[AT] [External] New Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps

[Stephen Offiler]

Glad that Jim mentioned the twist, because that's been my experience on the
old ones.  Sometimes they're in positions where it's hard to get some
pliers on them to fight the twist, and your day just unravels from that
point.

Quick rant on a slightly different topic:  Modern spiral-type hose clamps
that claim to be stainless steel.  I've run into some where the band is
stainless but the worm-screw is plain steel.  In fact, the lower radiator
hose on my old '96 F-250 was held by such a clamp.  One day, getting rid of
trash at the local transfer station, suddenly the truck is sitting in a sea
of coolant.  It dumps out fast when that big hose disconnects itself.  The
non-stainless worm screw had rusted away and released the band.  While
repairing it, I discovered you could ask for "ALL Stainless" clamps at the
local NAPA and those words appear on the package.

SO

On Sat, Dec 5, 2020 at 12:40 AM Jim Becker <mr.jebecker at gmail.com> wrote:

> The tower type clamps work OK with new clamps and new hoses.  If they are
> in pretty good shape and the hose has previously been installed, they can
> work OK.  It helps to position the clamp to fit the old indentations in the
> hose.  It is one thing to just put some squeeze on the old hose.  It is
> another to expect the clamp to squeeze it into a totally different shape.
>
> The worst thing about them is removing them if they are rusty.  You can
> help yourself by holding the tower with a pair of Channel Locks so it
> doesn’t twist out of line.  Keep I mind that there isn’t much size range to
> any given clamp.  You have to have the size right.
>
> Jim Becker
>
> *From:* Gunnells, Brad R
> *Sent:* Friday, December 04, 2020 9:57 PM
> *To:* Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] [External] New Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps
>
> As others have said, a new clamp probably works more reliably than an old
> one that's either rusty or slightly bent. Add in some new flexible hose and
> a good clean mating surface and I'm sure you'd be just fine.
>
> Kind of reminds me of when Ford came out with the new "cab forward" design
> in '99 for the Super Duty trucks. They are designed to unplug a harness and
> lift the body off the chassis for major repairs. Well, that's great when
> they're new, but give them 10, 20, 30 years in the rust belt and see how
> those concepts work out.
>
> Brad
> ------------------------------
> *From:* AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Dean VP <
> deanvp at att.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, December 4, 2020 7:42 PM
> *To:* 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <
> at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> *Subject:* [External] [AT] New Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps
>
> This is going to be humorous to some of you.  This is a real nit-picky
> thing
> that only the “correct police” would discuss.  When I took my 1935 JD B
> apart to get to the Head I had to remove the upper and lower water pipes
> that go from the Cylinder Block and Head to the Radiator. There are two
> rubber hose 2 ¾” OD sections of around 4” to 5”  that have to be removed to
> get the metal pipes out. Kind of a PITA if the hoses are old.   Anyway
> while
> removing the rubber sections that were held in place by the common used
> screw band clamps used all over the place today. So when I removed them I
> made a mental mote to myself. that when I had time to look up in the Parts
> Catalog what type of hose clamp was used in the tractor originally. I did
> know the type we use today was not right. My guess was the two wire type
> were used. Wrong. Turns out that Wittek Tower Hose Clamps were used. #40 or
> FBA 40 2 3/4”  I’ve run into these a few times when parting out a tractor
> and found them next to impossible to work with.  I/H used them as well in
> this era. One can still get these from Steiner Tractor Parts:
>
>
> https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS642?crawlparam&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzfDwj_S07
> QIVQ928Ch0hWQC-EAEYASABEgIVtPD_BwE
>
> or
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y6jcvon5
>
> So what hose clamp am I going to use when I put the 1935 B back together? I
> do know what was on it, the current SS screw band,  is incorrect even to an
> casual observer.   Before I learned all this I had thought about just using
> the two wire and screw setup that was used in years past as well but wasn’t
> original on the 1935B.  Intuitively the Tower Hose Clamps look like they
> may
> be a PITA since they have limited adjustment range.   So here is my
> question.  I would use the Tower type if and only if they aren’t a real
> PITA
> to install and keep the connections from leaking. If they are, I’ll just go
> to the two wire hose clamps because I know they work well.  THE QUESTION:
> Anyone out there in ATIS land have experience with the Tower type hose
> clamps that would be willing to share their knowledge on the subject at
> hand.  Comments and suggestions are encouraged and welcomed.
>
>
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
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