[AT] [External] New Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps

Jim Becker mr.jebecker at gmail.com
Fri Dec 4 21:40:28 PST 2020


The tower type clamps work OK with new clamps and new hoses.  If they are in pretty good shape and the hose has previously been installed, they can work OK.  It helps to position the clamp to fit the old indentations in the hose.  It is one thing to just put some squeeze on the old hose.  It is another to expect the clamp to squeeze it into a totally different shape.

The worst thing about them is removing them if they are rusty.  You can help yourself by holding the tower with a pair of Channel Locks so it doesn’t twist out of line.  Keep I mind that there isn’t much size range to any given clamp.  You have to have the size right.

Jim Becker

From: Gunnells, Brad R 
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2020 9:57 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group 
Subject: Re: [AT] [External] New Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps

As others have said, a new clamp probably works more reliably than an old one that's either rusty or slightly bent. Add in some new flexible hose and a good clean mating surface and I'm sure you'd be just fine.

Kind of reminds me of when Ford came out with the new "cab forward" design in '99 for the Super Duty trucks. They are designed to unplug a harness and lift the body off the chassis for major repairs. Well, that's great when they're new, but give them 10, 20, 30 years in the rust belt and see how those concepts work out.

Brad


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Dean VP <deanvp at att.net>
Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 7:42 PM
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: [External] [AT] New Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps 

This is going to be humorous to some of you.  This is a real nit-picky thing
that only the “correct police” would discuss.  When I took my 1935 JD B
apart to get to the Head I had to remove the upper and lower water pipes
that go from the Cylinder Block and Head to the Radiator. There are two
rubber hose 2 ¾” OD sections of around 4” to 5”  that have to be removed to
get the metal pipes out. Kind of a PITA if the hoses are old.   Anyway while
removing the rubber sections that were held in place by the common used
screw band clamps used all over the place today. So when I removed them I
made a mental mote to myself. that when I had time to look up in the Parts
Catalog what type of hose clamp was used in the tractor originally. I did
know the type we use today was not right. My guess was the two wire type
were used. Wrong. Turns out that Wittek Tower Hose Clamps were used. #40 or
FBA 40 2 3/4”  I’ve run into these a few times when parting out a tractor
and found them next to impossible to work with.  I/H used them as well in
this era. One can still get these from Steiner Tractor Parts:

https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS642?crawlparam&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzfDwj_S07
QIVQ928Ch0hWQC-EAEYASABEgIVtPD_BwE

or

https://tinyurl.com/y6jcvon5

So what hose clamp am I going to use when I put the 1935 B back together? I
do know what was on it, the current SS screw band,  is incorrect even to an
casual observer.   Before I learned all this I had thought about just using
the two wire and screw setup that was used in years past as well but wasn’t
original on the 1935B.  Intuitively the Tower Hose Clamps look like they may
be a PITA since they have limited adjustment range.   So here is my
question.  I would use the Tower type if and only if they aren’t a real PITA
to install and keep the connections from leaking. If they are, I’ll just go
to the two wire hose clamps because I know they work well.  THE QUESTION:
Anyone out there in ATIS land have experience with the Tower type hose
clamps that would be willing to share their knowledge on the subject at
hand.  Comments and suggestions are encouraged and welcomed.


Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ
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