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<DIV>The tower type clamps work OK with new clamps and new hoses. If they
are in pretty good shape and the hose has previously been installed, they can
work OK. It helps to position the clamp to fit the old indentations in the
hose. It is one thing to just put some squeeze on the old hose. It
is another to expect the clamp to squeeze it into a totally different
shape.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The worst thing about them is removing them if they are rusty. You
can help yourself by holding the tower with a pair of Channel Locks so it
doesn’t twist out of line. Keep I mind that there isn’t much size range to
any given clamp. You have to have the size right.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jim Becker</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=brad-gunnells@uiowa.edu>Gunnells, Brad R</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, December 04, 2020 9:57 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=at@lists.antique-tractor.com>Antique Tractor Email
Discussion Group</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [AT] [External] New Subject -- Tower Hose
Clamps</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">As
others have said, a new clamp probably works more reliably than an old one
that's either rusty or slightly bent. Add in some new flexible hose and a good
clean mating surface and I'm sure you'd be just fine.</DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Kind
of reminds me of when Ford came out with the new "cab forward" design in '99 for
the Super Duty trucks. They are designed to unplug a harness and lift the body
off the chassis for major repairs. Well, that's great when they're new, but give
them 10, 20, 30 years in the rust belt and see how those concepts work
out.</DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Brad<BR></DIV>
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<DIV id=divRplyFwdMsg dir=ltr><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt" color=#000000
face="Calibri, sans-serif"><B>From:</B> AT
<at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Dean VP
<deanvp@att.net><BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, December 4, 2020 7:42
PM<BR><B>To:</B> 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'
<at@lists.antique-tractor.com><BR><B>Subject:</B> [External] [AT] New
Subject -- Tower Hose Clamps</FONT>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=BodyFragment><FONT size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt">
<DIV class=PlainText>This is going to be humorous to some of you. This is
a real nit-picky thing<BR>that only the “correct police” would discuss.
When I took my 1935 JD B<BR>apart to get to the Head I had to remove the upper
and lower water pipes<BR>that go from the Cylinder Block and Head to the
Radiator. There are two<BR>rubber hose 2 ¾” OD sections of around 4” to 5”
that have to be removed to<BR>get the metal pipes out. Kind of a PITA if the
hoses are old. Anyway while<BR>removing the rubber sections that
were held in place by the common used<BR>screw band clamps used all over the
place today. So when I removed them I<BR>made a mental mote to myself. that when
I had time to look up in the Parts<BR>Catalog what type of hose clamp was used
in the tractor originally. I did<BR>know the type we use today was not right. My
guess was the two wire type<BR>were used. Wrong. Turns out that Wittek Tower
Hose Clamps were used. #40 or<BR>FBA 40 2 3/4” I’ve run into these a few
times when parting out a tractor<BR>and found them next to impossible to work
with. I/H used them as well in<BR>this era. One can still get these from
Steiner Tractor Parts:<BR><BR><A
href="https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS642?crawlparam&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzfDwj_S07">https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS642?crawlparam&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzfDwj_S07</A><BR>QIVQ928Ch0hWQC-EAEYASABEgIVtPD_BwE<BR><BR>or<BR><BR><A
href="https://tinyurl.com/y6jcvon5">https://tinyurl.com/y6jcvon5</A><BR><BR>So
what hose clamp am I going to use when I put the 1935 B back together? I<BR>do
know what was on it, the current SS screw band, is incorrect even to
an<BR>casual observer. Before I learned all this I had thought about
just using<BR>the two wire and screw setup that was used in years past as well
but wasn’t<BR>original on the 1935B. Intuitively the Tower Hose Clamps
look like they may<BR>be a PITA since they have limited adjustment
range. So here is my<BR>question. I would use the Tower type
if and only if they aren’t a real PITA<BR>to install and keep the connections
from leaking. If they are, I’ll just go<BR>to the two wire hose clamps because I
know they work well. THE QUESTION:<BR>Anyone out there in ATIS land have
experience with the Tower type hose<BR>clamps that would be willing to share
their knowledge on the subject at<BR>hand. Comments and suggestions are
encouraged and welcomed.<BR><BR><BR>Dean VP<BR>Apache Junction,
AZ<BR></DIV></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>