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<p>Usually the sickle bar is adjustable. Guards angled up so it will
ride over things. Guards angled down to get under alfalfa thats
already cut when not taking a full swath. Flat is a compromise.</p>
<p>Takes a good sharp sickle mower to cut grass. Wore out old ones
just plug up and slip the belts. I use one to cut ditch banks and
Kochia that gets out of control.</p>
<p>Dad had a 5 ft. belly mount on a Allis Chalmers C. Always told
me to cut hay idling in 3rd gear. He said faster rpms in 2nd
would shake the radiator apart. He could mount that mower in 30
min. cut 15 acres of alfalfa, take the mower off and hook it to
the rake the next morning. All in a days work.<br>
</p>
<p>Brian CO<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/6/2020 4:09 AM, Stephen Offiler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAP6upci9SbAyxjQSEgprW6EebE5f7WbMORDY+=pWwb5-bUkjkw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going
to be some fun with experimentation. I keep about 3 acres of
our 15 mowed; the rest is forest and wetlands. I have a
Alway-turn for the lawn-like areas, and a DR Brush mower (mini
walk-behind bushhog) for the coarse areas. I'm told some of
this property was cow pasture several decades ago. The house
was built in 1990, and when we purchased in 2002, the old
pastureland had disappeared under heavy overgrowth of the
finest invasives New England has to offer: autumn olive &
multiflora rose, that seem to like to grow together in clumps,
plus bittersweet, poison ivy, and wild grape. We've been
slowly clearing bit by bit ever since, and as soon as a patch
of ground is opened up, grasses magically re-appear. This is
how I end up with 3 acres that now have to be clipped or the
invasives will return. Nothing is really flat, but then again
we don't have serious slopes either. Rocks, yes, multitudes.
They're generally of the "tip of the iceberg" variety,
appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a couple
inches. I know the location intimately of every single one
that interferes with a mower. I think some of the coarse
areas may work for the sickle. I suppose the guards will ride
up and over those flattish rocks, seems that is the intent of
the design. </div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div>SO</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 2:27
PM John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Based on what you have described, well worth the
asking price for my area.<br>
If I wanted it, I wouldn't hesitate to bring it home. We
all know old tractors leak fluids and most of us look the
other way. It could start leaking everywhere once you use
it, then it may be just fine. Sounds like just like
routine old tractor stuff to me. That is a very hand
machine with the mower on it.<br>
<br>
Good luck!!<br>
<br>
John Hall<br>
<br>
<div>On 7/5/2020 11:46 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Yesterday, I traveled over to take a look
at this Cub that's still trying to find its way into
my barn. I brought along a checklist that I put
together from all the inputs from helpful ATIS folks
who responded to my previous Cub note.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Starting off with the things that might be
trouble spots. Front bolster freeze crack. See
attached pic. Now if that's not a repair, I don't
know what is. It is holding fine. The drain pan
under the front axle (if you recall the image I
attached in the previous note) is there to catch
fluid from a leaking steering gear. In general, it
seems to be having minor issues holding on to all of
its lubricants. Steering gear is really the
only thing warranting a catch pan, but it's just a
little weepy pretty much everywhere - with the
possible exception of the front main seal which is
dry as near as I can tell. Damp around the whole
hydraulic pump, oil pan/rear main, shifter, PTO.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I was also warned about the PTO pulley, and
indeed it is rather loose on the PTO shaft. I could
use a bit more detail, but I am assuming it's a spot
worth mentioning because the shaft gets abused and
the only decent fix is replacement. True?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On the upsides. No cracks/damage in areas others
mentioned: front spindles, cylinder head, front
ears on block. Good compression judging by feel
from hand crank. Pulled plugs, all four nice and
even, tan/gray. Engine oil is down towards low on
dipstick, but OK, and it looks clean-ish, "normal"
for partly used motor oil. No evidence the
hydraulic pump is dumping fluid into the crankcase.
Did not attempt to start it up. I can feel clutch
engagement point by rocking it, seems OK. Ditto
both brakes. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>S/N is 101886 which I have not run down yet but
sure to find it is a 1950 based on the casting date
codes (one Nov '49 and two others Feb '50)</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I think I mentioned previously the owner hit a
rock with it. I learned a bit more. It's a
prominent rock in the field he used to mow, and he
sheepishly admitted he knew exactly where that rock
was, and can't really explain how it happened. He
was age 79 at that time (3 years ago) and afterward
his wife decided he didn't need to mow that field
any more. The flywheel guard for the mower is bent
in a way that's consistent with hitting a rock of a
certain size. If I understood correctly (owner has
a fairly heavy German accent) the tractor might have
actually been perched atop said rock with one or
more wheels off the ground, which is really what got
his wife's attention. She's German too, and he said
her answer was "NEIN". He's in no great rush to
sell, but he also has zero interest in dealing with
tire-kickers and scam-artists on Craigslist, and
he's quite well-off, isn't looking for a sucker
to give him top dollar. More along the lines of
finding a good home for it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I am pretty sure I can get it in the neighborhood
of $1200 which is on the low side relative to the
ranges we've been talking about, and really quite
low here in the Northeast where for whatever reason
the Cub value are a bit higher. So it's really just
a matter of closing the deal and hooking up the
borrowed trailer and making the 150 mile round trip.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>SO</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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