceberg" variety, 
> appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a couple inches.  
> I know the location intimately of every single one that interferes 
> with a mower.  I think some of the coarse areas may work for the 
> sickle.  I suppose the guards will ride up and over those flattish 
> rocks, seems that is the intent of the design.
>
> SO
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:27 PM John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com 
> <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     Based on what you have described, well worth the asking price for
>     my area.
>     If I wanted it, I wouldn't hesitate to bring it home. We all know
>     old tractors leak fluids and most of us look the other way.  It
>     could start leaking everywhere once you use it, then it may be
>     just fine. Sounds like just like routine old tractor stuff to me.
>     That is a very hand machine with the mower on it.
>
>     Good luck!!
>
>     John Hall
>
>     On 7/5/2020 11:46 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>     Yesterday, I traveled over to take a look at this Cub that's
>>     still trying to find its way into my barn.  I brought along a
>>     checklist that I put together from all the inputs from helpful
>>     ATIS folks who responded to my previous Cub note.
>>
>>     Starting off with the things that might be trouble spots.  Front
>>     bolster freeze crack.  See attached pic.  Now if that's not a
>>     repair, I don't know what is.  It is holding fine.  The drain pan
>>     under the front axle (if you recall the image I attached in the
>>     previous note) is there to catch fluid from a leaking steering
>>     gear.  In general, it seems to be having minor issues holding on
>>     to all of its lubricants.  Steering gear is really the only thing
>>     warranting a catch pan, but it's just a little weepy pretty much
>>     everywhere - with the possible exception of the front main seal
>>     which is dry as near as I can tell.  Damp around the whole
>>     hydraulic pump, oil pan/rear main, shifter, PTO.
>>
>>     I was also warned about the PTO pulley, and indeed it is rather
>>     loose on the PTO shaft.  I could use a bit more detail, but I am
>>     assuming it's a spot worth mentioning because the shaft gets
>>     abused and the only decent fix is replacement.  True?
>>
>>     On the upsides.  No cracks/damage in areas others mentioned: 
>>     front spindles, cylinder head, front ears on block.  Good
>>     compression judging by feel from hand crank.  Pulled plugs, all
>>     four nice and even, tan/gray.  Engine oil is down towards low on
>>     dipstick, but OK, and it looks clean-ish, "normal" for partly
>>     used motor oil.  No evidence the hydraulic pump is dumping fluid
>>     into the crankcase. Did not attempt to start it up.  I can feel
>>     clutch engagement point by rocking it, seems OK.  Ditto both brakes.
>>
>>     S/N is 101886 which I have not run down yet but sure to find it
>>     is a 1950 based on the casting date codes (one Nov '49 and two
>>     others Feb '50)
>>
>>     I think I mentioned previously the owner hit a rock with it.  I
>>     learned a bit more.  It's a prominent rock in the field he used
>>     to mow, and he sheepishly admitted he knew exactly where that
>>     rock was, and can't really explain how it happened.  He was age
>>     79 at that time (3 years ago) and afterward his wife decided he
>>     didn't need to mow that field any more.  The flywheel guard for
>>     the mower is bent in a way that's consistent with hitting a rock
>>     of a certain size.  If I understood correctly (owner has a fairly
>>     heavy German accent) the tractor might have actually been perched
>>     atop said rock with one or more wheels off the ground, which is
>>     really what got his wife's attention.  She's German too, and he
>>     said her answer was "NEIN".  He's in no great rush to sell, but
>>     he also has zero interest in dealing with tire-kickers and
>>     scam-artists on Craigslist, and he's quite well-off, isn't
>>     looking for a sucker to give him top dollar.  More along the
>>     lines of finding a good home for it.
>>
>>     I am pretty sure I can get it in the neighborhood of $1200 which
>>     is on the low side relative to the ranges we've been talking
>>     about, and really quite low here in the Northeast where for
>>     whatever reason the Cub value are a bit higher.  So it's really
>>     just a matter of closing the deal and hooking up the borrowed
>>     trailer and making the 150 mile round trip.
>>
>>     SO
>>
>>
>>
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