[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!

Yahoo Mail walking_tractor at yahoo.com
Mon Apr 20 08:01:35 PDT 2020


 NEAT IDEA!Thanks Spencer.David
    On Monday, April 20, 2020, 10:26:16 AM EDT, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:  
 
  
Good trick Spencer!!  I guess the newer generation would call  that a Hack!!!  My old mentor would call that his trade secret!!   I sure miss that old guy.  He started out in the Blacksmith shop at 14yrs old.  Had only a 6th grade education, but could make anything run that came on the place.  I had the good fortune to work alongside this fellow when I was 14 also.  I worked with him while going to college until he retired 6 years later. The man was like a Grandfather to me.   I suppose that is why I learned mechanics as well as I did.  
 Cecil
 

 
 On 4/20/2020 9:16 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
  
 
That's a neat trick Spencer!  Archiving that one...
 
 SO  
  On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:45 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
  
It’s a bit of a pain, but try to find a little brass barb that will fit in the drain.   Then attach a clear plastic tube to the barb.    Route the tube upward and secure then open the fuel petcock.  Look at the level of gasoline in the tube.   That level should fall short of the base (actually the bottom of the gasket between the base and bowl) by the exact specification mentioned for your carburetor.
 
 After having dealt with a lot of floats that have  been completely mangled by previous owners, I have found occasionally this is the only measurement that seems to work.
 
 Spencer
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 > On Apr 19, 2020, at 10:27 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
 > 
 > I would pull the drain plug out of the carburetor bowl and stick a wire up it to make sure nothing is blocking the drain.  Then check the flow out of the drain...  If you only get a drip out of the fuel bowl, and the drain hole is clear, then the restriction is between the needle and the sediment bowl.   Remove the gas line from the carburetor and check the flow out of the line...
 > Cecil
 > 
 >> On 4/19/2020 8:57 PM, szabelski at wildblue.net wrote:
 >> Fuel flowing, float not stuck, is the needle valve stuck or dirt where the needle valve is being plugged???
 >> 
 >> Carl
 >> 
 >> ----- Original Message -----
 >> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
 >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
 >> Sent: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
 >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
 >> 
 >> Dean and Cecil,
 >> 
 >> The pic shows the INSIDE of the drum, where the brake shoes run.
 >> 
 >> As for the carb, I have the drain cock open on the carb bowl--that makes no difference.  Also, I replaced the needle-and-seat, and I have verified that they are not stuck closed.  The only way the sediment bowl will fill is if it is loose enough for gas to run out the top of it.  More will run out there than will drip out of the carb.  The fuel line is clear, the screens and gaskets are all new, clean, and in the right places.  That's why I am so confused.
 >> 
 >> While waiting on the new distributor cap and thinking about this fuel headache, my boy and I cut grass today.  Then, we decided to work some more on the '49 A wheels I wrote about last year (I labeled it a '48, but the numbers apparently have been revised to say it is a '49).  Anyway, we took the new electric impact out to the shed to see if it would have any effect on those remaining lug bolts on the wheel I heated, pounded on, and otherwise cussed so long.  Hey, Presto! it spun them all out in a trice.  Literally three minutes, and all were out.
 >> 
 >> Then, I figures, what the hey?  let's try the other wheel.  I had heated it some but not nearly as much.  We got 2 out of the 7.  Tuesday, if my plans hold, we'll get the torch out there and apply more heat and get the others.  Since the tractor is so close to the shed wall, I had to drill a hole in the cedar siding to get the impact on the left side.  Unorthodox, but I was NOT going to try to move the tractor at that point.  I didn't want to have to rebuild my cribbing.
 >> 
 >> Anyway, the weekend has had its challenges and rewards.  I hope the info above helps folks understand the situation with the fuel and the brakes for the '51.
 >> 
 >> Thanks for all the help so far!
 >> 
 >> The "original" Steve Allen
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> 
 >> ----- Original Message -----
 >> Message: 7
 >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:26:11 -0700
 >> From: <deanvp at att.net>
 >> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
 >>    <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
 >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
 >> Message-ID: <019901d61667$3f6aba50$be402ef0$@att.net>
 >> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
 >> 
 >> Steve,
 >> 
 >> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the back side of the face of the drum or not but that particular surface just needs to clean enough to remove  really major surface issues. The only side that is somewhat sensitive is the inside surface of the drum that the brake shoe lining rubs against when activated to stop. .
 >> 
 >> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and slide in their respective holes with very little finger pressure, No friction. These are the parts I put anti-seize grease on to try oi keep them from rusting again but not get grease on the brake shoe surface.   Be somewhat skimpy with the grease but make sure all surfaces of the moving parts have been covered.
 >> 
 >> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the sediment bowl fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and seat is sticking closed.  In a properly sealed system the sediment  bulb will not fill up because the float probably is shutting off fuel flow to the carburetor because that carburetor bowl is probably already full.  Therefore you have an airlock. I usually loosen the carburetor drain a little and let some fuel run out to fill the bowl.  If no fuel comes out of the carburetor fuel bowl then you have a carburetor float that is sticking or a carburetor needle sticking in its seat.  Once some fuel comes out of the carburetor bowl drain the sediment bulb should fill up. Now having that in turn drip or leak when the bulb is full is kind of incongruous since you had an air tight air lock before. Sure its just not residue from when you were filling up the bulb?
 >> 
 >> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get fuel into the carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment bowl to fill by lessening it and the tractor will run ignore the problem temporarily. And I will think on it.   Its been awhile since I've had to deal with a bowl that won't fill.  But I have been there done that.
 >> 
 >> Dean VP
 >> Apache Junction, AZ
 >> 
 >> -----Original Message-----
 >> Message: 8
 >> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:38:39 -0500
 >> From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
 >> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
 >> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
 >> Message-ID: <2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net>
 >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
 >> 
 >> I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside the housing that
 >> would prevent gas from going through.?? I just pull the screen out and
 >> cut the line and install an inline filter.? I don't run any gas engine
 >> without inline filters.
 >> Cecil
 >> 
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