[AT] tractor hauler a pain to install headlights.

Jim Becker mr.jebecker at gmail.com
Thu Jan 16 09:05:05 PST 2020


My truck is an ‘04 Silverado.  Changing the bulbs is easy.  You pull a pin then the whole light assembly lifts/wiggles out to where you can reach the back side.  I found it hard to believe they made THAT BIG of a step backwards in the redesign.  So I looked at a couple youtube videos on how to change a bulb in a 2011 Silverado.  If you google it, you can find plenty of them.  Nobody needed a 4-post lift to do it.  Here is one of them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgSlGAVP3_M
The grille is held with some screws a the top and few spring clips at the bottom (reached behind the grille from the top).  The headlamp assembly is then held by 3 bolts, 2 on top and one you reach through the wheel well after pulling the inner fender back.

If you are just changing the bulbs, not replacing the assembly, none of that is required.  You just reach the bulbs from the back.  The passenger side requires removing the air cleaner.  The driver side may require removing the battery.  The video didn’t say to remove it, but showed it removed.  (maybe to be able to get pictures?).

One video had a truck with a grille guard that drew no comments in the video.  Maybe an added aftermarket cow catcher or bulldozer blade would add complications.  If so, it is hardly the truck’s fault.

Sometimes a task is just difficult because the person doing it makes it difficult.

Jim Becker

From: Stephen Offiler 
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2020 4:14 AM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group 
Subject: Re: [AT] tractor hauler a pain to install headlights.

Mostly it's because they design for minimum component cost plus minimum assembly labor cost, period.  That's what management tells them to do, whether or not they grew up with greasy fingernails and rebuild engines on weekends, or if they live in their parents' basement and play video games the other 16 hours of the day. 

SO

On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 11:38 PM Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:

  There is less than a 1/4 in between the bumper and the grill.  If there was another 1/4in, I could slip a 1/4in  universal socket with a long extension and get the grill out.   Part of this is due to the cad programs.  The other part is very few engineers have any clue as to how to repair the vehicle they are designing...   I guess it could be attributed to the absence of high school shop classes........  When I get the barn cleaned out and my 4post lift in there, I will get it raised up and change the lights.


  Cecil


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